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  #1  
Old 07-01-2017, 11:09 AM
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Turbo Intake Modification 1982 300SD

Hi,

I am so fed up with my turbo intake seal. Like others, I know the pain of getting the u tube on and off of my intake. I had a deformed seal, a leak that I duct taped, and an oil drip. I've absolutely had it.

I saw all the great cone filter mods with sewer pipe here. I almost did that. I was at Walmart thumbing over the nice conical Fram filters but I just didn't feel like messing up the original intake of the car. I don't know why...it is the most sucky engineering in the entire car. I've welded and replaced two air cleaner brackets, replaced numerous vibration dampers. You guys know the drill.

So I did something really easy. I didn't get to it easily but here is what I ended up with. I bought this turbo inlet hose 3" or 76mm. Common stuff. A four inch piece cost me $3.



My original intent was to make a replacement rubber seal to go between the u tube and the air cleaner. But I cut a ring of hose and I just couldn't jam the u tube over the air cleaner with the hose in there. It is just the wrong size. I got desperate and put slits in the flange of the u tube inlet. Then I cut off the lip of the u tube inlet. Still no go.

Finally I figured how about just cut off the entire flange of the u tube inlet and slip the silicone hose over the end. I cut it off just at the boundary of the flange and the u tube section where it necks down. The silicone hose slips nicely over the edge. It is a good seal but I black siliconed it just for good measure. The 3" hose easily slips over the air cleaner outlet. Wow. Now that was easy.

Here's how it looks. We'll see how it lasts. Sadly, the PO ran my car with a big leak at this junction and may have degraded my engine. I only have 390 psi across all cylinders. Wish I had the 400+ I see people post here. So if you do this make sure you get a good seal. I'll have to keep a close eye on it.



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  #2  
Old 07-01-2017, 01:13 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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Why not just buy the OEM seals? I just did that and I paid like $15.

How would having an air leak there degrade your engine?

Dkr.
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2017, 05:14 PM
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Where did you get your seals? I couldn't find any here at peach and I looked around online and couldn't find any except at m...source.com. I figured the rubber hose was cheap so I'd try it. I was worried that I'd have the same problems with a replacement OEM if I could even get it so I thought I'd just start over.

Also it was just total pain to get that u tube on and off. It has always been hard even before the gasket got all deformed. The bottom joint on the turbo goes on easier but it doesn't have the bead rolled into the neck. I wanted to get something easier installed. So this is what I came up with.

My theory is that the intake u tube was open for awhile and unfiltered dusty air got into my engine. I could be wrong...I don't know what the PO did to my engine. My compression isn't bad but the engine has some blowby and the compression is in the high 300s.

Just a guess.
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2017, 12:50 AM
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Thanks Dkr.

These don't seem to come up when I search under my car and then in the air intake section. All I see is the u tube and some air filters.

Well, I don't have a flange anymore so I guess I'm stuck with my solution for awhile.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
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85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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  #6  
Old 07-02-2017, 12:55 AM
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Oh for goodness sakes. I had to search under turbocharger not fuel and intake.
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  #7  
Old 07-02-2017, 02:12 AM
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An air leak won't damage compression. What's your reason behind that theory?

390PSI is fantastic for a 200k mile engine. A dodge pickup truck gas engine at that mileage would be on its last legs leaking more oil than the exxon valdez. The rated PSI for compression for new OM61x motors is rated between 380-430PSI new. Your still falls in the "New" region.
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  #8  
Old 07-02-2017, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
An air leak won't damage compression. What's your reason behind that theory?
I think the poster means that by having a leak at the U-tube, the engine could suck in grit and contaminants that would get into the cylinder walls and score them, which would lower compression over time.
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  #9  
Old 07-02-2017, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog View Post
I think the poster means that by having a leak at the U-tube, the engine could suck in grit and contaminants that would get into the cylinder walls and score them, which would lower compression over time.
Which clearly hasn't happened if he's still at 390PSI...
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ykobayashi View Post
Hi,

I am so fed up with my turbo intake seal. Like others, I know the pain of getting the u tube on and off of my intake. I had a deformed seal, a leak that I duct taped, and an oil drip. I've absolutely had it.

............
Yes, the SOB is a ***** to get off, especially in colder temps when the rubber is less pliable. I used to struggle to get it off but since discovering this trick, it's been easy every time.

Get a rope about 1/4" diameter or greater, a power cord from old appliances works great! Wrap it around the U, tie a knot so you have a loop to yank on. Give it a good tug and it comes right off!

This trick also works great on belts that's been fully un-tensioned but will not come off the pulleys.
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  #11  
Old 07-02-2017, 11:25 AM
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I misstated my compression numbers. I had a hopeful memory. I looked up my notes. Cyls 1-5.

320,350,300,285,290 (post valve adjustment of course).

It seemed a little on the low side but the car still runs great.

My oil cap wobbles a lot if I loosen it up suggesting I have a moderate amount of blowby.

I get it though, I'm being a big baby and need to just drive the car and enjoy it. It doesn't smoke and it starts easily after glowing.

Also due to my broken (slipping odometer was 20% off) I may have more than 200k.

I think it's time to drive out and have a nice day behind the wheel.
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  #12  
Old 07-02-2017, 12:20 PM
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For what it's worth, I replaced both of the seals in the U-tube about 6 years ago and from that point on I've never had difficulty removing the air cleaner. In fact, over the past week I've had my air cleaner on and off about 5 times.

All it takes is loosening of the clamp at the turbo, and then the tube slides off of the turbo with the air cleaner still attached to the tube. A little grease on the turbo end can help with sliding it on or off. But, if you use too much grease the turbo will suck it in.

Of course, if one uses very old, hardened, deformed seals, it will be a constant struggle.
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1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #13  
Old 07-02-2017, 08:21 PM
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First, stop fussing about the P.O. Most here would be thrilled to measure 390 psig compression in all cylinders. That is "like new". It is also hard to measure compression exactly. Besides condition of you your rings and valves, it changes as valve timing changes (chain stretches, camshaft wears) and is very sensitive to your compression fittings displacing exactly the same volume as the parts removed for the test (injector or glow plug).

Silicone hose will last a long time. I used it on both my 300D's to replace the factory rubber inlet on 85 CA engines. If tired of the cracked cleaner brackets, since in CA you can easily get a 1985 CA frame-mounted air filter at Ecology. I did for my 1984 300D (need to cut outlet tube slightly). I see them all the time in Sacramento. Out-of-state guys can put a request on the row52 site and local pickers will bid on supplying it (please nobody PM me, I'm tired of trying to help fussy people).

Ignore the fuss "expensive air filter". I posted cheap filters you can stack 2 (85-86 Toyota MR2, Wix 46070 or Fram CA4282), and this wasn't rocket-science to solve. You also need the 1985 rubber tee (or silicone tee) to run blow-by oil to the oil drain and don't forget to grab the mounting brackets (1 at bottom, 2 at top) and the inlet duct. My 1984 had the side inlet hole and most of the mounting holes. BTW, notice I eliminated that stupid "aux water pump" in both my cars. Photo is my 1985 CA 300D with an earlier engine (1982?).
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Turbo Intake Modification 1982 300SD-air-filter.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2017, 04:22 PM
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That's a clean setup. What's "Ecology?"

Yep, see my post above. 390 psi was a wishful memory. I'm more like 300. It's ok, the car is still wonderful. I used a harbor freight glow plug pressure gauge. I was suspicious of the reading and the seal wasn't good at the quick connect.

I feel totally dumb after changing up my seal. I literally looked in the wrong place on the Peach website for the seal and thought it was NLA. Doh!!! I would have done it stock had I seen the seals for the low price there.

Anyhow, it is what it is. I'm going to go for a drive.
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82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles
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  #15  
Old 07-03-2017, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog View Post
I think the poster means that by having a leak at the U-tube, the engine could suck in grit and contaminants that would get into the cylinder walls and score them, which would lower compression over time.
Pressure in that elbow (post turbo) not vacuum as in the filter (pre turbo) if I am seeing the mod correctly. So maybe a loss of boost where you will hear a hiss from loosing pressure.

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