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#1
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W202 C250 TD 97' fuel shut off valve
Yesterday, I had a troube with my C250 TD in that the car just cut-out as I was acceterating to 60mph to join a motorway.
Everything looked OK when I opened the bonnet...but when I checked the fuel pipe after lift pump it was empty.... Later I discover that the voltage going to the IP shut-off valve only turns on momentarily when I turn the ignition....It goes up to 8V to 5 v for a fraction of a second... I wonder if it could be baypassed to take power from the ignition switch directly? The MB manual says it rins on 11 tp 14VDC.... I do not fancy taking it to a garage as i would anticipate an endless and costly trial and error. Of course I can't take it there either.... Advise appreciated. |
#2
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Yours is not a model we got in the USA.
I'm guessing the setup is similar to my 99 W210 with the 606.962 where there is a black plastic shutoff valve on the side of the IP which is fed power from the K40 relay located in the apratatus box under the hood. Assuming the above is correct and that yours is computer controlled (eg: has an ECU) the problem is one or the other of the two above devices. If it will restart after sitting a while, and then repeats shutdown while being driven again, the K40 relay is prob at fault. The printed circuts on the circut board crack due to age and expansion/contraction. You could pull it and examine with a good magnifying glass to see if minute cracks are present. Some poeple have sucessfully resoldered those joints......for USD$80, I'd repalce it. Takes 10 minutes. Question - You are burning diesel right? No veggie?
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#3
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Oh, well...it has just been convered to veggie...why... would that cause a problem?
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#4
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By the way, the engine is OM605.960...The kit was bought from reputable source...
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#5
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Oh, one more thing. The K40 relay is located at...passenger side in the US models?
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#6
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Quote:
Veggie is thicker viscosity than D2 and can cause problems with lift pumps and shutoff valves (SOV). Additionally all the extra plumbing involved adds another layer of complexity in figuring out what is wrong. IMO veg should be heated to +160f before being injected; usually requires a two tank system. The "dies, as if key were turned off" is usually the K40; sometimes the SOV. With your veg you should also be certain you arent getting a massive amount of air entering when fuel demand is high, as that could kill the engine too, although would prob stumble and stutter a bit before dieing.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#7
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Thanks for the info I'll check it tonight. So it is K40 with No. 540 marked on it.
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#8
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The strange thing was, I opened up the K40 and ECU to see any broken solder joints in it but did not find any...
I reseated all the connectors but did not improve anything with reagrds to the keeping the shut-off valve open...Although, I am suspecting that the MOSFET in the ECD maybe the cause...although these things are supposed to be quite reliable. So, instead of hunting down one unique MOSFET out of several 1000's, I decided to take a method that would guarantee a result. Remedy: Take power directly from the ignition circuit via 10A fuse, feed it into the shut-off valve. Result: Engine works, car drives, but EPC lamp is on.... I hope the ECU does not decide to shut down the engine. However, I noticed that a rubber primer pump I have put into the fuel line palarell to the suction pump has not been sucking well...Then I checked the fuel strainer beside the fuel filter. Only to find that there was a heavy build up of asphalt like residue. Obviously, that would cause a problem too. I did not notive but is there a sensor such as feed line pressure transducer to detect condition of the filer??? |
#9
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RE/ Live wire to i/p
which terminal did you liven up m8 thankyou in advance lee
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#10
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C250 TD no starting cutting out
Hi to anyone experiencing problems particularly with their older (mid 90's onwards to about early 2001) mercedes , but probably relevant to models before and after.
particularly w202 c250 D/TD's, c300 e300 e250 D/TD etc. IF YOU GOT intermittent bad / non starting or cutting out I write this is in the hope it will save others the pain , time and money i went through. I was determined not to give in on this one!!!! Have finally cracked many of the illusive problems many people have had with fuel and electrical issues. (I bet many perfectly good cars have been scrapped due to these type of silly problems) FIRST JOB - buy new and change crankshaft position sensor - its the easiest and cheapest job and can save you a lot of pain and wasted time/ money. (thats all my problem was in the end i think) If that does nt work carry on and check the pre fuel filter, then the main filter. Then if still no joy replace rubber fuel and return pipes and then clear plastic lines, Not a bad idea to clean fuel tank out as well if still no joy do lift supply pump, fuel shut off valve/ solenoid and fuel heater - (i doubt any of these things will be faulty though) Let me know if this helped anyone |
#11
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Wait !
You're trying to run the Double Overhead Cam OM605 on Veggie ?
The I.P. and Fuel system on those is directly comparable to OM606 (Just One More Cylinder) As advised above by other replys you've got some more "Hoops" to jump through to be able to. Surgically clean Bio-Diesel (As in De-watered until the cows come home) would give you a better chance... [BUT If T'were Mine I'd do "Straight" Diesel]
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
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