AC hose identification and p/n help request
 

Welp, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I can't seem to find a p/n for an AC hose I need to replace on my '84 300D. This particular hose goes between the compressor outlet, under the engine, and back up where it connects to another hose going to the condenser. I was having a hard time getting it to seat fully and not have it wiggling around, and the threaded end on the hose twisted inside the hose, so I decided I couldn't trust it and would need to replace it instead of messing with it. Attached are two photos of the compressor outlet pipe and the hose I'm talking about.

Seems this was a repair of some sort, as the p/n on the foil label on the hose is 617 130 04 57 and that's for the entire assembly.

I don't have the desire to spend another $230 on another component nor do I have the time to wait for one to arrive as the car is going to it's new owner on Monday. So I just tightened the hose clamp, dropped a perfectly fitting white plastic o-ring from an AC o-ring kit into the nut and tightened it all up snug. With the plastic o-ring in the nut the fitting no longer wobbles on the pipe, and if it holds vacuum and pressure, I'm going to call it good.

Did you use Nylog ?

That isn't original since the factory hose has a crimp collar there and everywhere. Somebody did a repair w/ a screw hose clamp. At least they used an AC-type clamp (w/ locating finger). Wonder where they got the fitting since these are metric threads and probably rare in the U.S. Perhaps they re-used an old fitting, which is fine. It should be an O-ring fitting, and if leaking just change the O-ring (HBNR type). A better-looking clamp is an Oeticker stepless ear clamp.

Nope, I have no idea what that is.

Doesn't matter anyway, as the AC Delco reman compressor was bad right out of the box. Pissed away $18 worth of Enviro-Safe, too. New compressor gets delivered tomorrow, and I will be charging the system with R134a as I can't find any ES stuff locally. Too bad for my brother-in-law; I was trying out the Enviro-Safe stuff since he lives in Phoenix. Hopefully the 134 is cool enough for his tour of NY and the eastern seaboard and he can find someone to replace it with an R12 substitute in Arizona.

I changed the o-ring to a new HBNR type, but the fitting wouldn't fully seal/secure even when it was fully tightened. It didn't seem to leak with the ES134 charge, but I will open it back up tomorrow when I swap out the compressor and double check that the o-ring didn't vacate the premises.

The O-ring seals circumferentially, so as long as the mating tube slides into the fitting, it shouldn't leak. The threads don't need to be tight to seal, just to keep it secure. If the threads are boogered-up or not metric, then the nut may not be going down enough. If you count >4 turns of the nut, the tubes should be engaged.

A better guess is that it is still leaking between inner hose and fitting. Since that was loose, it suggests the rubber is old and hard. Look for my post where I changed that HP rubber. I used standard -10 AC barrier hose, as I recall, and routed it straight over to the condenser. You can buy on ebay cheap, but may not have time before shipping the car. A local AC shop could probably sell you some or even rebuild your hose if you bring in the fittings w/ the desired clocking marked.

I have had the exact same R4 problem years ago, it is a common theme with them. It was the "last straw" for me, and was the last R4 I used. Good luck with the replacement, you will need it.

I hope you read the AC thread in my signature.... before you invest more time and money...

IF you have one of the later R4 compressors and follow the AC rules.. you should be just fine... don't let ROLLGUY's negative comment affect your decision ... millions of them have been used with R134a just fine in other vehicles..

New compressor (with stepped ports) installed, bigger o-ring on the repair fitting, 2.6# of R134A and all is well. Compressor is smooth and quiet, temps aren't freezing but nice. My job is done.

My comment was not meant to be negative, I was just sharing my (same) experience with an "out of the box" bad R4. What I did NOT share (but will now), is the many "out of the box" bad R4's my local A/C shop has had to deal with. I was offering "good luck" to the OP, because maybe he will have something that has alluded me when dealing with these compressors. As always YMMV.

One thing I did notice with the new compressor is it was a private label brand made by 4 Seasons, and the reman AC Delco was reman'd by 4 Seasons. Though they both had labels stating such, only the reman compressor had an initial oil charge. While it was pressurized and sealed correctly, the new compressor had no oil in it at all! So I had to delay installing the new compressor a while as I let it "soak" clutch side down with some fresh PAG 150.

I was going to comment on how everyone complains about how difficult changing the compressor is, and that it only took me at most 10 minutes both times, until I realized that the aftermarket o-ring fitting on the compressor outlet pipe on my particular car makes a huge difference.

I am curios what p/n is the new 4 Seasons R4 you installed, where bought and how much $? I just installed a reman Factory Air by 4 Seasons GM R4 p/n 57228 . It held pressure 125 psi Argon overnight so it's good to go for charging. All hoses are original to the car with new o-rings throughout, new TXV, dryer also..

10 minutes to install a R4 in a W123? I don't believe it! Tell us how you did it!
Done on a lift? Still don't believe it.

Advance Auto "ToughOne", p/n T58228, made by 4 Seasons. I bought it on my wholesale account, so I won't divulge the price.

Yes, 10 minutes, and until a few days ago, I had never touched an AC compressor on a W123 before. Both my lifts are occupied so I did it on my back with the car on ramps. But like I mentioned, having the o-ring fitting on the compressor outlet pipe probably makes all the difference, as I could leave the "pipeline" attached to the compressor when taking it off and mount it to the compressor before installing it in the car. Other than that, I had the upper bolt on the side closest to the engine block sitting in the bracket, and with one hand holding the compressor up, I started that bolt. When it had enough of a purchase on the compressor, I got the upper outer bolt into the pipeline and into the bracket and through the adjuster ring. I worked it back out until the adjuster ring was just caught on the tip of the bolt and tilted the compressor to slide the spacer in, then I threaded the bolt into the compressor. Same thing with the lower bolt closest to the block, got it into the bracket then wedged the spacer in and started the bolt.

Maybe 10 min to get the bolts started and the manifold on. But tensioning the belt and tightening all the bolts alone takes at least 10 min. Add more time to find just the right wrenches to swing in the restricted spaces, unless you just did one the week before and remember.

There are different "wholesale" accounts. Getting a discount off retail from McParts is not a difficult task - even when buying locally. Many parts sold on Ebay require importers pricing to be competitive. Ebay and PayPal take 12% off the top. Subtract 12% and shipping and the actual part is priced below local jobber cost. The major cost on many parts is shipping. A fender is a good example and can be bought for less than it costs to ship. Obviously shipping is never "free", simply built into the price.

Curios what was bad about your AC Delco reman compressor? What's the p/n, brand etc? Did it have a small or big clutch? Stepped ports or o-rings on the manifold? I just put a reman in my 85 and it's working ok so far http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/387054-4-seasons-remanufactured-r4-compressor.html

Like I said, I lucked out with the manifold thanks to the extra fitting someone added in the past. And all three bolts are 19mm, and I had no issues using a 3/8" ratchet and 19mm socket on all three. A 10mm deep socket on a 24" extension makes quick work of tensioning the belt.

4 Seasons reman'd for AC Delco, came from WorldPac, p/n 15-20516, with o-rings and large clutch. I had a bad feeling about it when I drained the initial oil charge and there were bits and pieces in that oil. The compressor ran for about 10 seconds but stopped actually compressing anything and just made a loud rattling sound whenever the clutch was engaged (and for a few seconds after the clutch was disengaged).

The account manager is so hungry for my business he will match any online price that he can verify, and will beat any commercial desk price by 5-10% without verification. Competition is fierce.

Did you flush before installing the new compressor? Chances are the "bits and pieces" (some unknown quantity) are still in the system if no flush was performed. Just sayin'.

Yep, this ain't my first rodeo.

I spoke to 4 Seasons tech support about their reman and new R4's. They supply them to quite a few outlets such as PepBoys Factory Air, Autozone, OReilly Everco (not sure), Advance Tough One and others. The compressors are from the same assembly line in Mexico. Sounds like yours may also be from the same assembly line. Did you flush the system before installing the reman? What did the flush look like?

I did, and it was just old brownish oil, most of it in the evaporator. No chunks or bits, and I even cut open the old dryer and found nothing suspicious. I was just a bad compressor. They didn't do too good of a job cleaning it before painting it, either. Chunks of old dirt and grime kept coming out from the nooks and crevices.