Valve Springs

I had some real problems with this used engine I had installed in the 81 300SD. I had given up on the old engine about six months after purchasing the car and went with a used. I was told how really really great this motor was and it was and all.
Put in used engine and within two weeks had it out with bad rear main seal. At that time I looked it over very carefully and determined that this engine may be ok, but it had most definetely sat out for a very long time. So I changed rear main seal and every other gasket I could get to. So what else could go wrong now?
The #5 cyl intake valve began making a louder and louder racket and then the cam follower broke in half. No one could give any real help so I changed the cam follower. It went for a week and broke in half, just like the first one.
This time I pursued everyone who knew of any such thing. The answer came back that the valve springs will lose their strength if the engine is not turned over and that valve is the lucky one to be left compressed. I bought a new spring and went in this weekend and changed it. Sure enought the spring was at least 4 mm shorter that the new. Once I got everything set up and the valves adjusted came time to start it. A little rough for a few and then finally it runs soo smooth... Nothing like taking the long way aroung the barn. I did check the compression again. It has not lost anything. Reads high, at 410 lbs. I am now told this is caused by some crud buildup in the cyl. All five read between 405 and 410 lbs. Anyone know if this to will pass?

[engatwork]

Those numbers sound pretty good to me. I would run some diesel fuel conditioner through it for a couple tanks but if it cranks/runs good I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Been using Stanadyne since I had the injectors rebuilt. Shop told me this was as good a fuel conditioner as is found. I did notice the vehicle starts easier with the Stanadyne added. Will almost always start on the first turn, with of without using the glow plugs. With the glow plugs it runs much smoother for the first few though.
I would swear that the exhaust has a different smell with this in the fuel. Well, maybe I have been under the hood too long now.

[Nate Stanley]

O.D.--

I have a suspicious noise in my 300D and was wondering if I could compare notes with your situation.

I've gone thru my valve adjustment twice on a 234K engine, all valves are + - .001 within specs, and cam followers appeared OK the last time I had the valve cover off.

There is a tapping noise that sounds like it's in the upper end of the engine, so your post made me woder if I have the same problem. It almost sounds like a small gasket leak at an exhaust port, but I can't detect the smell of burnt fuel under the hood.

1) Could you describe more closely the nature of the noise you had, and whether it was worse under acceleration that coasting,

and

2) were you able to remove the springs with the head still in place?

Thanks,