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  #16  
Old 06-11-2017, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazemaster View Post
I have a machine shop and get out broken bolts quite a lot. You are going the right route with the left handed drill bits but as someone else mentioned, I wouldn't start with a tiny bit.

You can also try just using a center punch to grab and turn the bolt out.

I am also not too far from you and am a tig welder if you get stuck.

I hate easy outs.
Thanks for the response, and the offer to help.

So, what size bit do you think I should start with, if it comes to drilling? I think 5/64 is the nest one up that I have, just not sure how big I can go with such a small bolt.

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  #17  
Old 06-11-2017, 11:31 PM
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Thinking about it, I would try the slot with the cut-off wheel on the Dremel trick first. I would also apply some heat before trying to remove the bolt. If then you don't succeed, center punch the bolt and try drilling. If all else fails, slather it with Form-A-Gasket, install the pump with the remaining bolts as was suggested earlier. Just my .02
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  #18  
Old 06-12-2017, 10:05 PM
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If you snapped it off when tightening it, once the bolt head is off, there will be little pressure holding it in place. If it broke off when trying to remove it, it is stuck in place and the following will probably not work.

Cut a slot in the shaft. Use a screw driver to turn it out.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
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1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
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Last edited by GregMN; 06-19-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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  #19  
Old 06-12-2017, 10:32 PM
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If you're going to drill, use the smallest bit you have. Then work up. I believe that's a blind hole, so don't drill all the way through or you may have a real leak. I hear what's being said about welding onto the stub, but is it safe to do this on an aluminum casting? If the cover is damaged in the process, you're done.

The timing chain cover is machined as a unit with the block. If you end up needing a new cover, it's the end of the road. You're not going to pull the motor to deck the timing cover.

If form a gasket doesn't work, at least you're no worse off.
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  #20  
Old 06-17-2017, 10:08 PM
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Just wanted to close the loop on this. I didn't own a Dremel (for shame!) so I ordered one online and had to wait for it to ship, but of course it didn't come with a cut-off wheel, which I finally picked up at the hardware store today.

I spent a couple of minutes getting everything assembled and masking off the gaping hole in the timing case; cutting a slot in the bolt and turning it out with a flathead screwdriver worked like a champ - super stoked! It was literally seconds of work.

Thanks everyone for the tips!
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  #21  
Old 06-18-2017, 12:10 AM
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Hooray! I love that trick.
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  #22  
Old 06-18-2017, 06:19 AM
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Drill it , job done .Pack the open part of crankcase with dusters to stop any swarf that might get in there. Dont go and drill right though the bolt, but just enough to take the extractor You will be happy with a proper job .Drill it to take an easeout [extractor] .Good luck
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  #23  
Old 06-18-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by optimusprime View Post
Drill it , job done .Pack the open part of crankcase with dusters to stop any swarf that might get in there. Dont go and drill right though the bolt, but just enough to take the extractor You will be happy with a proper job .Drill it to take an easeout [extractor] .Good luck
You are a little late, the bolt is already out (read above).
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  #24  
Old 06-18-2017, 08:32 PM
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Congrats! Always satisfying to get a frustrating part of the job like that done.
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  #25  
Old 06-19-2017, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
The timing chain cover is machined as a unit with the block. If you end up needing a new cover, it's the end of the road. You're not going to pull the motor to deck the timing cover.
I know the OP problem is solved, glad that worked out.

New timing case cover: I'd be inclined to give it a try. If you take old and new cover to a shop and have them mill new down to match old, this should work. Worst case scenario is a minor oil leak. Perhaps a bead of the anaerobic sealer mentioned earlier would suffice, between timing case and head. When I pull the head and timing case off my OM603, had to loosen the oil pan to allow room to pull the case. Installed original case back on, but left loose. Installed head with new gasket and tightened case to head per torque spec, then tightened case to block and finally oil pan to case and block. No leaks.
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  #26  
Old 06-19-2017, 08:46 AM
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Glad the Dremel trick worked. Have been watching this thread with interest.

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