How do I deal with stripped torx bit on axle shaft?
 

I stripped one of them and that put the nail in the coffin on my axle swap job.

What can I do about this stripped bolt?

Can you post a picture? Do you know someone with a welder?

Maybe try something like this

http://m.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/bolt-extractor/irwin-5-pcs-bolt-grip-base-set/532381_0_0?cmpid=PS:3:3:1&s_kwcid=AL!5142!3!218588964477!!!!294682000766!&ef_id=WUaGcwAAAV9lS5_O:201 71014114121:s

You might want to begin by using the right tools for the job at hand. There are no Torx fasteners in any period Mercedes. They are XZN bolts. If you use a Torx bit, it will fit, but promptly strip out the head. First clean the head thoroughly and try the right bit. If that still doesn't work, you can try an extractor, although you may not have enough room. The last desperate solution is to grind off the head and remove the axle, then use a stud extractor or pipe wrench to remove the remaining stud.

What size is it?

There is various types of easy out type tools. in your case the shoter ones similar to in the attached picture would likely work. Some of them have coarser splines then the ones in the picture.

If you are speaking of the bolts holding on the Axle to the flange on the differential you could also grind off the head of the bolt. When you pull off the axle there sould be enough bolt shaft left to get a vice gripes on it.

Often when you grind the head off you find that the bolt itself is rather loose.

If it is badly rusted in yo can use penatrating oil and heat with a propane torch to hep loosen it.

Try this.
 

Use liquid soap or cutting oil to keep it cool and a magnet to extract the grindings.

<img src="http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=144696&stc=1&d=1507990253">

^ This. It's not a torx. XZN aka "triple square" looks sort of like a torx, but it has 12 points instead of 6. Like Mxfrank said, If you used a torx, you done messed up...

Weld a nut to the mangled end and turn it out to extract. For re-installation, replace the damaged bolts, and don't attempt to torque them down with a torx socket or they'll just strip out immediately again.

FOG:

Remember this from a week ago?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Of Giants View Post
I only have axle shaft photos at the moment.
Inboard of cv

https://www.flickr.com/gp/133071441@N02/w9Da08

Outboard of cv

https://www.flickr.com/gp/133071441@N02/7Ns5LX
Note that the inboard CV joint is attached to the differential stub shaft with six bolts. When those bolts are removed the CV joint can be separated from the flange of the stub shaft. The differential cover is not removed, and the stub shafts stay in place. The bolts that retain the CV joint require a triple-square (aka, XZN) driver to remove. The driver may be either 10mm or 12mm (probably 10). They ARE NOT hex sockets (aka, Allen).

A single bolt retains the splined outboard stub shaft in the wheel hub. When that is removed the axle assembly can then be withdrawn to the inside.
Reply With Quote

I've had good results by hammering in the next larger size bit into the stripped head (you are cutting/ biting/ forcing the bit into the metal). If that does not work, then the extractors are your next best bet. If the extractors don't work, the last resort and least appealing is grinding the head off which can result in damaging the axle boot if you're not careful.

I'll get some xzn bits soon, thanks for the responses. Hopefully it comes out.

A something to try if the proper bit does not work.

Get a good fresh sharp vise grip and long tapered alignment punch or short pin punch that fits inside the axle bolt. ( Long pin punches usually bend. )

Using the punch, hammer on the bolt. Will will impress the bolt head into the surface of the part reducing bolt tension. Use vise grips to unwind the bolt.