My Custom 1980 W116 300SD Project Part 2 - Page 21 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vwnate1 · #**301** 05-03-2020, 09:00 PM

Two + decades ago when first I got into Mercedes Diesels there were a fair amount of sedans converted into pickup trucks, I looked into buying one but most were W116 chassis, I'm not fond of that chassis and only a W123 'T' would have a bed long enough for my needs so in the end I passed on it .

During the time I had early, naturaly aspirated W123 Diesel coupes I taught myself how to repair and maintain the wretched Klima I VAC and I still miss the freezing cold AC that I've not yet been able to duplicate in any other Mercedes even using SANDEN 7 series compressors and over sized condensers .

Squiggle Dog · #**302** 08-16-2020, 02:40 PM

I was driving when it was 120 degrees Fahrenheit out, and when I got home I noticed a puddle under the car. It was coolant. My brass expansion tank was leaking at the soldered seam. I have no income right now other than car parts I happen to sell. I drained some coolant into a pan and removed the tank. I thought that I might J-B Weld it, but it was apparent that the solder was pulling away from the brass the entire length of the tank.

Of course, the radiator shops are about an hour's drive from my house. I called the one that rodded out my radiator and tested my heater core to see if it was reasonable for me to come in early one morning on a slow day so I could wait a few hours for them to repair it, so I wouldn't have to make two trips since I would have to borrow a car and it's a long drive. They asked if it was from a Chevy or a Dodge. I told them it's from a Mercedes, and they said they never heard of such a thing, and asked if it was a drop-in or a roll-in seam. I said I thought it was a drop-in seam, and asked if I could text them pictures of it.

I texted them pictures, telling them I'd bring it in with the paint stripped off and cleaned in oxalic acid so it was less work for them, and didn't hear back that day. So, I called the next day and asked if they got the pictures. They said that they hadn't had time to look a them. They looked at them and said it looked like roll-in seam, which would be difficult to do. They said that if I wanted to bring it in at 10:30 the next day, they'd try to do it while I waited. I told them that I need to come up with some money first, and asked how much they estimate it would cost. They said that their minimum charge is $60, they'd go from there.

I sold some things on eBay and got some money. I called the shop back, and asked if I could bring it in early one morning so they could do the repair while I waited. They said, "You're the guy who wants to bring it on still on the car? It's going to have to come off the car first." I said, "That's fine." They said, "No, because we can't do it while it's on the car." I said, "I know. I never said I wanted it repaired on the car. I already took it off and that's why I have to borrow a car." I asked again what morning would work for them to do it while I waited, and they said, "Maybe December?" I said, "Never mind. I'll just make two trips, then. I'll be over."

I removed the plastic overflow tube fitting so it wouldn't melt, stripped the paint off the expansion tank, and blew off the solder with a torch and compressed air in an attempt to separate the top and bottom so I could remove dents. But, I still couldn't get it apart. I borrowed my roommate's 1991 W126 350SDL (after spending a lot of time getting the auxiliary fans working properly) and dropped off the expansion tank. I got a call the next day that it was done. I picked it up, and they had replaced the plastic fitting with a brass one, which was nice. The total was $65, which I found reasonable.

I had actually lost the radiator cap in the trunk of my roommate's car, and even after pulling out everything and scouring it, I could not find the cap. But, when I went to pick up the expansion tank, the cap was inside of a plastic bag. Fortunately, the shop didn't need it. When I got it home, I applied little bits of J-B Weld to make the solder look perfect, scuffed the tank with sandpaper, and then painted it with semi gloss black engine paint. Due to the hot weather, it came out a bit powdery, so I used rubbing and polishing compound on it to smoothen the finish.

I put the coolant I drained out back into it, and filtered it through a piece of fabric.

I cut away a section of the small hose because the end of it was cracking. I should buy new hose at some point. I seem to recall it being very expensive from Mercedes, but I want the star logo pressed into it.

I'm glad that it didn't cost a fortune to repair, and I already had the paint.

Mike D · #**303** 08-16-2020, 04:36 PM

Makes me laugh. You don't want to swap out the over flow hose because you want to keep the star logo but you use that "Micky Mouse" clamp to secure it? Mixed signals. I'm sure you have a spring clamp in your stockpile around there somewhere.

Looks like it's time to soak those battery cable ends in some baking soda before the corrosion gets ahead of you.

The tank sure looks sweet though. Good job!

ScooterABC · #**304** 08-16-2020, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

Makes me laugh. You don't want to swap out the over flow hose because you want to keep the star logo but you use that "Micky Mouse" clamp to secure it? Mixed signals. I'm sure you have a spring clamp in your stockpile around there somewhere.

Looks like it's time to soak those battery cable ends in some baking soda before the corrosion gets ahead of you.

Don't be an *******.

Squiggle Dog · #**305** 08-16-2020, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

Makes me laugh. You don't want to swap out the over flow hose because you want to keep the star logo but you use that "Micky Mouse" clamp to secure it? Mixed signals. I'm sure you have a spring clamp in your stockpile around there somewhere.

Looks like it's time to soak those battery cable ends in some baking soda before the corrosion gets ahead of you.

The tank sure looks sweet though. Good job!

What "Mickey Mouse" clamp? It's the original Gemi one with the star logo the car was made with. I do want to swap out the hose, but want to make sure I buy a good one when I do.

There's actually no corrosion on the battery terminals or clamps, and they are covered with protectant to keep them from corroding.

Thanks, though.

Mike D · #**306** 08-16-2020, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScooterABC

Don't be an *******.

You might want to consider your own advice.

Sqiggle Dog and I know each other and he knows I, in no way, would ever express anything but admiration for his work.

I doubted the clamp as it has several threads showing long past the point where it secures the hose. It may be an authentic Benz clamp but I honestly don't think it is the correct one.

Mike D · #**307** 08-16-2020, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

There's actually no corrosion on the battery terminals or clamps, and they are covered with protectant to keep them from corroding.

Thanks, though.

It's probably the way my monitor is displaying the cables. They appear to have quite a bit of greenish tinge among the strands. Just another case of, "What you see isn't necessarily reality", I imagine.

vwnate1 · #**308** 08-17-2020, 12:59 PM

Wow that really looks nice ! .

Good job .

I can see the beginning of corrosion on the battery clamps, time to remove the battery and properly wash and clean the cable ends using a plastic container and baking soda and water....

Remove the pinch bolts too clean inside their holes and dry well, after allowing to fully air dry smear with grease to prevent corrosion return return .

How you manage to do this much work in this much heat escapes me

.

Squiggle Dog · #**309** 08-17-2020, 03:20 PM

Thanks, all. In my opinion the battery terminals and clamps are cleaner than most others out there. They were already cleaned and smeared with grease. I'm not sure what you guys are seeing, except that the cable strands on the ground cable are a bit white, but I've tried everything I know to get that off of there, and it's just not coming off. I've had the clamp bolts shiny and they just rust within a week because there's no plating left, so I stopped messing with it. It's never going to be perfect, and I'm one of the few people who actually give my battery terminals and clamps regular cleaning and attention. Meanwhile, most others are driving around with big globs of corrosion completely engulfing them.

Mike D · #**310** 08-18-2020, 10:46 AM

Grease, especially here in Az, is only a temporary "fix" for sealing the terminals.

I use the Permatex High Tack gasket sealer. It's a bit bit messy to apply but it seals well and looks good. Comes in a brush able form and you get enough in one small can to last for a long time.

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-gasket-sealant/?locale=en_us

Squiggle Dog · #**311** 10-28-2020, 10:13 PM

At some point prior to my ownership, the driveshaft heat shield had disappeared. It keeps the driveshaft center bushing from getting cooked by the exhaust heat. Since I replaced that bushing recently, I felt pressure to replace the heat shield.

I removed one from the 280SE parts car I had, but it didn't fit because the bolt pattern is different. I'm not in a good financial position, but ROLLGUY shipped one to me for free off of a 300SD he was getting rid of. I really appreciate his generosity.

You can see the difference in the bolt pattern when they are side by side. The one from the 280SE also has an extra add-on piece which the 300SD didn't have. I could have installed it, but didn't feel like putting an additional screw hole in the body.

The washers were deformed from being overtightened.

I hammered them flat again.

I had bought new rubber washers (116-987-02-41) that go between the shield and body about a year ago. The red silicone ones that go on the outside weren't available, but fortunately they last longer than the rubber ones.

Squiggle Dog · #**312** 10-28-2020, 10:33 PM

The heat shield needed to be initiated before installation by baptising in biodiesel followed by anointing with Blue Magic metal polish so it would be pure enough to be worthy of becoming part of the dark underbelly of my car, which is actually the cleanest part. I removed rust from the bolts and steel washers, then painted them silver.

The hardware goes bolt, fender washer, silicone washer, heat shield, rubber washer, then small steel washer.

It's so nice to have it in place.

Every part counts, even if it's not seen.

I was pleased to see that the other parts of the undercarriage are still tidy.