w210 E300 210.025 om606 alternator interchange
 

I've got an internal short in my alternator, '98 E300. Looking for a replacement, I came across some interchange data that I thought may be useful to others. Apparently the '98 - '99 E300 has an alternator not used on any other USA model cars. Here's the interchange data I found:

Mercedes - Euro Car
E250D 2500 1995-1998
E300D 3000 1993-1997
E300TD 3000 1997-1999

Mercedes LCV - Euro Van
Sprinter 208D 2300 1995-2000
Sprinter 210D 2900 1995-2000
Sprinter 212D 2900 1995-2000
Sprinter 308D 2300 1995-2000
Sprinter 310D 2900 1997-2000
Sprinter 312D 2900 1995-2000
Sprinter 410D 2900 1997-2000
Sprinter 412D 2900 1995-2000

Mercedes-Benz - US Car
E300 L6 3.0L 2996cc Diesel 1998-1999


ACE Tri-Star CA13972N
AIM AB-00297R1
Alltech 311-13972
Beck Arnley Remanufactured 186-1111
Bosch 0-123-510-038, 0-123-510-049, 0-123-510-080
Bosch Remanufactured AL0765X
Bosch Service Europe 0-986-039-390, 0-986-041-120
Cargo 111883
Delphi RM3312
Dixie Electric A-6387
EGI A-13972
Elpar Industries 0204036220
Elstock 28-2908, 28-2991
Expom ER-439 390
HC Parts CA1299IR
Lester 13972
Letrika (Iskra) Sales IA 1110
Lucas Electrical Europe LRA01684, LRA01723
Mercedes-Benz 010-154-01-02, 010-154-05-02, 010-154-94-02, A010-154-01-02, A010-154-05-02

Wunnerful Non OE Parts Suppliers
 

Difficult to tell (Whether you've got an 90 amp or a 115 amp Bosch
BUT,I do believe the Bosch 143/150 Amp is a Direct Fitment Upgrade...

GSXR details his Upgrade @ W124performance.com

Your E300 has a 115A alternator. Put that back on. '98-'99 got the 115A, '96-'97 had a 90A. Alternator will be labeled on MBs on top of the alternator.
How do you know it's internally shorted?

Output is only 12.4 volts, and if I park the car for several days, I come back to a dead battery. May not be shorted per se, but the output is so low its killing the battery. Two new H8 batteries in 2 weeks.

You probably just need a new voltage regulator.

You may have a bad diode in the alternator that will drain your battery. Most auto supply stores can test your alternator for free, and it may give you the answer to your problem. Good luck!!

Thanks for the suggestions, I agree something inside the alternator has gone bad. For my time, I'd rather swap the alt than troubleshoot its internals. It has 154k miles on it, so at this point, a rebuilt unit with new bearings and such seems a good investment.

If you're going to be replacing the alternator, take a look at the link below for a helpful guide on the procedure. Please let us know if you have any questions!

Mercedes-Benz W210 Alternator Replacement (1996-03) E320, E420 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

This is a bump, and a comment for the '98 '99 E300D alternators:
Just noted the pulley on my 115A AL0765X uses a big torx bolt to secure it, not the 24mm nut referred to in the how to article.
Good thing it came with the correct pulley installed (the special locking pulley made for the application and discussed in threads on the Forum) else I would have to locate the right drive tool to R&R it.
DDH
added pic of the spine bolt inside the OAP (Overrunning Alternator Pulley). Ignore the outer dia with teeth near the opening, look deep into the pulley and you will see the splined bolt (pic made using Nikon 60mm Micro lens!)
NOTE:
torsionbar informed me the proper tool is a 33 spline drive bit (Gates H22X33T).
I would recommend removing the OAP clutch pulley if sending a core off to the rebuilder because they surely will sell you a rebuilt alternator without the pulley!
Note the cost of an OAP pulley: Dealer list for W210.020 is $172, $138 wholesale or under $80 for the Gates 37011P depending on where you buy it; another aternate is INA 535.0012.100 if you can find one.
Now I need to find the plastic cover for my next OAP alternator rebuild