Things to do while cluster is out? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Turbo190D · #1 06-28-2017, 10:43 PM

Tonight I yanked the cluster on my 190D. Gah, what a pain. I yank the cluster on my hardbody all the time. A few screws and a tug and it's out. This thing... clambering about under the car, over 9000 wires, etc.

Anyway... it's out. I plan to fix the odometer (most likely gears from what I've read) and replace all the light bulbs with LEDs. I don't want to have to take this thing out again, so what else would you guys recommend I do while I have the cluster out?

sixto · #2 06-28-2017, 11:40 PM

Paint the needles, clean or replace the dimmer rheoatat...

If you're adventurous, configure the economy section of a gasser gauge to show boost.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Mxfrank · #3 06-28-2017, 11:52 PM

I also pulled mine from below the first time out. It's the wrong way of doing it. If you plan on putting it back the same way, you have some nasty work ahead of you.

On this car the best way to pull the cluster is to first remove the air vent surround on the left side of the dashboard. That allows you to sneak your left hand around back and do all the work while sitting comfortably. It's not hard to remove the surround, but it's best done with a pair of dash pullers. These are tools you should look into acquiring. You pull the vent out of the surround by positioning it exactly in the middle of it's range of motion. then use two pairs of needle nose pliers...one on either side of the middle slat...and pull straight back. Once the vent is out, the surround is removed by lifting the four tabs two at a time with a pair of dash pullers. You're going to find that it's next to impossible to reconnect the left air hose from below, but the dash vent method makes it easy.

Once it's out, make sure you know where all the wires go, as there are a lot of them. Since you'll be installing half of them by feel, study the back side of the pod so you know what you have to do. Take a photo or two.

You may want to repaint your needles if they are faded.

You may not plan to have it out again, but you will. Be patient.

Mxfrank · #4 06-29-2017, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

If you're adventurous, configure the economy section of a gasser gauge to show boost.

I actually configured mine to show vacuum, as it does in a gasser. Works pretty well. It's a tough mod, and the early gauge face is getting hard to find. Here's a write up I did a few years back:

An Economy Gauge for my 190D - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Turbo190D · #5 06-29-2017, 12:34 AM

Thanks for the info. I was going to do the AC vent method, but I was following the Pelican guide, which said that generally people that have large hands can't really do that method. My hands are on the extreme end of the large spectrum, so I opted for the cable method. Maybe it won't be too bad to put back...

That boost/vacuum gauge idea is very interesting. I will definitely look into that!

party · #6 06-29-2017, 01:33 AM

Speedo cable is cheap enough to replace while in there. I put in polished gauge rings while I had mine out for that job.

You should be able to work it out by pulling with rubber gloves if you have a firm enough grip.

Huge fan of Nissan Hardbodys, btw.

If anyone has tips on how to remove the left vent w/o damage please share. I need to get to the left side to add an optical fibre for a switch illumination and would prefer not to have to pull the cluster just for that.

optimusprime · #7 06-29-2017, 05:08 AM

You need to mark the speed pointer .Lift it over the end stop and mark its resting place refit same way on the mark and lift it over the stop .Fail to to do this, and the speed will be out . You have earth points inside the dash from the place the cluster came from ,give them a calean up while you have the cluster out .Tape up the speed number drums to stop them turning aut of sync . My shaft was turning without turning the speed drum pot gear .Diselgiant web site as a diy on this . Do a Google search .

Mxfrank · #8 06-29-2017, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo190D

Thanks for the info. I was going to do the AC vent method, but I was following the Pelican guide, which said that generally people that have large hands can't really do that method. My hands are on the extreme end of the large spectrum, so I opted for the cable method. Maybe it won't be too bad to put back...

You need small hands whichever way you do it. But from below, you're working upside down and completely blind. It will be next to impossible to reconnect the vent hose that way. I've done this job every possible way, and the FSM method of going through the vent works the best. The Pelican guides are extracted from the group grope, not necessarily definitive or even correct.

Turbo190D · #9 06-29-2017, 09:25 AM

I thought about replacing the speedo cable. I can tell someone has replaced it before, but I'm not sure how long this one has been in there, or how long they usually last.

Thanks optimus, that's good advice.

Mxfrank, I'm not entirely sure what you mean by working upside down and reconnecting a vent hose. I disconnected the speedo cable from the trans, then pulled the cluster out and unscrewed it from the back of the cluster. I didn't get up under the dash or anything, and don't think I've fiddled with any vent hose.

TX76513 · #10 06-29-2017, 09:36 AM

As was said - paint needles (Testers #14). Clean gauge faces and interior side of plastic. Take a Q tip and alcohol and clean the numbers on the odometer. Replace any burned out bulbs. Change out the Check engine icon with a $$ icon

You can also change out the gauge faces to something custom or white .....pretty inexpensive and a forum member was creating these.

Mxfrank · #11 06-29-2017, 10:25 AM

Did your left vent work? There should have been a large plastc hose between the heater box in the center console and the left vent. You would have had to remove it to get to the cable. Possibly someone has been in there before.

My speedo cable is original. With 412k miles, I have no plan to replace it.

Turbo190D · #12 06-30-2017, 12:05 AM

Eh, none of the climate controls work. The previous owner disconnected all the climate control stuff and put a switch in that turns the blower and compressor on. I haven't really fiddled with it much to see what vents are working.

I pulled the cluster out and then reached back behind the right side to disconnect the speedo cable.

Turbo190D · #13 08-26-2017, 11:28 AM

It's been a bit, but I can't find that Testors #14 paint. All the Testor's paints I see have a 4 to 6 digit number. Mine are mostly white with a couple of them sortof a yellow color. I'm not sure what color they're actually supposed to be.

EDIT: Wait, is it 1114?

sixto · #14 08-26-2017, 11:54 AM

Testors 1114 is yellow. Testors 1115 signal amber looks closer on my screen.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Turbo190D · #15 08-28-2017, 12:14 PM

I picked up both, but the 1114 looked better.

Before:

After: