Need help on replacing rear shocks and springs without using sprng compressor.
 

I'll start out buy saying I've never worked on suspension a day in my life, so I have not even the slightest clue on where I should start, No such thing as being to specific with me or giving too much "obvious info".

I quite honestly don't trust myself using a spring compressor and I also really just want to avoid buying one to get the job done. From what I've heard it is possible but there a quite a bit more steps involved.

Currently the car sags in the rear and dips forward with even the slightest application of the brakes which annoys me, it was like this when I got the car.

Where can shall I begin?

Maybe others know, but doesn't the SDL have air bag rear suspension?

Shocks can be replaced with no problems but Please Fatha, if you have springs to replace take your car to a suspension shop if you are uncomfortable with using a spring compressor.

Standard shocks and springs, bags or hydraulics.
I'm afraid of being charged an arm and leg just because I have the three point star on the hood. The only shops that can do it or Merc shops right?

Being ' afraid' you are being charged an arm and a leg is better than LOSING a hand or fingers or eyes.... Springs are dangerous... use the proper equipment.... pay someone with the experience to Supervise you doing it perhaps....
I recommend that on Brake work where people are not familiar with the tricks to be sure they work properly.....

I THINK you can RENT the spring compressor .. ???? Check on that....

The Baum tool?

You don't need a spring compressor to change the shocks. Replacing them will help out a LOT.

Unfortunately you do need a spring compressor for the springs, and the springs are an issue on these cars. The springs and rubber pads get tired and you get that "saggy ass" syndrome - especially with a full tank of gas and passengers in the rear seat. Mine does it too, but I'm not doing a thing to it until I have the time and money to rebuild the entire rear suspension. I installed the Bilstein "heavy duty" shocks on mine and it made a profound difference in the ride without being rough or jarring.

Someone on this forum rents the Klann tool....can't remember who....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ytWwUdA-r8

Wrong!
 

Don't get caught in the Benz mystique. In the final analysis they are just cars. Things like suspension maintenance and brakes are about the same for all cars. No special equipment or tools needed. Any competent shop specializing in such things can easily do the jobs you describe as needed. Midas?

There are many threads in the archives about changing out springs... the Two or Three brand compressors mentioned there may be necessary due to either the springs having many coils and close together or the tight fit in the area near them.... so I am not sure any Midas can properly do the job.

I figure we should place a value on our time and expertise when dealing with cars. Everyone should value their own time at a minimum of $50 an hour. Professional mechanics use a guide to calculate the number of hours to perform a certain job. Their book might show new spring and shock replacement at 3.2 hours per wheel. They then take 3.2 hours and multiply it by their labor rate of say $100 and they come up with $320 per wheel.

So, we take our labor rate of $50 and multiply by 3.2 and come up with $160. So.....if we perform the work ourselves we saved ourselves $320 per wheel BUT we also have to place a value on our time which in this case is $160. The tough pill to swallow is nobody is paying us a dime to work on our cars. Plus, in the case of the OP, there is a risk to life and limb for this particular repair.

Now, if we have a skill that pays us $100 per hour and we don't get our hands dirty or risk our lives, it is better to work at that and swap dollars with the repair shop.

Another idea is bartering for work. Say you are a plumber; you approach ten auto repair shops and let them know you will offer them ten hours of free plumbing at either their business location or their home in exchange for repairing the shocks and springs on your mercedes. When you call, ask to speak with the owner of the business. I've learned over the years that most will say no, but if you keep dialing and smiling you will get a YES.

If you use this idea, be sure and check out the repair shops on yelp.com and this forum's reviews before you call and make them an offer.

Why? Anything prior to the 211 has the most ordinary of brake systems. And as long as it doesn’t have SLS, the suspension couldn’t be simpler.

I just had shocks put on by a local budget brakes. I had the shocks already and they only charged me 40 a corner. It was worth it to me because I don't have a car lift and believe me it's much easier with a lift. Jack stands and a floor jack just don't cut it. Took them an hour and a half at it would have taken me all day!

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The compressors are really cheap now. I bought a Klann knockoff from Taiwan a decade ago that works great. It cost me $150. The new ones from China Mainland cost $100 the last time I saw them. Those might be scary but they look like they’ll work.

A lot better than no compressor. Yikes:eek:

As for safety I wear gloves and glasses. The Bell helmet may be a good call. Cannot be too safe when you’re dealing with a cannon.

I work with the axis of the spring parallel to me. That is, if the spring breaks the compressor thread it’ll shoot most of it’s energy in a safe direction. I also work with it on the lawn, so if it does go boing it doesn’t have anything to recoil off of and surprise me. Finally when it is compressed, if I’m going to be doing some suspension work like ball joints or anything that will delay me, I decompress the spring ...I don’t leave it like a cocked ballista in my driveway. Not the best precautions but I’ve stayed out of trouble.

Good luck. You are scary. Rent the tool from somebody here.

Don’t go to arseholes like Midas or Menike. You’ll be sold too many additional services and all of them suck.

Edit- for goodness sakes. I just checked eBay and you can get a set of compressors for $55 shipped. Buy a set and be done with it.

NO COMPRESSOR NEEDED FOR REAR SPRINGS
 

If you are changing the springs on the rear, no compressor is needed! All you need to do is jack up the rear of the car, and place jack stands just forward of the rear of the front subframe mounting bolts (they need to be loosened). Remove the wheels, and shocks. Loosen the large bolts that hold the front of the subframe to the car. Only about four revolutions should do. Put your floor jack under the differential, and remove the four bolts holding the rear diff mount to the car. Lower the jack all the way, and the springs SHOULD FALL OUT. If they don't, loosen the front bolts a little more. Now, if you are doing the FRONT springs, you will definitely need a quality spring compressor.

Thank you you’re right. I am Starting to lose memory. I’m sitting in my shop staring at my rear rubber shims still wrapped in the plastic. I don’t think I ever removed the rears on my cars. I planned on it and read the diy (here?) on how to drop the spring by lowering the arm with a floor jack. Of course a compressor will work but it is a luxury.

I put thin shims up front and called it a day - and Yes I did use the compressor. Fixed saggy butt. As stated here those coils on mb are very closely spaced. The autozone compressor won’t work. So there is Benz mystique at work.

Btw I used the cheap Meyle shims and they make noise after five years. Next time I’ll get OE.

Yeah, this was the answer I was looking for. Where exactly are the sub frame bolts?

They are near the rear jack points. There is a plate that has two smaller bolts (17mm tool?) that need to be loose as well, or the plate will bend. Changing the rear springs on these cars is actually quite easy, and should take an hour or less.

Ordered the parts, shocks, springs, and spring pads. Well. see what happens.

Keep us updated on the rear, if it's an easy job, that's the first thing happening to mine this coming year. Sick of the ass hunkering down all the time!

I really haven't had to touch the front sub frame bolts to drop any springs.

You just really have to remove the shocks, drop the exhaust, unbolt the single round diff mount and then lower the subframe to the lowest point until the spring can fall out. Once the spring is fully extended and it's still there, you might need to pry it out a little bit. Of course if you still can't get it out, then you can resort to loosening the front sub frame mounts.


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I agree. On my 83, I never loosened the subframe bolts, just the 4 bolts around the differential, and drop it gently watching that the driveshaft/flex discs don't bind too much. Springs will fall out.

Unless you live in Arizona, hope you don’t need to loosen the subframe bolts...

Bring a 3/4” breaker bar or a 1/2” one and a Long pipe for leverage...

TIGHT...

Usually, all cars prior to 124 design don’t need the compressor for REAR spring removal...

You can do it with a 124 design, but if you are changing links, it’s much easier with the short shaft KLANN compressor...

I can't thank you guys enough!

If it does have to come down to loosing the subframe bolts, is it advised I buy new subframe mounts ahead of time just in case the old ones are destroyed?

It is a major deal to replace the mounts/bushings. It may be possible to replace them without totally removing the subframe from the car, but I don't see how. They don't come out easy, and you will need some sort of press to install them. Also, the brake lines will have to come off either way, as you won't get enough droop of the subframe without stretching the brake lines.