Hey buds, I found a professional shop that does reasonably priced differential rebuilding, and the guy who will do it for me will charge me less if I bring him all the parts so he doesnt have to scour the net for PN's.

Alright so for a 2.88, besides the three seals, what parts are needed for a rebuild/ refresh & reset? Part numbers for the crush sleeve thingy and the bearings would be keen if y'all have em. Any numbers, lists, links, etc would help me out a bunch.

Btw i have a good used 2.88 for sale, but im not putting it into my 300 though cause I have this low mile diff, & the jobs so big id like to not do it multiple times. AKA rebuilt diff rebuilt peace of mind.
Anyways as always thanks ever so much!

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A junkyard is not for junk

Why are you rebuilding? The differentials on these cars rarely fail and are simple to swap. Just get a $50 one from a junkyard and drive it until the wheels fall off. I don't think there is much wear difference on high mileage vs low mileage.

Dkr.

Diffs are so reliable....and plentiful....and easy to replace....I'd be inclined to just put one on the shelf and just swap it when/if needed rather than rebuild the existing one...but that's just me.

I seem to recall that it's really quite tricky to rebuild properly.

....and because of the above I have no numbers for you...sorry

Edit: dkr, you beat me to it

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I agree they very very seldom fail in the 123, 126, and 116/16. I had a bad one in my 95 e300d

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

A 2.88 is on eBay for $325; the gearset alone cannot be purchased for that. Run what you have.

I've got a 2.88 in my crusher bound donor car you have for $100, just come and take it out...if you want.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Mine is clunky for sure and if orig. has well over 400k on the unit.I have a parts car with only 94k for miles so the job is waiting for the right time to tackle .The play that is present is signicant ,if yours is not making any noise or like mine with alot of back and forth play but no grinding its probably fine to just keep riding it until you need a half shaft or some other maintinense assoc. with drive shaft removal ,always good idea to deal with multiple items during one service.Mechanics should give you a better deal also.Its Kind of how these old mercedes were built ,anything assoc. with the car rolling down the road is built for 200k to 250k before your unbolting and rebolting on a rebuilt or salvaged unit ,even then it keeps on giving.83 300cd

Ok fine, ill skip the rebuild. To replace the pinion seal though, I will need the seal, upgraded nut, and crush sleeve, right? I'm going to have that shop do it cause my hydrualic press isn't big enough.
If i'm not going to rebuild it, I want it at least resealed.

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A junkyard is not for junk