Gas hot water pilot light went out, what to do? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #16 11-19-2017, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HuskyMan

My local big box store has the theromcouple in stock; I'm going up there now to buy it. I'll check out pricing on new gas hot water heaters when I'm there. I appreciate everyone's advice, it is too cold today to be without hot water......

You might not read this before you purchase one, but many of the parts for water heaters are proprietary, so the thermocouple you buy may not work (that has been my experience). It may have reverse threads, different size threads, longer/shorter etc.

ROLLGUY · #17 11-19-2017, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselmania

It's the same over on my Powerstroke forum. The rules are flexible so long as we keep politics out of it and nobody gets hurt.

So if HuskyMan talked about politics on the Powerstroke forum he would be in "hot water"?

funola · #18 11-19-2017, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Don't you use hot water to wash your hands after working on your diesel?

Yes I do. Sometimes I take a crap after washing my hands. Does that mean we can ask what's the best toilet paper on this forum?

HuskyMan · #19 11-19-2017, 03:44 PM

Photos of the on/off gas valve. It is normally in the verticle position. However, I noticed the words "off" and an arrow pointing clockwise which would put the valve in the verticle position. I'm assuming that turning the valve horizontal would be off? If I turn it horizontal is there a way to verify the gas is OFF?

The following link indicates that when the valve is turned perpendicular the gas is off.....

http://www.home-repair-central.com/removing-the-gas-burner-assembly.html

ROLLGUY · #20 11-19-2017, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HuskyMan

Photos of the on/off gas valve. It is normally in the verticle position. However, I noticed the words "off" and an arrow pointing clockwise which would put the valve in the verticle position. I'm assuming that turning the valve horizontal would be off? If I turn it horizontal is there a way to verify the gas is OFF?

The following link indicates that when the valve is turned perpendicular the gas is off.....

Removing the Gas Burner Assembly | Gas Water Heaters | Water Heaters | Plumbing | Repair Topics

The flow of gas (or whatever the valve is used for) is parallel with the handle. If the handle is perpendicular to the valve, the gas is off. You can loosen the flare nut to know for sure, a little gas will escape.

HuskyMan · #21 11-19-2017, 05:19 PM

The main supply line nut is tight......could I use PB Blaster to loosen it up? I'm assuming the nut is righty tighty, lefty loosey........

dieselmania · #22 11-19-2017, 05:29 PM

why are you removing the main supply line for a thermocouple?

HuskyMan · #23 11-19-2017, 05:33 PM

Yes, I am removing the main supply line to install a new thermocouple.

dieselmania · #24 11-19-2017, 05:55 PM

Not sure why you are doing that. Thermocouple just unscrews from the gas valve. 20 min job.

HuskyMan · #25 11-19-2017, 06:00 PM

The gas burner has to be pulled out to replace the thermocouple. That requires removing the gas supply line. Could I use Kroil instead of PB Blaster? If I remember correctly Kroil is also flammable.

Diesel911 · #26 11-19-2017, 06:18 PM

If someone has not mentioned it: The Water Heaters I had experience you rotate the dial that adjust the amount of heat to the position to light the Pilot Light and they you push the dial in. Pushing it in bypasses the Thermocouple Circuit and allows Gas to flow to the Pilot Light.
It can take a few seconds or more for the Gas to get to the Pilot Light. While are still pressing in the Dial to keep the Gas flow going light the Pilot Light. If it does not light keep trying for a bit while pressing in the Dial. If the Pilot Light does not ever light something is blocking the gas flow.

If the Pilot Light does light keep holding down the Dial for about 20 seconds or more to heat up the Thermocouple. If when you release the Dial the light goes out that is a symptom of a bad Thermocouple. However, trying lighting it again and this time wait longer for the Thermocouple to heat up.

Sometimes you can see the Tip of the Thermocouple is burned off or deformed and while you are depressing the Dial and the Pilot Light is lit you can observe if the Pilot Light flame is actually focused on the Thermocouple (if not focused the Pilot Light orifice may need cleaning).

4 Months ago the Pilot Light went out on a 2 year old Water Heater. I re-lit the Pilot Light and all has been fine since then. So it is worth trying to light it again.
If the Pilot Light stays lit turn the Dial to the heat setting you want and if the Temp in the Tan has dropped the Main Burner should go on.

As was said the Gas Company usually will come out and look at it but of course you have to wait and if it cannot be accessed from out side of the House or is behind a locked Fence someone has to be there within the several hours they say they are going to show up.

I once had some sticky brown tarry substance from the Gas Line get up into and plug a hole in that Box that controls the Gas Flow. It was right where the Gas first went into it and dispite the size of the Gas line and the size of the fittings the hole going it was like 1/8".

HuskyMan · #27 11-19-2017, 06:23 PM

I am following Diesel300's instructions and replacing the thermocouple and cleaning out the pilot light using compressed air. I don't want to worry about Kroil or PB Blaster starting a fire on or in the gas supply line. I guess I could clean off either Kroil of PB Blaster using simple green......

SD Blue · #28 11-19-2017, 07:18 PM

The best thing to use on that supply line nut is a flare nut wrench. If you round that off, you are going to have replace the controller and then it would be financially more sound to replace the entire water heater. Penetrant could be used but you need to clean it with alcohol or brake cleaner then let the fumes dissipate before attempting a light.

Usually, you don't have to remove the line but sometimes the thermocouple end is mounted so far underneath there is no alternative.

If cleaning the line and replacing the thermocouple don't resolve the problem, you may have to call the gas provider. Is this natural gas or propane?

HuskyMan · #29 11-19-2017, 07:33 PM

It is natural gas, I have a line wrench to use on it. I'll go ahead and put some Kroil on it and let it sit overnight, I'll use your suggestion for brake cleaner to clean it up before reinstalling the supply line.

dieselmania · #30 11-19-2017, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HuskyMan

The gas burner has to be pulled out to replace the thermocouple. That requires removing the gas supply line. Could I use Kroil instead of PB Blaster? If I remember correctly Kroil is also flammable.

So you are talking about the line from the control valve to the burner. It's a flare fitting, I never had one that wouldn't come off. I wonder if someone put pipe dope on it. Some people use pipe dope or teflon tape on flare fittings and compression fittings but you shouldn't do that, it will only interfere with the sealing and tightening.