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#16
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That said, I would not make that decision on a customer's car or a friends car. I would leave that up to them.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#17
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"I would start it and run it."
I've never had any experience with foreign objects in the combustion chamber, removed a head, done a valve job... etc. So take my opinion with a grain of salt... At the speeds the piston moves, I think that plastic piece could damage the piston head or the valves, valve seats... etc. I.E. I can throw a paint ball at you from ten feet w/ no ill effects... shoot it at you from ten feet... it's going to bruise and break the skin (not to mention the fact that you'll likely lay an arse-whippin' on me shortly thereafter). I'd exhaust (pun intended) every possible vacuum or other removal options before cranking 'er up.
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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante" 2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit" -------------------- 1984 300D 1966 Mustang I6 3sp 1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE 1982 Toyota Supra 1977 Datsun 280z 1971 Datsun 240z |
#18
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The top of a piston is surprisingly thin and its aluminum so I'd want it out of there. It might be as thin as 1/8".
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#19
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I have experience with things in the chamber. The tip of 2 pre-chambers broke off and were banging around in there for a while ( in my mind "a while " in a running engine could be 5 seconds, it happened for the previous owner, so I don't know ) . The engine still ran. I drove it 70 miles home. It did not run well because of the broken off pre-chambers, but the pistons and valves were fine. The top of the pistons looked like someone took a hammer to it, with little divots marks in the top, but no material seemed to be missing. Based on that experience, I would run it with a piece of plastic in it.
Again, I would, doesn't mean you should.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#20
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Thank you Everyone for your inputs. I finally got the plastic piece out and thought I'd write a quick follow-up...
While rotating the engine manually I noticed that near top dead center of the cylinder with the plastic piece, the engine was momentarily harder to turn, which meant that fallen plastic piece was actually interfering with piston motion. So I rotated crank until intake valves were opening, but piston was still near the top. Then I cranked up the compressor to 150 psi and started squirting bursts of air into one intake while popping the vacuum suction on the other intake. It took about an hour of bursting air and popping the vacuum hose until I finally felt the plastic piece getting sucked through. |
#21
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96 E300d |
#22
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Yes, that is great news!
I wonder if applying the vacuum to the intake valve runner while rotating the engine so that the valve opening inside the cylinder got larger and larger would work. I'm thinking that the narrow initial opening of the valve would have higher air flow and the plastic piece would be closer to the top (on the piston) and so would get sucked and held at the opening, until the valve opening was large enough for the plastic piece to pass through.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#23
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#24
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Sweet indeed! Glad you got it out safely.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#25
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x2, glad to see you got it out. Something thin and flat like that surely would have got in a valve and caused some nasty metal on metal action. Well done!
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1998 E300 turbodiesel America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy! |
#26
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After reading this thread today, it makes me doubt if I was careful enough during the removal of my intake manifold.
I'm pretty sure after I removed the black plastic oil vapor plumbing pieces that I blew off the area above the intake manifold, but can't definitely remember doing so. Next time I'll make sure to remove the fuel line metal brackets and clips before removing the head. All of my plastic clips were broken and pieces found behind all but one metal mounting bracket. And, will also make sure to thoroughly check and clean the area above the intake manifold. There is a 'pad' shim part # A6010780386 for my car that attaches to the metal bracket and sits beneath the injector lines. This is used to provide a cushion/protector for the back of the injector line. After reading this thread I'll buy new ones and maybe prevent a future problem with the injector lines by holding the lines a little tighter. |
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