I'm about to replace the engine mounts. I see the shock on the driver's side but the passenger side has nothing. I can see the hole in the frame that should take the bottom end of the shock.

This is a 1984 300D turbo.

Should it have two shocks?

__________________
1984 300D Turbo 350K 50K WVO (two tank) "Maeby"

Yep.

__________________
84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

The shocks themselves are usually good. Grab one off a yard car and it will as be you $50. Refurb the shock mount. New are over priced.

Edit: there is a flat spot on the bottom shaft that an open end wrench fits to keep the shaft from rotating when you remove the bottom nut.

Should. My 1984 300D had both when I got it. No emergency, and I doubt you will notice a difference with two. Bring a set of small ignition wrenches to the junkyard or you will never be able to remove the lower lock nut to remove it. I recall the 300SD use the same shock, but the upper mount is different (inverted for more space or such). Most upper mounts are degraded. I filled the gap w/ black polyurethane (PL1 gutter seal from Home Depot), which seems to last.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I think 8mm is the size of the nut on the shaft. Perhaps 10mm hold the mount. Probably 8mm open end on the shaft to keep it from turning.

I have two used ones if you are interested.

__________________
1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

It does have the passenger side shock after all, I was just looking in the wrong place. It's in front of the engine mount, unlike the driver side which was aft of the mount.

Here's another dumb question. I've disconnected both 8mm allen bolts to the engine arms, and both shocks. I'm jacking with a thick board under the oil pan. I jack about 4 inches and the engine doesn't budge, instead the whole front end lifts. I didn't go further for fear of damaging the oil pan. How far do I need to go before the engine starts to lift above the mounts? And could there be something else holding it to the frame?

__________________
1984 300D Turbo 350K 50K WVO (two tank) "Maeby"

You did remove the through-bolt to the engine mount right (not the shock mount, the shocks are just there to dampen vibration)? If not, you're lifting the entire car with the engine mounts!

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I had similar trouble that was driving me nuts for hours - was just the weight coming off the springs raised the car chassis to the point my jack lifting the engine ran out of lift...

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

The engine was heavier than I guessed. Another inch and it started to lift. Thanks for the response.

__________________
1984 300D Turbo 350K 50K WVO (two tank) "Maeby"

It is actually 7mm for the shaft, 10mm for the nut.

__________________

All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html