Let's start with the fact that I don't know much about this particular engine. See this thread for more info on the background of the thing:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Epeachparts%2Ecom%2Fshopforum%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D367625&share_tid=367625&share_fid=31137&share_type=t


Well, it's running well now, but the damn thing won't shut down when the stop lever is depressed.

I disconnected the linkages and pulled up on the throttle rod to make sure it wasn't an adjustment issue.

The crank vent is currently venting to atmosphere, so it's not injesting oil from there. I pulled the egr blockoff plate off to slow airflow in, then blocked the turbo inlet and pressed the stop lever and the behavior was the same, so I really think it is burning fuel, not oil. If I leave the throttle at idle and crack a few injection lines it will shut down.

What is going on with the injection pump?

Check your idle adjustment screw. It might be preventing the stop from going all the way down.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Oops, should have stated that I did that with the linkages check. I took the thing all the way out to be sure.

If you can't get the rod down with the adjustment screw off, it's something internal.

Btw-the link you provided to your thread does not work on a regular PC.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I'm almost positive that the rod is moving full range of motion when compared to a second IP that I have on the shelf in the garage.

What is actually happening inside the pump when the lever is raised to shut off the fuel?

Try this URL if interested:

om617 black smoke at idle

If it is a 617.952 Engine with an MW Fuel Injection Pump the Rack Damper Bolt/governor idle pin could be turned in too far.

Try backing it out and if your idle speed drops adjust the idle speed with the Idle Seep Adjustment Screw and see what happens.

The lidle adjusment screw has a spring loaded plunger inside of it. Sometimes they get rusted up and are stuck in position.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Happened to me last year. Was the stop valve in the back of the injection pump; it failed after 36 years in my '81 300SD. I installed a chinese made stop valve which instantly solved the problem for 13 months and then it went out. Put in a real stop valve from a SD in a junkyard and have had no recurring problem.

I also was not able to kill the engine by pressing the emergency shut off valve. Never did figure that out and frankly have not tried again since I put in the junk yard stop valve.

However after reading your following posts, if you can shut it off with a Mityvac - then the stop valve must be working. Assume you have no vac leak going to the shut off valve.

The pump is back out of the truck because the idle adjuster mounting boss (which was shoddily welded back on by a gorilla presumably) broke off again. When I was removing it I noticed that the damper was run all the way in, so good possibility this is at least a contributor. To bad the pump has to go back in to find out... After I coble an idle adjuster onto it.

I did also verify that the engine will shut down using a vacuum brake bleeder on the vacuum actuator.

At any rate, continue in this area as it is highly likely the problem is here. And I just don't get the welding repair- this isn't a farm trailer.


snapped_bolt

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'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....

Nothing to do with the problem at hand, but I wanted to share the high quality weld that caused an afternoon of repair:


And the bracket to remedy the situation:

Seems like some careful drilling in your future.

Beats gambling with a half-dozen other hinky injection pumps.


snapped_bolt

__________________
'81 240D For now, a good place to borrow new parts
'80 300TD Probably will be put back into service!
'79 240D BACK IN SERVICE SINCE 09/16; limited use, oil leak. Guide pin r/sealed/replaced. Still a leak. Front crank seal....

Like the bracket! Good fix.

Dan

The pump is back in and with the rack damper ajusted out the lever works as intended. Thanks for the assistance.

Great. Good luck.