Perhaps learn to wrench or make lots of money. That car is beautiful but will cost much at $100/shop flat rate. The woman in the 1st pic reminds me of a good friend that left this world much too soon.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Sorry to hear!



Well, we all took a from from Atlanta to Savannah this weekend-about 250 miles each way. There were many good things about the trip not relating to the 300D, some good things relating to the 300D, and multiple bad things relating to the 300D.

Here is the good:

• Went to the beach at Tybee Island
• Ate at some good restaurants
• Experienced onset of a minor existential crisis on a historical tour of an ante-bellum mansion
• Family really enjoyed the trip
• Family was comfortable in the re-padded seats
• My back didn't kill me in the re-padded seats like it did in my old E24 sport seats
• A/C kept us all nice and cool when it was 95 degrees outside - and there isn't any window tint to help
• Got between 27 and 30 MPG with 5 people in the car going 75 MPH.
• There were no public showers at the beach and we were a mess getting back in the car. Go vinyl seats!

Here is the bad:

• After getting in back in the car yesterday at the beach I noticed the shifter felt more like a mush box than a slush box. Have to shift almost to "L" to get it into "D." Anyone ever have this problem? (I will google on it, too...)
• Just after noticing the shifter issue, we came upon a beautiful thunderstorm in the distance. This was on a 20-mile trip from Tybee Island to Savannah. It started to rain and upon putting the windows up, the passenger's window got stuck only 3 inches from the bottom. Tried ridin' the storm out and failed. Ended up at a gas station and borrowed tools to open the door panel and found that a link fell out of alignment, 30 mins later back on the road. Could have been worse.
• After starting the car this morning to return the vacuum pump began squealing like a stuck pig during idle/stop lights. Could still hear it on the highway just more difficult from the engine noise. Stopped for gas 10 miles later and the brakes were hard as a rock and the car wouldn't turn off (red button of course did the trick). 250 miles later at 75 MPH, got back into down and stuck pig was audibly older, more tired, and closer to death.
  If the pump wasn't dead then I imagine it is now. Is the W115 pump the same as the W123? Thinking to just get one off eBay unless anyone has another suggestion.
• Family member comment: I think your car is too old.

Please tell me this car will stop falling apart!

Henry C.

The adventure begins !
You might be able to rebuild the vacuum pump.
Once it is removed, if the mechanical aspects are OK, it might only be a matter of replacing the seals and diaphragm.
You can get kits but do get the better ones.
A mechanic who knows how to do this ought to be entrusted. I think there is a method involving making sure the piston inside is either out or in...before setting the new diaphragm etc...


The gear selector on your car may have plastic bushings. Those bushing may be located at the gear selector rods under the car and/or at the gear snifter base.

Not terribly difficult to replace on the rods. The bushings are not expensive but for the shifter console, it is a little more involved. At least you don't have to drop the trans like for the C280 and W126 300SE !!
Get under the car and move the shifter rods. At the point it attaches to the trans selector arm and in-between...do a search in this diesel forum !

Happy 4th !

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Thanks for the input. I had also had the vacuum pump die on the night I bought the car. However, it didn't sound nearly this bad. The mechanic of the previous owner offered to take a look for free since he had recently rebuilt it--diaphragm, valves. He fixed it again and said some screw came out, but that the inside of it was badly scarred and recommended I buy a new pump for when this one dies. And about 350 miles later, lo and behold......

I need to find out what tools I need for this vacuum pump. Need to do ASAP. My loaded tool box and jack are in St. Louis and I won't have them for a month, so I will borrow some tools at work for the vacuum pump. I'm sure there is a good tutorial for doing this one, I just need to confirm I'm getting the right part. Will this do the trick? https://www.ebay.com/i/152190440013?chn=ps&dispItem=1


Henry

undo the hose that goes from the vac pump to the brake booster. with engine running , put your finger on the end an verify if you get suction.
Your symptoms are typical of vac pump failure. Look at the hose integrity.. could be broken vac hose etc..

the ebay offer is for a used one and has no diaphram ! I would not buy used unless you want it for a spare for later reconditioning or parts... my opinion.

yours might be OK except for the diaphram and O-rings... $20 kit but ya need to know how to install the diaphram... same as buying the used one- still needs diaphram !! used=crap shoot..

A new one might run $400 that should come with diaphragm(plus labor).. but still I personally do not know the method of installation other than needing hex bits to remove the bolts...
Big bummer that its a holiday.. worst time to have car/plumbing/health problems...

One mechanic from long ago sprayed wd-40 into the hose that attaches to the brake booster. I think it was meant to free up possible gunked works. BUT please wait for others to comment I do not want to suggest this is feasible...
sorry I can't help better and also I am not a mechanic, so grain of salt..

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

The diaphragm, o-rings, and the valves are all new. I did that suction test the morning after I bought the car and it failed the suction test, and I had the same symptoms. The vacuum pump goes straight to the brakes before anything else. I'm 99.9% sure the vacuum pump is dead knowing the brakes are hard and it won't turn off.

Can I just used the diaphragm and valves from what's in there right now, with that new $140 housing, or is there something else I might also need? The mechanic who did them said the diaphragm and valves are all new, fine and dandy. He seemed like someone who I can trust.

Henry

Cleeves, I realize that you are in a tough spot, but its best to sort things out.

I do not understand the value of buying a housing if yours seems OK at this point in tme.

It could be only your 'new' diaphram failed due to method of installation. (it happened to me once) No idea.
In other words, you have not established that your current pump innards are bad except for possibly the diaphram.

Check the integrity of the hoses that go to brake booster and how secure they are on the pump.
There are two hoses/connectors I think. Maybe spray some bubbly water around the area to see if it disappears due to some minor invisible crack in the hose or bad connection.(OK just realized you have no to little vacuum)

Then I would "ideally" remove the pump and inspect. I know, time consuming.

I realize my words may fall flat and may not be very encouraging under the tight circumstances, but diagnosing the problem specifics is a good idea.

The ebay pump might be OK. But needs a brand NEW diaphram. You can't just re-use an used one. Who knows whether your current pump innards are indeed better than the used one. Thereby defeating the expense for an intended immediate solution.

Tough call. If you can hang on until after the 4th, try to sort it out and go from there !
If the mechanic who claimed "new diaphram etc" sold the car to you, contact that person. Yeah its cash and carry but he might have ideas...
Good luck to ya !! Really !

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k17Llls50n0

Vacuum Pump Removal -- need to drain oil first? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

http://www.mercedesautoworks.com/Exhaust%20and%20Vacuum%20123%20new.htm



01-28-2012, 12:42 PM
Junkman Junkman is offline
Registered User

Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 3,027
I like having a vacuum gauge also. Measure vacuum with engine running before you start. It will increase every time you plug a leak.

The parts store sells packages of fittings to connect vacuum lines. Grab a couple of assortment packs along with some vacuum tube of various sizes. One of the most useful is a stepped straight piece that will connect hose sizes from <1/4" to ~ 1/2". Golf tees (plastic) work best for plugging rubber lines.

A shop replaced a friends vacuum pump & wants $700 but hasn't been paid yet. They misdiagnosed a nonperforming vacuum pump when the actual problem was a leaking brake booster. The complaint was that the car wouldn't shut off with the key.

Bottom line: make sure you have isolated the leak before replacing parts.
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting. 84SD 180,000. Thinking of painting both.
Reply With Quote

The Basics of Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Thanks for the input, unkl300D!

So, within about 2 hours I have diagnosed the vacuum pump problem and also notice that the A/C belt was nearly trashed. It seemed fine earlier this week. However, the A/C has always made a grumbling noise. Do you think this is from the compressor being low on oil, imploding, or pulling extra hard on the engine (pure speculation), or was this noise from the belt just being old?

It seems obvious to me that this vacuum pump never should have been put back on. The old epoxy job in the pictures did not sit correctly and I suspect that the rough edge of it cut through the diaphragm. Will probably not be using that technician again.

What replacement vacuum pump do you recommend I buy? The $140 ebay one or the $349 one from the Mercedes benz supplier? I noticed that the $349 one has both hoses facing the same direction, whilst mine and the ebay one have them at a 90 degree angle. Is that OK?









Warm Wishes,

Henry C.

Hi Cleeves, glad you were able to diagnose the problem.
I would phone a dealer with your VIN number to get the actual part number unless the part number is already stamped on your old vac pump.

Cross reference that with the one from your 'supplier'. The position of the hose attachments may be a clue to being the wrong pump.
Otherwise if the supplier's pump is correct to your VIN number, then its a matter of hoping that the vac hoses will reach under the alternate orientation.

Your original pump looks like the one on my 79 300d.

If the original pump case and bearings are not damaged on your pump, then its probably rebuild-able.

Its a tough call regarding which to buy if you plan on replacing the entire pump.(update: read the links, apparently your pump is no longer available new so a good used one is recommended)

In my experience, after my mechanic's diaphram replacement failed, he replaced it with a new pump.
This was over a decade ago and the pump is working (knock on wood).
I kept my old pump because it appeared OK otherwise.

The odd thing is that your new pump supplier seems to have an alternate hose connector orientation. Try to cross reference the pump replacement item on the web with other vendors. Maybe its all that is out there for that particular pump model. Just make sure this new replacement is accurate for your VIN number. Sometimes parts go by engine serial number.

rebuild kits
Vacuum Pump Repair Kit; Diaphragm Kit
1 kit per car. $9
Vacuum Pump Repair Kit; Pump Check Valve Repair Kit
This kit contains 2 check valves, o-ring seals, and gasket. See also vacuum pump diaphragm kit. 1 kit per car. $13

aside
https://**************.com/problems/vacuum/constantly-failing-diesel-vacuum-pumps

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/36yxxc/strongly_considering_buying_a_1976_mercedes_benz/

This is a PISTON type vac pump. This is NOT what your car (or mine) uses.
https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-w123-300sd-diesel-Vacuum/dp/B00AB92U08

OK the ************** link was not accepted by the forum so here is the quote.

"Problem & Solution
Common among these chassis:
W115
W116
W123
W126
Vacuum pump drive failure is becoming more of a problem as these old diesel 616 and 617 engines age. Both pump pistons and cover plates are failing and often when a pump is changed the same thing will happen to the replacement pump in a short order. Here are a couple things to check if you find yourself faced with this problem. This can also cause pre-mature failure of the rubber diaphragm on early models and the piston on later models
1. Check the pump drive bearing and pump lever assembly. Look for signs of adverse wear in the pivot points and on the bearing.
2. Check the springs inside the pump. You should have to push VERY hard to compressed those springs. If you can push the springs in easily the pump mechanism can "jump" putting extra strain on the rubber diaphragm causing it to tear.
3. Check the timing device bushing and cam. (See second picture). The shaft that drives both the timing device and the injection pump is supported in a bronze bushing. If this bushing should wear excessively the shaft can wobble thus changing the alignment of the vacuum pump drive cam to the pump bearing. Although bushing failure is rare, its condition should be checked when you are experiencing repeated vacuum pump problems. To check for side play it's best to remove the timing chain tensioner first. Then grab ahold of the timing device and pump cam and try to move it side to side. If it moves more than 3/32 of an inch at the end of the nut then you may have a problem. Do not ignore this bushing. If worn and ignored it could cause excessive timing chain wear leading to timing chain failure... and we all know that destroys an engine!
4. Make sure your timing chain is not worn out. If loose it can cause the timing device to "rattle" stressing the pump.
NOTE: If you see signs your pump is worn out you should look for another good used pump as they are not available new any longer. "


here is peachparts offering repair kits
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=Vacuum+Pump+

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Hey Cleves, nice looking ride! The only noise the AC belt should make is squealing if not tensioned properly.

I have a diaphragm vacuum pump that was working when removed from a wreck that you can have for $50 plus shipping. Let me know if interested and I'll dig it out and take some pics.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Cleeves update: I took my original pump out of storage and its a Pierburg w MBZ logo. It has the two hose connectors both straight up rather than 3 O'Clock.

So later I will look to see if the replacement was also the same or 3 O'Clock version. The old Performance Products schematic I have shows the 3 O'Clock set up for the specified replacement pump (no longer available) $329 back then.

The replacement pump on my car now for over a decade is part no. 000 230 06 65 Pierburg as specified for my 1979 300d. Pierburg 7.20208.50.0 Vacuum Pump
https://www.opticatonline.com/part/pierburg-720208500-vacuum-pump

You might want to take up funola's offer. He is a sstraight up guy. At least you will have a spare at hand. Don't toss your old one !

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Rebuilt one on ebay $500 000 230 06 65 BUT I do not see the diaphram included...
Mercedes 220D 240D 300CD 300D 300TD Diesel Vacuum Pump

rebuilt one $220 correct part number PLUS diaphram !

this guy started out on this forum and made his own web site.
he is OK
http://www.dieselmercedes.com/Mercedes_Vacuum_Pump_Dual_Port_Rebuilt_OM617_NA_p/4771-m67.9nz-r.htm




OE Mercedes Rebuilt Dual Port Vacuum Pump for Late OM615, OM616, & OM617 Naturally Aspirated Engines.
This pump late-style pump has been rebuilt with new check valves, seals and a new diaphragm.
Dual port pump with the ports parallel to each other.
Early style two port pumps had the ports at a 90 degree angle.
The pumps interchange, but may take modification to make the vacuum lines reach.
Will not fit later OM617 models with the single-port pump.
Stock photo, may not be exact item pictured.

Compatibility/Interchange
1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983
W115: 200D, 220D, 240D, 300D
W123: 240D, 300D, 300CD, 300TD

This item is covered by our 180-day Rebuilt Part Warranty

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Why, thank you!

I am interested in this. Do you know if it has any cracks forming in it?

Thanks !
H

Thanks for the input, unkl300D, and for the recommendation on buying from funola! I bought his for a very reasonable price and installed it, and put in new belts and other things, saving a lot of money for relatively little time invested. Upon doing this, I found with my Mityvac that there were many vacuum leaks and the system held zilch - I wonder how it even turned off before the pump broke. My $230 inspection from a local mechanic was a waste of money, this is something they should have easily caught. 2 bad check valves and multiple leaky old hose connectors, it seemed every branch of the system had zero vacuum except the brake booster. How this got past multiple mechanics I don't know.

The cruise control itself still holds a tight vacuum, and I wonder if it works. The previous owner's mechanic unplugged it warning me that these were faulty from the factory and had a tendency to get stuck on high acceleration. Any input on this? Am I safe to try it out?

I also pulled the gauge cluster and fixed the odometer by scoring up the rod that gets loose and I oiled the speedometer, which barely wobbles anymore.

In the process of all of this, I managed to somehow knock out a plug or connection that powers the AC and heater blowers. Does anyone have any tips on what to look for with this? Should I start at the bottom or start by pulling the gauge cluster again?

The indicator bulb for the right turn signal also seems to have died in my gauge cluster pulling.....

Well, mostly successful!


Warmth,
Henry C.