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  #1  
Old 12-11-2017, 08:13 PM
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OM606 (95 E300D) Plastic retainer piece fell into the combustion chamber

Hi Everyone (new to this forum)!

I was removing the intake manifold on my 95 E300D (OM606), when a broken piece of the plastic retaining clip fell into the intake manifold. I tried to extract it, but to make a long story short, if finally fell through the open intake valve and inside the combustion chamber. The piece looked flat, maybe 1/4" by 1/2" by about 1/16" thick.

Glow plugs and injectors are already out for servicing. The valve cover is still on.

What do I do?
A) Remove prechamber and try to get at it with a parts picker?
B) Pour strong solvent into the combustion chamber hoping to dissolve the plastic?
C) Manually rotate engine, if no interference run the engine and burn it out?
D) ???

Even though it's plastic, I still worry it will gum up and/or cause mechanical damage.

Any help is appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 12-11-2017, 08:34 PM
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I'm afraid you'll have to get that piece out intact.

I would try getting the intake valve as open as possible and try sucking it out the way it came in with a shop vac.

You'll need to stop up the injector and glow plug holes. A slight inrush of air via the gp hole may be to your benefit however.

If that fails it's prechamber or the whole head time.

Proactive HG replacement may not be a bad thing anyway given the age of the engine.
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  #3  
Old 12-11-2017, 09:34 PM
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Thank you jay_bob!

If vacuuming doesn't work, do you know if the prechamber can be removed, without removing the valve cover (using a slide hammer). It looks like it's maybe possible, but I've never done it - so thought I'd ask?

Also, On YouTube a technician says you never want to take one of these heads off, since it's difficult to replace without having head gasket leaks. Do you know if that is actually true? I read many posts here that people have taken these heads off for various reasons. I don't read anywhere that they have problems with them afterwards...
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  #4  
Old 12-12-2017, 06:59 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Maybe he could burn it out.
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2017, 07:30 AM
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Be sure to start with an empty vacuum can... so you know you got it out.

I think vacuum would be best also... but open intake means cylinder low in stroke.

Perhaps open exhaust? Get just before closing?
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  #6  
Old 12-12-2017, 07:37 AM
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Vacuum

I concur with those advocating the use of a vacuum. Make some type of reducer for the hose and attach a length of SMALL rubber automotive vacuum hose. You may be able to have some room to maneuver the small hose around and possibly convince the plastic piece to come out. A dab of grease on the end of the hose may improve your chances. Good luck!

I’ve taken the head off of my ‘95 E300 twice. I’ve not experienced any leaks as a result.
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  #7  
Old 12-19-2017, 03:07 PM
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Hi All,

Thank you for the replies. Well, the compressed air / vacuuming up trick didn't work. I either have to remove the prechamber and get the plastic piece from the top, or take off the exhaust manifold and try again with the piston near TDC.

My question is: having never taken the prechamber out, the exhaust manifold should be much easier right???

Thank you in advance!
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  #8  
Old 12-19-2017, 03:32 PM
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The prechambers can be a triple Biotch but the exhaust manifold is no picnic either.
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  #9  
Old 12-19-2017, 03:53 PM
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well your next move might depend on what special tools you have. removing the prechamber would provide better access than the exhaust manifold but in order to remove them, you need a special socket for the retainer ring and an adapter for your slide hammer. you also have to replace the prechamber seal ring. if you don't have the tools to pull the prechamber, I would suggest pulling the front or rear exhaust manifold (I don't think you said which cylinder you dropped it in) and rotating the engine over by hand until the affected cylinder is on the exhaust stroke. at that point the volume of the cylinder will be about as small as its going to get and the plastic bit should be towards the top so the vacuum trick may work. on the bright side at least you don't have a turbo that needs to be removed too!
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  #10  
Old 12-19-2017, 06:03 PM
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get a mouse glue trap and a long flexible stick, when the valve is open and cylinder is low, gently jab in there with the glue stuck to the stick.

usually that glue will remove anything from any hole.
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  #11  
Old 12-20-2017, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinfilmboy View Post
Also, On YouTube a technician says you never want to take one of these heads off, since it's difficult to replace without having head gasket leaks. Do you know if that is actually true?
It depends.

I've taken the head off a 606 successfully twice now. But I spent many hundreds of dollars on all the correct special tools, and the MB factory service manual. My workspace was kept surgically clean, and I followed the factory manual to the letter. All one-time-use parts were replaced, and all new parts were Genuine MB. Full success, no leaks. The parts cost alone was a few hundred dollars for all the bolts, gaskets, etc.

If you take short cuts, try to "wing it" without the factory manual, guess at the torque specs, reuse one-time-use fasteners, and use generic parts from Auto zone, then yes it will probably leak.

With all of that said, removing the head on a 606 is a *lot* of work, it's by far the longest most complicated head removal job of any engine I've worked on. I would avoid doing it unless absolutely necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oilslick View Post
I concur with those advocating the use of a vacuum. Make some type of reducer for the hose and attach a length of SMALL rubber automotive vacuum hose.
^ This, exactly. Reduce the vacuum to something the size of a drinking straw, and go in via the glow plug hole. If something is in there, this will get it. You can also use a borescope into the glow plug hole first to inspect and locate the foreign object.
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  #12  
Old 12-20-2017, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torsionbar View Post
Reduce the vacuum to something the size of a drinking straw, and go in via the glow plug hole. If something is in there, this will get it. You can also use a borescope into the glow plug hole first to inspect and locate the foreign object.
Does the glow plug not thread into the prechamber on the 606? If it does, you're not going to see much by sending a vacuum of any size down that hole...
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  #13  
Old 12-20-2017, 03:02 PM
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These things are always a bit of a gamble, bit failing the vac method i would pour a very small quant of engine oil (not enough to hydro-lock the piston) but sufficient to cover piston cap, this way the piece should stick through a few combustion strokes allowing it to be burnt or crushed - the gap between piston and head is tiny, less than the plastic, that said you don't want it to wedge one of the valves open.

It's a risk, but work through the easy options first.

Good luck
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2017, 04:30 PM
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Rock, paper, scissors...

Metal engine parts vs. plastic.

I would start it and run it.
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  #15  
Old 12-21-2017, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Does the glow plug not thread into the prechamber on the 606? If it does, you're not going to see much by sending a vacuum of any size down that hole...
Doh, you're right, that's what I get for posting late at night, after a day spent working on a direct injection diesel.

So yes, prechamber has to come out. Special socket for the injector, special socket for the prechamber "lock nut" and then a slide hammer to pull the pre chamber.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
Rock, paper, scissors...

Metal engine parts vs. plastic.

I would start it and run it.
The risk is in the foreign part preventing a valve from closing, and then piston collides with valve.
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