Your car will drive really nice if you do the entire front end including ball joints and bushings. I wouldn't take the front end apart without replacing everything that is easier with the spring removed.

Regarding brakes, run them until something is needed. I tend to do an entire system so I don't have to come back. Once the system is completely up to specs, you don't have to keep returning to do what you saved (actually only postponed) a few dollars in parts.

You don't want to do pads and rotors only to need hoses, bearings and calipers 6 months down the road.

Both the 84 & 85SD needed most. The 85 had been professionally maintained before I got it. Things were still needed.

Make your list when you get the car. Consider the list when buying. It will keep you from getting car fever and prevent over paying.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

That's my line of thinking... Thanks for that good bit of advice.

I changed a lot of parts in my car before their time was up. I guess if I did it all again I'd restrict preemptive fixes to things that would fail catosrophically. That being said some inspection is due before changing. I moved a couple of years ago and I didn't have a garage for a few months. Before I left I changed a bunch of stuff that was still good but old.

Here are some of my catastrophic failure fears for my 126. May be a little different from your 300D.

1) as mentioned above oil cooler lines. Look for the drip or weeping oil. Change failure of old ones can be a real show stopper.

2) same as above for tranny cooler lines.

3) pull out brushes on alternator and see how much life you have left on the brushes.

4) weeping or surface cracked CV boots can be changed

5) how old is your battery?

6) sticky ignition and trunk locks need to be addressed early before a lockout

7) B2 piston on 722 trans. Do this before it fails.

I cannot think of more but you get the idea. If it is going to sneak up on you and give you a big surprise then change it. Otherwise just wait till it breaks (like door locks and windows) and fix it. Inspection before changing will limit unnecessary repairs.

Good luck.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

For sure change the oil and filter, since unknown history. Check the transmission fluid on the stick. If not bright red and/or smells burnt, change it and the filter (remove pan, new gasket). Ditto for coolant and brake fluid. Indeed, if in Europe or any humid area, you should flush thru new glycol fluid every 4 yrs. Not needed if DOT 5 (silicone). Insure the rubber "test caps" on the brake reservoir seal well (no cracks). Brake pads and rotors can be inspected, and you have a dash wear indicator.

For suspension, jack it up and inspect, tugging on all components to look for movement. Rubber bushings can have surface cracks and still be fine. If they don't they are almost certainly still fine. If rubber boots have cracks, you can clean well and wrap w/ self-fusing silicone tape until such time you have it disconnected to add a new boot.

Investigate improved parts and supplies. In my 300D's (and most vehicles), I installed silicone hose for vacuum and coolant, Viton hose for injector returns, DOT5 brake fluid, Evans Waterless Coolant, Duracool refrigerant w/ PAO68 oil, barrier AC hose, and 2-wire hydraulic hose for HP power steering hose. Don't get cheap motor mounts, since they soon degrade and/or cause vibrations from the start. All cost more, but worthwhile to me for longer life and/or less maintenance.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

How do you clear the drainage tubes of debris?

Heavy gauge fishing/weedwacker line. Avoid wire for fear of puncturing the rubber tubes.

Are the body drainage tubes rubber?

Partially metal, partially rubber.

BTW, Orange Haggis sounds awful. The grey stuff is bad enough.

It's just like a meaty Terry's Chocolate Orange. It's lovely so it is!

The appellation was given to me over a decade ago by a piping buddy because of my less than trim physique and my Ulster Irish origins.