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  #1  
Old 06-12-2017, 09:53 PM
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606 cylinder head w/ broken glow plugs

So my new-to-me '98 E300 that had GP light on doesn't just have bad glow plugs - it has three broken ones. Two options I'm looking at are:

1. Take to MB dealer, write big check. But how big is big? Anyone here paid the dealer to extract broken plugs, and if so, what did it cost?

2. Buy a used cylinder head, and swap. Does anyone know if the cyl head is the same between 606.910 and 606.912 and 606.962? I've replaced 606 cyl head before on another e300 and it wasn't too bad of a job.

I'm trying to compare the cost of the two options. If the difference in price between them is >$1k I'd prefer the DIY route. If its less than $1k I'll gladly write the check.

Thanks for any insight.
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:32 PM
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You don't have to get a new head. You can follow this article

Only problem is there are a lot of special tools to be bought and will take a long time to do.
PeachPartsWiki: Broken Glow Plug Removal

Discussion of the article here
W210 broken glow plug removal - plan to make a nice DIY post.
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Last edited by Father Of Giants; 06-12-2017 at 11:02 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2017, 11:05 PM
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Did they break off in the head or are they seized? If they're seized I will walk you thru getting them out one by one. There's an extractor tool, if that doesn't work comes to worst you pull the head and have a machine shop extract them out. I've drilled out a plug before tho, it's risky
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2017, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
Did they break off in the head or are they seized? If they're seized I will walk you thru getting them out one by one. There's an extractor tool, if that doesn't work comes to worst you pull the head and have a machine shop extract them out. I've drilled out a plug before tho, it's risky
Broken off flush with the head. I'm plenty comfortable with the mechanical stuff, swapped heads on a 606 before, not a big deal. But drilling free-hand, at an angle, into a 4-valve head I'm not comfortable doing on my own. Maybe if I had some kind of special jig and tooling that made it idiot proof.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Of Giants View Post
Only problem is there are a lot of special tools to be bought and will take a long time to do.
I bet I can swap the 606 head in less time than it would take me to successfully drill three plugs out. And with a lot less sweat and frustration. I already have all the special tools required for a 606 head swap. I also don't want the down time associated with pulling my head and waiting on the machine shop. I'd rather just buy a good used head and swap it inside of a weekend. The machine shop can repair my old head at their leisure, and then I can resell it.

Even better would be if the dealer has the idiot-proof jigs and doesn't charge an arm and a leg for the service, I can solve this problem with the stroke of a pen. Guess I need to call them for an estimate.
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by torsionbar View Post
Broken off flush with the head. I'm plenty comfortable with the mechanical stuff, swapped heads on a 606 before, not a big deal. But drilling free-hand, at an angle, into a 4-valve head I'm not comfortable doing on my own. Maybe if I had some kind of special jig and tooling that made it idiot proof.



I bet I can swap the 606 head in less time than it would take me to successfully drill three plugs out. And with a lot less sweat and frustration. I already have all the special tools required for a 606 head swap. I also don't want the down time associated with pulling my head and waiting on the machine shop. I'd rather just buy a good used head and swap it inside of a weekend. The machine shop can repair my old head at their leisure, and then I can resell it.

Even better would be if the dealer has the idiot-proof jigs and doesn't charge an arm and a leg for the service, I can solve this problem with the stroke of a pen. Guess I need to call them for an estimate.
Don't call the dealer. Call an indepedent who has experience with MERCEDES not just imports.. Mercedes. They will know how to get the plugs out. They will have that easy out glow plug kit that's quote-on-quote "idiot" proof which I've seen people screw up before as well.

How were the glow plugs attempted to be extracted? With a 3/8 ratchet probably on a cold engine?

Also, if you decide to get rid of that head I will buy it. I could use it!
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torsionbar View Post
So my new-to-me '98 E300 that had GP light on doesn't just have bad glow plugs - it has three broken ones. Two options I'm looking at are:

1. Take to MB dealer, write big check. But how big is big? Anyone here paid the dealer to extract broken plugs, and if so, what did it cost?

2. Buy a used cylinder head, and swap. Does anyone know if the cyl head is the same between 606.910 and 606.912 and 606.962? I've replaced 606 cyl head before on another e300 and it wasn't too bad of a job.

I'm trying to compare the cost of the two options. If the difference in price between them is >$1k I'd prefer the DIY route. If its less than $1k I'll gladly write the check.

Thanks for any insight.
Yup, you can get away with just a head gasket and oil change if bolts are within spec.

I have similar situation but for different reasons (long, long story), with regard to interchangeability of heads, it can depend on year of replacement rather than model -

MB improved the head over time probably right up until the last year of production, so while an earlier head may fit it could be a variant on your original.

There's a good thread with additional detail on MB . org web site, bu unable to find link at present.
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Old 06-13-2017, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505 View Post
Yup, you can get away with just a head gasket and oil change if bolts are within spec.

I have similar situation but for different reasons (long, long story), with regard to interchangeability of heads, it can depend on year of replacement rather than model -

MB improved the head over time probably right up until the last year of production, so while an earlier head may fit it could be a variant on your original.

There's a good thread with additional detail on MB . org web site, bu unable to find link at present.
Remember that the US only got 5 years of the OM606.
1995 - OM606.910 N/A, mechanical pump
1996-1997 OM606.912 N/A, electronically controlled pump
1998-1999 OM606.962 Turbo, electronic pump

I would think that there's zero difference between the .910 and .912 non turbo heads but is there a difference between the turbo and non turbo versions?
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2017, 07:15 PM
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The NA head isn't as strong as a turbo head.. the turbo head is built for much stronger pressure much more heat and increased exhaust flow. the prechamber diamater holes are also different. you can make it work, just won't work as good as a turbo ehad

9.10/9.12 heads are identical BTW Jay-Bob.
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2017, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torsionbar View Post
Broken off flush with the head. I'm plenty comfortable with the mechanical stuff, swapped heads on a 606 before, not a big deal. But drilling free-hand, at an angle, into a 4-valve head I'm not comfortable doing on my own. Maybe if I had some kind of special jig and tooling that made it idiot proof.



I bet I can swap the 606 head in less time than it would take me to successfully drill three plugs out. And with a lot less sweat and frustration. I already have all the special tools required for a 606 head swap. I also don't want the down time associated with pulling my head and waiting on the machine shop. I'd rather just buy a good used head and swap it inside of a weekend. The machine shop can repair my old head at their leisure, and then I can resell it.

Even better would be if the dealer has the idiot-proof jigs and doesn't charge an arm and a leg for the service, I can solve this problem with the stroke of a pen. Guess I need to call them for an estimate.
Just move to florida, it will start up.
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  #10  
Old 06-13-2017, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Remember that the US only got 5 years of the OM606.
1995 - OM606.910 N/A, mechanical pump
1996-1997 OM606.912 N/A, electronically controlled pump
1998-1999 OM606.962 Turbo, electronic pump

I would think that there's zero difference between the .910 and .912 non turbo heads but is there a difference between the turbo and non turbo versions?
Both the 910 and 962 had almost identical head part number replacements up to the final entry below, in summary if you had a late non turbo 910 chances are it would have the same as a late 962.

This also applies to the cams which is very surprising given non turbo v turbo, if it';s of interest I can pop this info onto a spreadsheet for posting.

To the best of my knowledge, it's only the block internals that are different.

Below is the last listed part number for both 910 and 962

005 A 606 010 49 20 CYLINDER HEAD
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  #11  
Old 06-13-2017, 10:00 PM
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:23 PM
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Not sure if this will work being another forum, but this is the thread ref above:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
I looked into this, and according to the Mercedes-Benz EPC, the Cylinder Head Assembly (6060102920) works for both the 606.912 (1996 and 1997 model year non-turbo) as well as the 606.962 (1998 and 1999 model year turbo engine).
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