What Color Blue is This? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Adriel · #1 06-06-2017, 12:05 AM

What color blue is this? Have hunted an hour for the answer and no success.

Thank y'all in advance!

sixto · #2 06-06-2017, 02:26 AM

This isn't about that blue or gold dress from a few years ago, is it?

Sixto
83 300SD can be yours
98 E320 wagon

Alec300SD · #3 06-06-2017, 02:54 AM

Looks like 900 Surfblau (Deep Blue)

Here is another photo of a service wagon.

Here is a R107 in 900 Surfblau that closely matches the photo you posted of the service wagon.
Lighting conditions and the background colors that are present can really make a big difference in the percieved color of any object.

Adriel · #4 06-06-2017, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alec300SD

Looks like 900 Surfblau (Deep Blue)

Here is another photo of a service wagon.

Here is a R107 in 900 Surfblau that closely matches the photo you posted of the service wagon.
Lighting conditions and the background colors that are present can really make a big difference in the percieved color of any object.

Hey Alec, thank you so much for the help!

Okay, yes, see what you mean about how much that color changes. Also good point about the background color.

When have narrowed the choices to a few or couple, then will go down to the paint shop and have them mix me a couple aerosols, apply a color, then live with it for a week. Then, if needed, do it again. Just paint and already will have to sand to do the real paint. Yes, not inexpensive to by aerosol, but far less than a gallon of quality paint.

crazy4diesel · #5 06-06-2017, 02:13 PM

If you're not looking to show this car in a concours or something like that, then factory numbered paint might be a waste of money on these old cars. I was looking that route too, but when it came down to approaching $800 for just paint material to do a factory code paint, I decided I'd save around $500 and just use a color that was pretty darn close to factory code, since I am painting the whole car, jambs, engine bay...etc.

In the end, I just ended up custom mixing a color I really like.

Adriel · #6 06-06-2017, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

If you're not looking to show this car in a concours or something like that, then factory numbered paint might be a waste of money on these old cars. I was looking that route too, but when it came down to approaching $800 for just paint material to do a factory code paint, I decided I'd save around $500 and just use a color that was pretty darn close to factory code, since I am painting the whole car, jambs, engine bay...etc.

In the end, I just ended up custom mixing a color I really like.

Thank you for the help, much appreciated!

You get what you pay for.

Would think PPG could come up with something, not like would do Glasurit unless really something special.

For now, looking to fix a the roof and touchup a couple spots of rust before become something major.

Certainly when rebuild the 300TD-T since unorthodox, the two haves are different colors, and certainly never could sell, go ahead and do a color change. Then yes, very good point to just go with something you like. Then could finally have the green color keep wanting (instead been either blue or white).

Can you please help further?

How much paint did it take to do a W123?

How about just the roof?

Thank you again!

crazy4diesel · #7 06-07-2017, 02:21 PM

I bought three gallons of paint, probably only needed two gallons to get very good coverage. But, I wanted a more blue hue to the blue-green I was going for. The one color was called Bright Aqua Pearl, which is a very nice color on it's own, but it flopped more toward green than blue, and I wanted a bit more blue. So, I bought a gallon of a color called Ultra Blue Pearl and mixed it in with the Aqua at a 3:7 ratio. I haven't sprayed the car yet, I'm priming today and tomorrow, then spraying the jambs window frames, and tailgate opening, as well as some touch-up on the hood and inner fenders. I will then mask off the window frames and jambs hood and tailgate, and re-sand the rest, then finally spray color and clear coat. So, I hope to have it all done in about another 10-days.

The amount of paint you need varies by color, and how well it covers. For a wagon, good guestimate is 2-3 gallons for the base coat, primer all depends on if you're going down to metal anywhere, then I'd use an epoxy DTM primer one gallon will do it, followed by a sandable filler primer one to 1.5 gallons should do it, and finally your base coat 2-3 gallons, or color coat if you're doing a one-stage. If you're doing two-stage, you're of course adding clear coat 1.5-2 gallons.

Adriel · #8 06-07-2017, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

I bought three gallons of paint, probably only needed two gallons to get very good coverage. But, I wanted a more blue hue to the blue-green I was going for. The one color was called Bright Aqua Pearl, which is a very nice color on it's own, but it flopped more toward green than blue, and I wanted a bit more blue. So, I bought a gallon of a color called Ultra Blue Pearl and mixed it in with the Aqua at a 3:7 ratio. I haven't sprayed the car yet, I'm priming today and tomorrow, then spraying the jambs window frames, and tailgate opening, as well as some touch-up on the hood and inner fenders. I will then mask off the window frames and jambs hood and tailgate, and re-sand the rest, then finally spray color and clear coat. So, I hope to have it all done in about another 10-days.

The amount of paint you need varies by color, and how well it covers. For a wagon, good guestimate is 2-3 gallons for the base coat, primer all depends on if you're going down to metal anywhere, then I'd use an epoxy DTM primer one gallon will do it, followed by a sandable filler primer one to 1.5 gallons should do it, and finally your base coat 2-3 gallons, or color coat if you're doing a one-stage. If you're doing two-stage, you're of course adding clear coat 1.5-2 gallons.

Wow!

Thank you so very much for replying back with tremendous help, much appreciated!

If do a full paint to something plan to never sell, going to do that mixing of clear into base. So, probably better then with a wagen to go three and worse case, have leftovers for later touchup. Clear is clear, so no need to go over with that, since doesn't vary from batch to batch.

Is it a true pearl?

If so, wouldn't doing the trick with clear be even more important?

Considering all the issues with the 280TE roof and a couple other areas, plus having used good epoxy primer and had the rust come back (on Dad's Chevy beater), will do at least one coat of primer.

Do those sealer primers actually prevent rust from coming back through?

On the Marina Blau Squareback, needs a lot of panels welded in. So, my understanding from prior and this help is:
Etching primer over bare metal
Seam sealer over seams
Gray sealing primer, topped with cheap black color, sanded to 80 until no black
Epoxy primer sanded to 120 (might tint this green to help the green stay and give better visual results)
Base coat/first stage sanded to 240

Interesting mixing your own paint. Did that with house paint for the master suite, as knew what green wanted, but wasn't getting it. Did you already test the new color?

Why do the paint this way "then spraying the jambs window frames, and tailgate opening, as well as some touch-up on the hood and inner fenders. I will then mask off the window frames and jambs hood and tailgate, and re-sand the rest, then finally spray color and clear coat.", instead of paint the whole body at once?

crazy4diesel · #9 06-07-2017, 06:10 PM

Well, it's a true pearl yes, but it's in an opaque base. The first paint job I ever did was a translucent pearl, or candy color, I will NEVER EVER do that again. It's total hell to get the color on without banding or light and dark areas.

You have a number of different questions here, and not all of them are simple answers.

It'd help I have had pics of something you are trying to remedy, and can offer better information. I've done a ton of research into paint, and painting to do my own work, I approached it like I do most things as an investigative writer.

I'm not quite following your order. An etching primer on bare metal used to be the standard, but with DTM epoxy it's better not to use it as the acid in the etching primer doesn't get along well with the epoxy.

I'd weld in your panels, grind the welds smooth, I'd then put a 2-part glazing compound along the weld, and feather it into the panels.

Are you able to keep the car totally from any weather exposure the entire time you are working on it? Mesa, AZ is at least dry so that helps.

Then I'd use an epoxy primer designated at DTM (direct to metal). Right on top of that I'd spray a dark grey or black sandable primer (epoxy primers are not easy to sand).

I'm not sure about "sanded to 80" do you mean 80 grit? If so, I'd say, I would never use 80 grit on anything I am not using that to take the previous paint entirely off.

I never use more rougher than 120 grit, when using factory paint for flattening and leveling.

I've never heard of putting epoxy primer over primer, it's always the undercoat.

I wouldn't use anything rougher than 220 grit to sand primer, especially if you are going to shoot a dark color. I'd then go over the entire surface with 400 grit. Then surface wash with a solvent surface washer, then spray your base color coat.

Why would you mix your color coat with clear? Sometimes people tint slightly the clear coat with a tiny bit of the base coat paint, but I would not do that if there is any pearl or metallic in the color.

Why would you sand your base coat? I would simply shoot the clear coat on the base coat within the topcoat time window suggested by the paint manufacturer. If you do clear coat, two-stage paint, which actually isn't how Surfblau was done at the factory. Surfblau is a single stage paint, with no clear coat from the factory.

You can sand and buff the clear coat if you want a mirror finish.

Adriel · #10 06-07-2017, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Well, it's a true pearl yes, but it's in an opaque base. The first paint job I ever did was a translucent pearl, or candy color, I will NEVER EVER do that again. It's total hell to get the color on without banding or light and dark areas.

You have a number of different questions here, and not all of them are simple answers.

It'd help I have had pics of something you are trying to remedy, and can offer better information. I've done a ton of research into paint, and painting to do my own work, I approached it like I do most things as an investigative writer.

I'm not quite following your order. An etching primer on bare metal used to be the standard, but with DTM epoxy it's better not to use it as the acid in the etching primer doesn't get along well with the epoxy.

I'd weld in your panels, grind the welds smooth, I'd then put a 2-part glazing compound along the weld, and feather it into the panels.

Are you able to keep the car totally from any weather exposure the entire time you are working on it? Mesa, AZ is at least dry so that helps.

Then I'd use an epoxy primer designated at DTM (direct to metal). Right on top of that I'd spray a dark grey or black sandable primer (epoxy primers are not easy to sand).

I'm not sure about "sanded to 80" do you mean 80 grit? If so, I'd say, I would never use 80 grit on anything I am not using that to take the previous paint entirely off.

I never use more rougher than 120 grit, when using factory paint for flattening and leveling.

I've never heard of putting epoxy primer over primer, it's always the undercoat.

I wouldn't use anything rougher than 220 grit to sand primer, especially if you are going to shoot a dark color. I'd then go over the entire surface with 400 grit. Then surface wash with a solvent surface washer, then spray your base color coat.

Why would you mix your color coat with clear? Sometimes people tint slightly the clear coat with a tiny bit of the base coat paint, but I would not do that if there is any pearl or metallic in the color.

Why would you sand your base coat? I would simply shoot the clear coat on the base coat within the topcoat time window suggested by the paint manufacturer. If you do clear coat, two-stage paint, which actually isn't how Surfblau was done at the factory. Surfblau is a single stage paint, with no clear coat from the factory.

You can sand and buff the clear coat if you want a mirror finish.

Okay, got it mixed up with candy paint...

Right now, no funds to paint, just picking your brain. Maybe in August for the 280TE, the Marina Blau Squareback be years away, thus why was taking advantage of the opportunity.

Been years since did paint, touchup in the inner fenders on the Squareback and then the 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier, outside using a trigger on aerosols. The former came out really nice, probably because not a metallic.

Can a sealer be used with the epoxy, since the epoxy doesn't seal?

Why not use seam sealer to seal the seams?

Having done two outside, would take advantage of the garage. Not sure how to protect the massive amount of stuff in there, but will figure it out.

Mesa is drier than other parts of the Valley (Tempe is the worse with that stagnant "lake"), but during monsoon season, can be 80 to 100 percent humidity. By the time get to the Squareback, might be in humid Texas, though could do it in the winter with heat, right?

Is there too fine of a paper to where not enough tooth for the next coat?

Myself, staying away from pearl and metallics because such a pain. All but one vehical that have owned were non metallics and so also think just used to them. Besides, pearl didn't come out until the '90s, so not authentic for any of my vehicals.

Tram turned me onto deepening the paint doing that and thought fairly common, guess not.

Can you get mirror with just a single stage?

crazy4diesel · #11 06-08-2017, 02:00 PM

Totally use seam sealer for seams that aren't on the finish surface. I was referring to the finish surface.

Epoxy is an excellent sealer, maybe the best. Here's some info: https://garage.eastwood.com/tech-articles/epoxy-primer/ Eastwood isn't my typical go-to, but this is new information, so much information is outdated.

To protect stuff in the garage you simply drape plastic from the ceiling to the floor. Tack it to the floor so it doesn't billow and get in your way. My garage currently looks like a scene from Dexter at the moment.

Humidity is actually good for most paint, as it is needed to cure the paint. Just know that shooting in 60%+ humidity you will want to extend your flash times, before recoating.

I can suggest some cheaper paint alternatives too. I've used a great paint from a manufacturer that does a lot of private label paint, don't want to mention the names here, but suffice to say, it's good stuff, but it is NOT as easy to shoot as PPG.

Your biggest investment is going to be a good gun, and of course an adequate compressor, also you'll need clean DRY air.

For sure you can go too fine with the paper and cause adhesion problems. Most paint won't show scratch marks of anything above 400 grit, as long as it's lightly applied, and a QUALITY sand paper manufacture. Cheap paper has inconsistent abrasives and can leave scratches. If you are doing a dark color, I'd go with 600 grit on your primer just before you lay down the single stage urethane color. Or, another way is 400 grit, followed by a 3M gray scuff pads. Some people don't like scuff pads, but I find the finish they produce to be very smooth, and level.

For sure you can color sand and buff single stage urethane. It's what was done before the advent of clear coat, and why it's called color sanding to this day, even though technically it's usually applied to clear coat now days.

The purpose is to knock down any dust nibs you might have gotten, and smooth out any orange peel. Keep in mind Mercedes factory finishes were known for pretty heavy orange peel, in fact Mercedes used to say they did it on purpose (very clever marketing folks) to show the paint was thick.

Can go into color sanding with you, in detail when you get to that point. One thing for sure, get a waterbug type DA sander for that project. And a variable speed DA buffer.

One observation I've made when prepping my car for paint: The factory paint was pretty crappy to be quite honest. I found several runs, and also several VERY light areas where there was basically only overspray of paint. It was very interesting to see on a 1983 car, that at the time had an MSRP of $34,000.

Adriel · #12 06-09-2017, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Totally use seam sealer for seams that aren't on the finish surface. I was referring to the finish surface.

Okay, simple enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Epoxy is an excellent sealer, maybe the best. Here's some info: https://garage.eastwood.com/tech-articles/epoxy-primer/ Eastwood isn't my typical go-to, but this is new information, so much information is outdated.

That article was very good.

Doing a lot of research and thinking, come up with a couple reasons the corrosion came through. One is the phosphoric acid that was told water neutralizes just fine. Second, if a 1k, not as think/strong as a 2k.

So my opinion has changed for 2k, as that is a good epoxy primer that seals. Then sandable primer, then dark primer. Done.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

To protect stuff in the garage you simply drape plastic from the ceiling to the floor. Tack it to the floor so it doesn't billow and get in your way. My garage currently looks like a scene from Dexter at the moment.

That was my thinking also, but don't you have to tape the seams? What about the overhead storage full of heavy items?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Humidity is actually good for most paint, as it is needed to cure the paint. Just know that shooting in 60%+ humidity you will want to extend your flash times, before recoating.

Good to know. Do have a humility meter anyway because of owning a grand piano (a gift).

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

I can suggest some cheaper paint alternatives too. I've used a great paint from a manufacturer that does a lot of private label paint, don't want to mention the names here, but suffice to say, it's good stuff, but it is NOT as easy to shoot as PPG.

What is private label?

Why not as easy to shoot?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Your biggest investment is going to be a good gun, and of course an adequate compressor, also you'll need clean DRY air.

Have a old Sanden 20 gallon, 3.5H.P., 12C.F.M. at 90P.S.I. compressor that bought for a Harbor Freight H.V.L.P., then changed my mind. Trouble is, developed a leak in somewhere around the regulator and can't find anyone help to solve it. Puts out good pressure, but poor thing runs all the time, gets hot. Plus, VERY loud. So loud, have to put the hose under the shut garage door and use it in the house, but you couldn't still carry on a conversation.

Love to have a 60, but in a temporary housing situation and the garage is barely big enough for the Mercedes, nose comes close to the garage door and have only one side can access and squeeze by.

For the gun, thinking this inexpensive, but not cheap, LVLP gun that only requires 7.8C.F.M. at 40P.S.I..

Keeping my eyes open for another 10 to 20 gallon tank, to piggy onto the Sanden. Then, could have it on the wall and when do move, can do it easily.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

For sure you can go too fine with the paper and cause adhesion problems. Most paint won't show scratch marks of anything above 400 grit, as long as it's lightly applied, and a QUALITY sand paper manufacture. Cheap paper has inconsistent abrasives and can leave scratches. If you are doing a dark color, I'd go with 600 grit on your primer just before you lay down the single stage urethane color. Or, another way is 400 grit, followed by a 3M gray scuff pads. Some people don't like scuff pads, but I find the finish they produce to be very smooth, and level.

Just so you know, I use 3M exclusively. Never have, never will, use anything else, unless proven better.

So would you ever use 800 on primer or base coat? Just curious...

Someday, yes, will have to shoot 904, so good to know about dark colors requiring more attention. Had a black vehical and bothered me because idiots had but swirl marks in. This 904 so bad, swirl be an improvement.

But, going to leave it for now because might have to park on campus and hanger rash is rampant.

Is 940 Hansablau be considered a dark color?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

For sure you can color sand and buff single stage urethane. It's what was done before the advent of clear coat, and why it's called color sanding to this day, even though technically it's usually applied to clear coat now days.

Hadn't thought which way was going on the 280TE.

So, a single stage urethane is stronger than a two stage? Out here, sand and gravel are common, thus why ask. Though, with a single stage, much easier to repair. Bet if went thicker on primer via an extra coat, then less chance to hit bare steel.

Know on the original paint, chips very easy,especially the front facing bodywork. Doesn't seem Mercedes put much of any primer on.

I sanded the clear after it came back a mess from a collision center. Did by hand so didn't blow though what suspected was a thin coat of clear. Couldn't find out as poor English and when asked, were offended that thought would do a low quality paint job.

And, side note, just because A.A.A. shop, just means they greased A.A.A.'s palms.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

The purpose is to knock down any dust nibs you might have gotten, and smooth out any orange peel. Keep in mind Mercedes factory finishes were known for pretty heavy orange peel, in fact Mercedes used to say they did it on purpose (very clever marketing folks) to show the paint was thick.

Orange peel in the primer?

Know that the top is only good as the foundation, so if laid smooth and sanded smooth, the coat after will also be smoother.

Actually the white 300TD-T and the 280TE have no orange peel, paint is nice and smooth. Though, on the 280TE, looks like the factory did a color change, as in the crevices and under the 904 is a very different shade of blau. Know on the classic Volkswagens, if the paint didn't pass inspection, was sent back. Putting on a darker blau cover better. If like pictures, they are on here somewhere or can take again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Can go into color sanding with you, in detail when you get to that point. One thing for sure, get a waterbug type DA sander for that project. And a variable speed DA buffer.

I do all my sanding by hand and keep a large bowl of fresh water handy. Part of it is expense, part enjoy it, and part limited storage space.

For the final sanding, yes, would invest in a DA. Been wanting one for a while, more and more as my joints hurt more and more when waxing.

Will take you up on the offers of further help when get to that point. For now, got a lot so can start making decisions and budgeting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

One observation I've made when prepping my car for paint: The factory paint was pretty crappy to be quite honest. I found several runs, and also several VERY light areas where there was basically only overspray of paint. It was very interesting to see on a 1983 car, that at the time had an MSRP of $34,000.

As I said, both the '85s are well done. No drips, runs, or orange peel. Only thin spots are under the hood where like got in a hurry and went strait over. It then shows a lighter blue.

Adriel · #13 06-09-2017, 11:14 PM

Oft, the simple or less expensive approach isn't the appropriate or most productive.

Consider got in a hurry a long while back, purchased a 20 gallon air compressor based on using a cheap H.P.L.V. gun. But, more likely to cause frustration and lacking results.

Got hung up on staying with 20 gallons, put me in the L.P.L.V. box, which after a good bit of research, apparently means very slow rate that in our dry climate mean one part of the panel be flashed off before finished. In short, back to frustration and lacking results.

The issue with the 60 gallon was space. Right now, the 20 gallon fits under the whole house 2.5 gallon water heater, dead space made useful. Looked, and for less than the cost of a broken used 20 gallon to rob the tank from, one can purchase a brand new, made in the U.S.A., tank that can be mounted above the wash sink, again taking advantage of dead space.

Still wouldn't give the 60 gallons, but with 40, 3.5H.P., and 11 C.F.M. at 90P.S.I. should be able to run a H.P.L.V. gun, right?

crazy4diesel · #14 06-10-2017, 12:03 PM

Private label about like Eastwood's paint or Summit Racing paint.

Single stage isn't stronger than clear coat, still chips, and Mercedes paint tends to be "hard" so chips easy. Softer formulated paints scratch easier though, so there's a trade off. But single stage is for sure easier to fix, though does need more care with waxing, etc. as oxidation is more likely.

Orange peel is possible in primer, I've seen it, but doesn't matter because you sand that anyways. I was speaking of orange peel in top coat.

I would for sure never use 800 grit on primer. You can, but you increase your adhesion risk at that level. As to base coat, I'm not sure why you'd sand it to be honest. Typically, you'll spray a medium wet base coat, then spray another coat, maybe even a third coat if you don't feel you have coverage. But, you do those wet on wet, just allowing time for the previous coat to flash.

Some painters even do base coat on wet primer, but I've always sanded the primer, to get rid of any missed flaws from prep sanding the car.

Then if you do clear coat (which you still can of course even on a solid color) you would for sure do that on wet color coat. I like to wait 2-4 hours though.

I'm not sure about that compressor even with a piggy back tank, HF does have 10 gallon portable air tank that's easy to convert to a piggy back tank, it's part of my set up. Also, those old compressors lied a lot about their CFM and HP, my old Craftsman says it's a 5 HP which is complete BS. What I've done is the Craftsman and a newer Kobalt 30 gallon 2HP unit feed air into the same line that also has the piggyback tank in the line. So all together I have 60 gallons of air, with one compressor kicking on at 120psi, and the other one kicks on when the pressure continues to fall at 110 psi. I've rarely had them both kick on, so I confident I finally have the air volume I need. Most of these HVLP guns suck air, some at 13 CFM.

Don't buy a cheap gun, it's just not worth it, I've been that route! And now have several guns I don't know what to do with, maybe paint house doors or something. If you do buy an Astro gun (I have one, but haven't used it yet, I'll let you know) buy, a 1.8 or 1.9 to use with primer only.

I hunted around and found a Devilbiss Protek Copper with 1.2 and 1.3 needles and a 7E7 air cap on Amazon warehouse deals, it was supposedly used, but I honestly couldn't find a single issue or indication it had ever had paint in it. I got that for $300, and is sprays base and clear beautifully.

Adriel · #15 06-10-2017, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Private label about like Eastwood's paint or Summit Racing paint.

Meaning good enough to protect the steel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Single stage isn't stronger than clear coat, still chips, and Mercedes paint tends to be "hard" so chips easy. Softer formulated paints scratch easier though, so there's a trade off. But single stage is for sure easier to fix, though does need more care with waxing, etc. as oxidation is more likely.

Where does urethane fall?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

I would for sure never use 800 grit on primer. You can, but you increase your adhesion risk at that level. As to base coat, I'm not sure why you'd sand it to be honest. Typically, you'll spray a medium wet base coat, then spray another coat, maybe even a third coat if you don't feel you have coverage. But, you do those wet on wet, just allowing time for the previous coat to flash.

Ha, yes, my thought too, just mentioned to confirm an extreme point.

See, by asking a stupid question, got back more information, so now have more questions.

What do you mean medium wet coat? Isn't all paint wet?

Mean the amount of reducer or thinner?

Then once all the paint is dry, then sand.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Some painters even do base coat on wet primer, but I've always sanded the primer, to get rid of any missed flaws from prep sanding the car.

If your primer was good, would there be any advantage to painting over wet primer?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Then if you do clear coat (which you still can of course even on a solid color) you would for sure do that on wet color coat. I like to wait 2-4 hours though.

Good to know.

Reminds me, fellow back in a Volkswagen aircooled club that used to be part of, sanded his oxidized factory paint, then rattle canned clear over. Looked great, but not sure how it would last.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

I'm not sure about that compressor even with a piggy back tank, HF does have 10 gallon portable air tank that's easy to convert to a piggy back tank, it's part of my set up. Also, those old compressors lied a lot about their CFM and HP, my old Craftsman says it's a 5 HP which is complete BS. What I've done is the Craftsman and a newer Kobalt 30 gallon 2HP unit feed air into the same line that also has the piggyback tank in the line. So all together I have 60 gallons of air, with one compressor kicking on at 120psi, and the other one kicks on when the pressure continues to fall at 110 psi. I've rarely had them both kick on, so I confident I finally have the air volume I need. Most of these HVLP guns suck air, some at 13 CFM.

How could they lie, isn't that false advertising?

So you don't need any valves, just feed the Craftsman and Kobalt compressors into the Harbor Freight tank?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazy4diesel

Don't buy a cheap gun, it's just not worth it, I've been that route! And now have several guns I don't know what to do with, maybe paint house doors or something. If you do buy an Astro gun (I have one, but haven't used it yet, I'll let you know) buy, a 1.8 or 1.9 to use with primer only.

I hunted around and found a Devilbiss Protek Copper with 1.2 and 1.3 needles and a 7E7 air cap on Amazon warehouse deals, it was supposedly used, but I honestly couldn't find a single issue or indication it had ever had paint in it. I got that for $300, and is sprays base and clear beautifully.

Agree not to purchase cheap, but what is wrong with inexpensive?

Actually, reconsidered back to the DeVilbiss as doesn't have the difficulty of L.P.L.V..

Considering not going to do a lot of painting, rather put the funds into a compressed air setup that will allow the gun to actually function. What good is an expensive gun if no air, or too little air, to operated it?

Good point about checking Amazon Warehouse.