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#1
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Tensioner-Tensioning Rail Contact on New 617 Timing Chain Install
Hi:
Last weekend I replaced the timing chain and also installed a new tensioner on my '84 300D 617 Turbo. The car has 185K miles on it, and the old chain, which I believe is original, was off by about 6 degrees, so I decided to replace it. All went well, but I've noticed that with the new chain and tensioner in place and now under tension, the end of the tensioner pin/bolt is somewhat offset from the corresponding stub on the tensioning rail. It looks like about 60% or so of the tensioner pin is making contact with the stub on the tensioning rail. I've attached a photo to illustrate. Is this normal or is it going to be a problem? Also, if I do need to replace the tensioning rail, can I do this without having to remove the chain again or take the front of the engine apart? Just wondering if anyone has run into this problem before. Thanks, Eric |
#2
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I can't say.
Quote:
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#3
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I've seen it before and did not see where it caused any kind of an issue.
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Jim |
#4
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Seen it many times, in fact I've never seen one that wasn't like that. I think one of the engineers forgot to add a zero somewhere is all.
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#5
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My 1984 300D looked just like that. Perhaps from the same Billy-Bob's night shift as yours. The old guide rail had chain grooves at an angle, so I figured it had worn thus, but the new guide with a fresh flat surface also wanted to sit cocked, so I fixed 'er by sliding a short metal tube to keep the two cylinders aligned. I recall I used copper tube, so if it comes free, it shouldn't hurt anything. I don't recall such an offset when I looked at my 1985 300D.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#6
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Weird. On my '87 wagon with OM603, I had that issue as well. In my case, the pins on the rail and the tensioner were deeply worn at the offset area. I replaced both, and they lined up perfectly.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#7
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Apparently the geometry and distance from the rail mounting pin to its tensioner stub requires more precision than what the casting and machining of the rail provides. What is it--like 8 or 10 inches?
I had the same problem with my new tensioner rail. Not only did the rail and tensioner mis-align, but the chain also was not perfectly square. The old rail had worm pretty significantly from its own mis-alignment to the tensioner and I believe it was original. So I guess it was no big deal for the MB engineers. But things like this bother me. My solution was to gently pry the rail into alignment. The casting was relatively soft and it didn't take much force. No problems since. YMMV
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1981 300TD 310k miles 1970 280sel 172k miles 1966 230 Fintail 162k miles "Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?" |
#8
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Thanks everyone--I appreciate the comments. If this isn't a critical issue I guess I can get by without having to to anything more about it.
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