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  #31  
Old 10-25-2017, 11:52 AM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
Power loss and noise: I like the idea of a leak somewhere that is bleeding off the turbo boost. I also hear some rattling, maybe the air cleaner? An old trick is to put some rubber between the air cleaner housing and the valve cover, a broken air cleaner mount works great for this.

Turbo spin-by-hand - sounds normal. Does it have any axial or radial play? Should be just barely perceptible radial play, no axial play.

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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #32  
Old 10-25-2017, 12:00 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,061
I'm using a short piece of radiator hose crammed between the air cleaner housing and the valve cover.
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  #33  
Old 10-25-2017, 12:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 206
NO play whatsoever in the turbo. Ill check the air cleaner again, but i just put new mounts on it. My filter is pretty old though. Also the drain tube from the air cleaner to turbo does not seal well at all. Could this be it?
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  #34  
Old 10-25-2017, 01:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Mateo, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinman View Post
NO play whatsoever in the turbo. Ill check the air cleaner again, but i just put new mounts on it. My filter is pretty old though. Also the drain tube from the air cleaner to turbo does not seal well at all. Could this be it?
It probably is the cause of the rattling you hear.

The return tube is supposed to be secured at 3 points.

The nipple on the bottom of the air cleaner should have 2 o-rings IIRC to secure the top of the return tube, it should be a tight fit.
The nipple on the oil sump should have 2 0-rings to secure the bottom of the return tube, it should also be a tight fit.
The middle of the tube should be secured to the block with a bracket and bolt.

One or more of these attachment points are not up to snuff.

Definitely change the air filter, write the date it was serviced on the foam of the filter with a broad marker pen (as a reminder for the next service).
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  #35  
Old 10-25-2017, 05:36 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 5,924
If screeching usually starts as you take off after a car start. The alternator is working harder. Usually then just a belt slipping issue. The normal test is grab the fins that cool the alternator. Just behind the pulley. If you can turn the pulley against the belt. The belt is too loose or worn.

In those rare cases where one is not sure. Rub a soap bar along the V portion of the belt. This will increase the belt traction for long enough to verify if it is a belt or something else.

Belt tension periodic needing adjusting for wear and stretching on cars went the way of history. With the advent a long time ago now of the automatic tensioners on the serpentine belts.
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  #36  
Old 10-25-2017, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
The normal test is grab the fins that cool the alternator. Just behind the pulley.
With the engine off!
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  #37  
Old 10-26-2017, 12:11 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 206
Oi! i think i found the noise. I notice that if i grab the fan after turning the car off, the noise stops. I just replaced both the fan clutch and water pump with brand new parts not even 1000 miles ago, so what could it be? Here is a video.

https://youtu.be/_FAIbX4ybaw


^on the alternator fan, i have had that issue as well before. Had to pull the alternator and tighten the nut on the pulley. Listen here:


https://youtu.be/yeEv7JH3E9w
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  #38  
Old 10-26-2017, 08:23 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 654
Was it made in China? That can turn your smile upside down really quick.

Dkr.
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  #39  
Old 10-26-2017, 09:29 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkr View Post
Was it made in China? That can turn your smile upside down really quick.

Dkr.
I ordered them from F C P e u r o. The fan clutch was Meyle, honestly dont remember what the water pump was. Graf maybe?
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  #40  
Old 10-27-2017, 11:11 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinman View Post
I ordered them from F C P e u r o. The fan clutch was Meyle, honestly dont remember what the water pump was. Graf maybe?
They advertise a lifetime warranty on everything, might be time to use that.
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #41  
Old 11-07-2017, 07:34 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 206
Felt like i should update you guys. Replaced engine mounts and the car is running like a sewing machine. Slight vibration when idling at a stop. What could it be?

Other than this, it is a whole new car. One of my engine shocks was bent in half from the stress of the mount being demolished. The bolts holding the mounts to the chassis were all missing except one.

Can't believe the difference. Car is super fluid now going down the road.

Also- the fan noise i was getting? that was the fan slapping the oil cooler line because of the collapsed engine mounts very lucky it did not cut through the line


Error 404: engine mounts not found

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  #42  
Old 11-07-2017, 08:40 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 789
Geez, this car must have felt like a dump truck prior to replacing these. Looks like they were due for replacement at least a decade ago, lol.
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  #43  
Old 11-07-2017, 08:47 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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Posts: 654
Wow, might as well have had no motor mounts.

Dkr.
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  #44  
Old 11-07-2017, 08:48 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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Posts: 654
Quote:
Slight vibration when idling at a stop. What could it be?
Rubber studs on air filter container.

Dkr.
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  #45  
Old 11-08-2017, 09:24 AM
Fold on dotted line
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SE Mich
Posts: 3,284
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinman View Post
wow thanks for all the replies. i have parked the car and im not driving it until i figure this out.

I ordered the nozzles from mercsource brand new, and properly lapped and thoroughly cleaned all the surfaces. i almost believe the injectors had never been serviced they were so bad.

but no, i actually did not pop test them, 1.) being i didn't want to buy all the stuff just to do it once and 2.) no one in my area even wanted to TOUCH the injectors. all shops local to me like to say "everybody stopped wrenching on those cars ten years ago, give it up" to hell with them

im pulling the valve cover again today to check everything out.

my primer pump actually always leaks, and when i begin to pump it, it really starts pouring fuel out. This isn't normal i suppose?

Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this car. I've never owned/worked on a diesel, much less a mercedes diesel. I'm only 21 so i have never been around these cars. my interest for them sparks from my dad owning them back when they were new, and it's just such a cool car to me.

so i'd love to get it back in good reliable shape. i have hope in this engine since the noise is intermittent.

Two items:


1. Since you bought the injectors from **************, you should be able to call them and discuss whether they pop-tested them. Discuss your issues with them as well.



2. Have you replaced all the neoprene hoses which are connected to the fuel system? I once found a problem with my nephew's car, where the rubber hose at the tank was buggered. The correct fitting had been replaced with a plumbing fitting and a piece of hose. This hose cracked and periodically sucked air. Everything up front looked perfect and I went crazy looking for the problem. Found it accidentally and lear5ned to look at the whole system when I diagnosed things, not just the commonest items. So check your fuel tank area too, lol.


Good luck!

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