I'm an idiot.
In the process of fixing an air leak on my IP I managed to strip the bleed screw slot to the point where it constantly has a steady stream of fuel flowing out of it.
For the moment I stuck a piece epoxy putty over it and while this does a good job of keeping fuel in, there is now no real way to bleed air out of the pump.
What's the best solution here? Tap and find a slightly larger screw?

Can you be more specific? Which year and model? Bleeder screw?

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

It's a 1973 220D with the old style pump where you have to manually change the oil.
The bleeder screw (referred to as a vent screw in the manual) is a basically just a bolt with a hole in it located near the delivery valve holders.
I stripped the hole rather than the screw.

Wow, now that is an old school piece of German engineering.

Can you tap the hole you stripped, maybe?

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That's what I was thinking, but my concern there is metal shavings getting into the pump.

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi

Right, I was going to mention that. If the pump is off the car and drained, could you use a magnet to remove shavings and/or flush them out before reinstalling?I just don't see what you can do for the stripped hole besides trying to re-tap it? Maybe someone else will have a better idea.

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Magnets don't make much of an impression on nonferrous metals.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

The only way you can really drill and tap the hole would be to remove the pump from the car and invert it while you do the work, then flush it well while still inverted. The pump body is aluminum, no magnet is going to help you out here. The last thing you want in the fuel rack is aluminum shavings of any variety. If you stripped the screw out, you already have aluminum shards down in the fuel rack.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I've never actually had the thing off before, how big a job is it?

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi

Doh! Didn't realize it was aluminum. I mean, I guess it looks like aluminum, lol.

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I have seen the picture don't understand "strip the bleed screw slot". Is it just the screwdriver slot that is no good or is it actually the IP Housing Threads or the threads on the screw?

Also if you had to bleed the pump now the way it is you could raise the front of the car and loosen all of the Fuel Injection Hard Lines at the Pump right above the delivery valve holder and crank the engine. It ought to bleed the air out fairly quickly if the Fuel Injection Hard lines are were previously filled with fuel up to the Injectors. Tighten them back up to start.

Otherwise you could loosen the Fuel Injection Hard Lines at the Injectors and crank till the air is out and then of course tighten them back up to start.

If you are going to drill and tap to a larger size put wheel bearing grease in the grooves of the drill and the tap so it traps the metal chips in the grease. In order not to melt the grease turn the drill bit slowly (that usually means you need a variable speed drill motor).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Magnets do not make impressions on any metals. It does attract ferrous metals.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

The threads on the housing.
I replaced the crush washer and torqued it down with a ratchet.
Not the brightest move.

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi