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  #16  
Old 09-29-2017, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
How to bleed the secondary fuel filter:
FSM job 07.1-140

Three different sizes of banjo bolts -> three different threads => can only be assembled one way.
Second diagram shows the routing of the fuel lines to the secondary fuel filter.
Mercedes-Benz Teilekatalog (Ersatzteile online)

You may need to replace the crush washers on the banjo fitttings.
Sometimes you can re-use them without getting an air leak.
All the banjo fittings have same thread and they go in all the holes... is there a case that someone has modified it in the past?

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  #17  
Old 09-30-2017, 12:05 AM
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Do you have a spin-on secondary fuel filter or do you have the secondary fuel filter that fits inside a canister?

A photo would be helpful.
I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that you had the early fuel canister housing style that takes a drop-in secondary fuel filter.

If you have the spin-on fuel filter, the banjo bolt with the bigger head mounts horizontally to the fuel inlet port (arrow points in) on the fuel filter head.
For the smaller headed banjo bolts, one mounts horizontally to the fuel outlet port (arrow points out),
and the the other vertically mounts to the top of the fuel filter head to seal the banjo fitting (with two nipples) that allows excess fuel to return to the tank.
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79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #18  
Old 09-30-2017, 01:42 AM
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Alec. Attached are the pics showing three different types of banjo bolts that are same height and thread!

This really threw me off...

These three came of the fuel canister with a drop in filter. It was stupid of me not to note the different ones while disassembly...
Attached Thumbnails
W115 1974 240D stalls after 10-15 seconds-img_0136.jpg   W115 1974 240D stalls after 10-15 seconds-img_0139.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 09-30-2017, 11:59 AM
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I don't have a fuel canister housing to look at and verify, but I believe the hollow bolt with the largest side holes is the one that goes to the (side) feed line coming from the lift pump.

The middle size goes to the (bottom) line feeding the IP and the small one goes to the (top) fuel return line from the IP back to the tank.

The aluminum crush washer is heavily deformed on the bolt and probably won't reseal.
I have extras if you can't find them right away.
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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Last edited by Alec300SD; 09-30-2017 at 12:34 PM. Reason: typos
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  #20  
Old 09-30-2017, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
I don't have a fuel canister housing to look at and verify, but I believe the hollow bolt with the largest side holes is the one that goes to the (side) feed line coming from the lift pump.

The middle size goes to the (bottom) line feeding the IP and the small one goes to the (top) fuel return line from the IP back to the tank.

The aluminum crush washer is heavily deformed on the bolt and probably won't reseal.
I have extras if you can't find them right away.
Thanks Alec for the advice and offering me the crush washers. i did get some from autozone but did not use them, since i didn't know how the bolts went.

So after this debacle, i should be careful during disassembly...
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  #21  
Old 09-30-2017, 02:52 PM
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I find taking a photo of each part during disassembly greatly aids in reassembly.

I like the look of the fuel filter canister, but the design can cause running problems if you get water in your fuel.
Any excess water will settle in the bottom of the canister and get into the IP.

This may actually be the cause of your initial symptoms.

You may want to consider upgrading to the later spin-on fuel filter head (615-092-02-08).
The fuel is drawn off the top of the spin-on fuel filter, so you get some water separator type protection if water accumulates in the bottom of the spin-on filter.

As an added bonus, you can also modify the spin-on fuel filter head head to filter more finely.
Fuel filter upgrade
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79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #22  
Old 09-30-2017, 04:02 PM
Shadetree
 
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Any chance the engine is starved for air? Rat's nest in there somewhere?
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  #23  
Old 10-03-2017, 12:00 AM
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Clemson88, I cleaned all air filter passages, throttle body and engine bay.
I am in the process of resetting the control linkages to appropriate lengths before attempting to restart, but there is a mystery tool - 115 289 30 23 00... How do I get my hands on the specs of this tool?
Attached Thumbnails
W115 1974 240D stalls after 10-15 seconds-screenshot-2017-10-02-22.58.17.png  
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  #24  
Old 10-03-2017, 03:09 AM
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I searched and can't find any listed specs or other references for the adjusting gauge.
Unlikely, but maybe a forum member has one to lend??


If not, you can get a good approximation of the dimensions of the tool:

On the second page of the pdf (30.4-300/2 F2) on the lower drawing (127-8385/2) the whole adjusting gauge is visible with fixed reference points on the engine.

Measure the distance from the banjo bolt (at the top of the adjusting gauge) to the fixed pivot point of the intermediate lever on you own engine.

If you measure the same distance on (an enlarged copy of the lower figure) you can get the conversion factor to convert the dimensions of
adjusting gauge in the photo to approximate the actual dimensions of the adjusting gauge.

Then you can fashion your own adjusting gauge from a wooden paint stir stick, etc.
Hope this helps.
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79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #25  
Old 10-03-2017, 10:12 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
I searched and can't find any listed specs or other references for the adjusting gauge.
Unlikely, but maybe a forum member has one to lend??


If not, you can get a good approximation of the dimensions of the tool:

On the second page of the pdf (30.4-300/2 F2) on the lower drawing (127-8385/2) the whole adjusting gauge is visible with fixed reference points on the engine.

Measure the distance from the banjo bolt (at the top of the adjusting gauge) to the fixed pivot point of the intermediate lever on you own engine.

If you measure the same distance on (an enlarged copy of the lower figure) you can get the conversion factor to convert the dimensions of
adjusting gauge in the photo to approximate the actual dimensions of the adjusting gauge.

Then you can fashion your own adjusting gauge from a wooden paint stir stick, etc.
Hope this helps.
Alec300SD, you are a genius. I will try to follow your instructions that makes lot of sense, this week and update everyone of you on the outcome.
Great forum, with very knowledgeable members!
thank you.
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  #26  
Old 10-03-2017, 11:19 PM
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"Necessity is the mother of invention"

Hopefully, adjusting the control linkages cures your stalling symptoms.
Looking forward to the update.
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79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #27  
Old 10-05-2017, 05:33 AM
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Trevor Hadlington
 
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Main problem with engine stoping would be air leaking in to the fuel pipe joints. O rring faulty or missing .
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2017, 12:52 AM
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Thanks Team,
No luck yet. I am planning to send the injectors and IP to an professional to check them
I shouldn't have cleaned them and just run the liquid moly to clean the internals...
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2017, 01:43 AM
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I re-read your first post, when you initially cleaned your injectors, how did you clean them?
Did you dissassemble them and use brass scrapers and brushes, or a chemical soak in brake cleaner, biodiesel, carb cleaner, etc?
If disassembled, did you lap the injector halves, and pop test afterwards?

If you need your injectors expertly rebuilt and balanced at a very resonable cost, contact forum member greazzer at his site: https://dieselfuelinjector.guru/

He rebuilt two sets of injectors for me, where I supplied new nozzles and the old injectors.
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79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #30  
Old 11-21-2017, 07:32 PM
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Thanks Akec,
I separated the injector halves and cleaned each of the item by soaking it in the carb cleaner overnight. once clean I out them together. I did not lap them or pressure check as I don't have the device. as of now no luck. I am planning to remove the engine from the bay and clean the bay and engine and then try to start it outside the car.

your suggestion is good for injector services and I may send mine there to get serviced as it seems very reasonably priced.

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