That's a tough call. I'd probably start and run it just to check.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Ok will do

Well?

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Still bottoning up. I had to finish installing rubber seals in my 1984 m1009 k5 blazer so I can sell it for some money to fix the Mercedes up with but should be all done tomorrow.

Ok it's done all put back together. Started it up after three weeks without the battery in it and it's dipped below freezing, started right up like a hot diesel in the summertime, and way quieter than it was before. Took it for a ride around the block after a little warmup and it was so quiet, like a different car. Before I did any work, the car shifted very hard everytime it shifted, now it shifts like a dream. I'm very impressed with the way this all worked out. Only 1 problem. It made a funny sound while driving and when I parked it in the garage I noticed a long line of oil on the ground. I opened the hood and saw that oil was everywhere! Upon closer examination I saw that it was all coming from the valve cover gasket. I had put a new one on but I guess I didn't tighten the valve cover down tight enough. sure will next time. Thanks again everyone who posted!!!!! Have a good one.

Please post your secret of starting a diesel without a battery.

Elon Musk got nothing on you!

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Careful on tightening that cam cover gasket! The torque spec is low (14nm/10lb/ft). Overtightening is likely to warp it since it is held down with only 4 nuts. This will result in a leak that will never stop unless the cover is replaced.

Thank you rocky raccoon for the insight. I took the valve cover off again this morning to check the timing and when the cam marks line up, the crank counterbalance guage reads 0 dead on. I'm now cleaning the head contact area to make sure the valve cover seats properly. I've read a slew of ways to attatch the valve cover. Some say use permatex some say don't some say use oil on the gasket others say lay it on dry. What's the most efficient way?

I put a dab of grease in the gasket channel just to hold the gasket onto the valve cover. No need for any type of "stick-em" for the head surface.

Double check your tensioner gasket area for leaks.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Cool, thanks Mike

I always put the valve cover gasket on dry. What usually happens on a deal like this is that the gasket slipped off the valve cover while maneuvering it around to get it on. If you take it back off, you'll find it rolled off somewhere.

Resto108 I was just going over the valve cover and found a few things. For starters one of the shims is damaged and not the same length as the other. Also when placing the valve cover back on without the gasket (to check for warping) the cam chain bottoms out and leaves a significant gap all around the valve cover to head contact area. I think I need a new cover.

Forgot to mention that its easy to get the wire from the intake overpressure switch caught under the valve cover too. Between the valve cover and firewall. Not sure what you mean by one of the shims being damaged. There is not a great deal of clearance between the chain and valve cove, so I wouldn't put too much on that observation. I wouldn't worry about it being too straight, it'll flex quite a bit. Bottom line is, it worked fine and apparently didn't leak before you took it off, right?

Resto, I filed down the shims and the valve cover fits fine now and no oil leaks. Appreciate your guys help

Wow! You took a big risk, and could have destroyed your engine, if you did not validate the correct location of the TDC pointer.

If the TDC pointer is correct, and if now you have only 1 degree of stretch, then you do not need to replace the chain.

If you had 17 degrees of stretch, and you just "fixed" that by moving the chain on the camshaft sprocket, then you need to replace the chain before it breaks and destroys the engine.

How do the teeth on the camshaft sprocket look? If they have a flat area at the very tip, that's good. If the ends of the sprocket teeth are sharp, the camshaft is severely worn to "fit" a worn out and stretched chain, and both should be replaced, and the sprocket on the crankshaft needs to be examined to see if it needs to be replaced.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC