Front crank seal om602
 

My 92 has a front crank seal leak. I watched it leak while it was running. How bad of a job is this? Can I use an airgun on the crank bolt to take it out? When retorquing it, what is the procedure. I'm a bit confused by the service manual.

yes, you can use an airgun to take it off, but I would make sure to torque it properly when installing.

just put the pulley back on the crank nose, snug it up, then lock the crank in place somehow with whatever method works for you. I forget the setting, but look at w124performance website for info.

It is really quite easy, hardest part is the prep and making space to do the work well- I recall not having much room in a w201 to do that... cant say for the w124.

You may opt to avoid this work for a little while by pushing the seal further into the timing chain cover. It could buy you some time.

Also, try to find a replacement collar for the pulley. It is where the seal makes contact- yours is likely worn and contributing to the leak significantly.

Other tricks involve coming up with a way to ensure that the seal is set into the timing cover properly since there are no stops on it. You just set it where you want it and its easy to misalign it

Can you get an air gun in there with the engine in the car? An angle drive gun isn't going to have enough torque.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

"C" front Seal Bolt
 

3/4 Inch Breaker Bar
(With assist from Aluminum 2 ton jack Handle as "Cheater")
will take it off Easily.

This is what you'll need to put the Main Bolt back in Correctly:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-808.html

The FSM is confusing because it shows Three different H B / Pulley combos.
You have the "A" version.
There's also two different Main Bolt strengths used: 8.8 hardness and 10.9 hardness
(AND of course Two differing Torque procedures)
make sure you use the Bolt strength applicable to your engine.

But If you've the '92 you'll have three separate pieces
(In order of Insertion: Hub / Harmonic Balancer / Serpentine Pulley.)

If you're doing this in the chassis remove the Plastico "Inspection Cover"
from the rear portion of the Oil Pan and use a "Toothed Immobilizer" to
Lock the Flywheel.
Caution: Use ONLY 90mm replacement Bolts to secure the T. I. to the
bottom of the Oil Pan.
(Use only during procedure,replace regular bolts after finished)

This is the tool:
Mercedes Benz Flywheel Locking Tool | eBay

(There are "Factory" tools mentioned in the FSM for proper insertion depth of the main seal But,I'm reluctant to price them.)

As mentioned earlier in this post GSXR's website will walk you through it.