I took an old heater core hose, old cheap garden hose and a piece of the flex left over from plumbing a water filteration system I designed for heavy well water a few years back.

Of course I removed the block plug on the right side of the engine. The only problem I had was finding the torque for the bolt. I didn't have a replacement for the aluminum washer on the drain bolt so I filed and sanded the surfaces smooth. If someone can tell me what the torque spec is on this bolt I'll get on with my life.

FYT I've attached pics of the hookup.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I always use the T connector from Prestone you can put in the heater hose. Seems to do well if you keep the engine and hose running.

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82 240d 4 speed manual. stripped parts car-PM me for requests
85 300d daily driver. Nice reliable beater always a work in progress unknown miles-odom works when it wants
95 E300d. daily driver or trip taker 220k
97 F250 4x4 7.3 turbo ext cab, 8'bed
78 Pontiac Bonneville-my 1st car bought new by parents, my high school graduation present in 1988-sits in garage. needs to come out of mothball

I went waterless with Evan's coolant. Haven't looked back.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Spec is: torque until it stops leaking. That's why the FSM procedure ends with a statement about bringing the engine up to operating temperature and checking for leaks....

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Well, I put about 30-40 ft/lbs on it to start with. I twisted it pretty hard and set the torque wrench on 40 and it didn't click but it did on 30 so it's pretty tight now. I felt the aluminum washer crush a bit so I'm feeling like it's gonna be OK.

I've decided to flush the entire system with citric acid instead of just the block. It's going to be a couple weeks to afford a good cheap pump and I have to move on with this project in the meantime and get the condenser, radiator on with everything I need to do to put the belts on the alt and PS pump. This has all been a long time coming. I rebuilt the PS gear, removed the oil filter canister and replaced the gasket there.

Every time I turn around I find something I left out of proper sequence and have to backup instead of moving forward. I reckon that goes with not knowing what you're doing.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Aluminum washers can be annealed by heating to 650f and dunking in water.

Those work good, but know that they have a reputation of leaking, so don't install it in your permanent hose. Best to get a new replacement hose and cut the T into the old hose, and install the T only to flush.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Good idea. I have actually had one leak but it was the washer under the cap. Replaced and ok. I always had one on every vehicle I have ever owned. Knock on wood no leaks yet (except the one mentioned) but first time for everything. Thanks.

Water flush is good to get started. Better is to follow w/ 1 lb citric acid and drive 200 miles or shorter for a few days, then drain and keep re-flushing w/ water. In my 2 300D's I then thoroughly dried out the blocks and heater cores (some tricks), then filled w/ Evan's waterless coolant. I sure never worried about a new aluminum washer for the drain plug, or annealing it. If you do get a small leak, I am sure it will stop as crud clogs it and the aluminum oxidizes. Don't torque too hard or the next guy will never remove it. I coated the threads w/ copper anti-seize. That was after giving up trying to remove the larger brass plug to install a block heater.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

"Next guy?" Lol, I hope, Lord willing, to be the next guy and it should be in the next couple months when I do the citric acid flush and finish this project. This is the engine I moved from an SD body to an 85 SE body, wiring and all. I still have the interior work to do including changing the driver's door and a ton of vinyl working which I know nothing about at this time.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic