|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
New Radiator question
Hi Folks
i have a 1991 w201 2.5D with ac i need a new radiator because the old was leaking very badly i used all kindes of glues but in hot summer with ac on when i hit 90°C mark the radiator start leaking because of the heat and the water pressure so i decided to buy another one thats why im here so Do you think its better to buy a used one from junk yard ? me i want a new one but a mechanic told me that the new ones are crapy and its better to take one from another benz also is there any diffrences betwen NA radiator , NA with AC radiator and Turbo radiator because someone told me that there is 3 different types and whats radiator that can handle the extreme hot outside temperature that reaches sometimes 45°C im very so please help me
__________________
1991 190D 2.5 515K |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Radiators
Almost all for the past many years use plastic tanks and crimped fins. Your mechanic is old school and is dreaming of a brass or aluminum tanked radiator. It is true that old Benz used them but they were VERY old Benz and probably won't be found in a junkyard.
I replaced the radiator in my 1983 300CD about 3 years ago. I bought a Nissens on-line. It is a Danish company. The radiator fit perfectly and cools very well. I suggest you do the same. Cost was very reasonable. If you replace yours with one from a different model/engine you may run into physical fitting problems. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
There are variations in radiator core design, some better, some worse. But one thing is for sure: 30 years of accumulated wear and debris isn't going to work as well as new and clean.
The turbo radiator was different from the NA radiator. I've never compared, but I suspect it's larger since it required a removable top rail on the radiator surround. The turbo hoses are next to impossible to source, even from Mercedes. Still listed in the parts books, but on infinite back order. My suggestion is to buy the one that is correct for your car and don't buy into someone else's problems. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks Friends
im gonna buy a new one but i have a one more silly question i found a copper radiator with 3 rows and another aluminium one with 2 rows which better ? is there any differences ?
__________________
1991 190D 2.5 515K |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
That's not an easy answer. The vendors are making it harder by not giving you sufficient info for an informed decision. If you ask a few further questions, you'll find that the three tubes in the copper radiator are smaller than the two tubes in the aluminum radiator. Typically, the copper tubes will be around 5/8", aluminum tubes 1" or more. I know of one vendor offering "4 tube copper cores", but the tubes are just 3/8". What's critical to cooling isn't the number of tubes, it's the contact area between the fins and tubes. As a gross generalization, there will be more contact area with the larger tubes, but that's also going to depend on the pitch of the fins. Material is less of a factor: copper transmits heat better than aluminum, but copper radiators are assembled with lead, which doesn't transmit heat well. So aluminum has a slight advantage because it's brazed.
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
thanks friend i just buyed a new one
now the car runs much cooler but i dont like the quality the 26 years old BEHR radiator is stronger and even much heavier than this crap
__________________
1991 190D 2.5 515K |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Aluminum radiators are significantly lighter than copper. Not only is the material lighter, there's no heavy solder in an aluminum radiator. This isn't a disadvantage, in helps cooling. The quality of the welds is where the quality will show (or not).
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Also don't forget that the tanks and tubes aren't all full of corrosion and silt!
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
thanks friends
the poor seller tried hardly to convince me to buy copper one but i choosed the alluminium radiator and now im very happy with it now even with the extrem outside temp 44°C with ac one my car max temp is 90°C i read an excelent article that helps me alot to now the difference betwen copper and aluminium Aluminum VS. Copper-Brass Radiator: Final Thoughts my old radiator was aluminium and the new one also but i noticed that the old one is heavier and also much stronger than the new one
__________________
1991 190D 2.5 515K |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I wouldn't bother with a used radiator unless this was some rare or unusual collector car where preserving originality was important. A used radiator should be professionally cleaned and pressure tested, which negates any cost savings of buying used. Yes newish radiators have plastic end tanks that become brittle with age and heat cycling. IMO its best to consider the radiator a wear item, just like the water pump, and replace both every 120k miles. I've used Nissens brand radiators in several different cars including my '98 E300, and have not had any problems with them.
__________________
1998 E300 turbodiesel America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy! Last edited by torsionbar; 08-07-2017 at 08:17 PM. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
That's great if they're still made for your vehicle. Some of them are made of unobtainium. The SDL's are a great example, not made by anyone since 2010. Your only options are good used, or a custom-made one for $600+ Sometimes used is a good option, especially from a well-maintained vehicle.
__________________
Current stable: 1995 E320 149K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 120K (SLoL) Black Sheep: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) |
Bookmarks |
|
|