OM617 Build with CAT parts - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BillGrissom · #16 12-27-2017, 01:02 PM

Good luck. I also expect this is a long task and hope your foreman appreciates the effort. To possibly help:

1. Your biggest item, but seems tricky and perhaps risky to adapt a Cat p.s. to the timing drive. The OEM Vickers pump is neat and simple and looks like something one would see on an aircraft. You will need vacuum to shut-off the engine unless you can rig an electric solenoid or such.

2. If your battery stays charged over a week of driving, I think your alternator is sufficient, but mine is a minority opinion, at least on Mopar sites.

3. Rollguy here makes a Sanden bracket, as does another (ebay, forgot name). Of course Sanden has nothing to do w/ Cat and they are used on most muscle car upgrades. I used Rollguy's bracket, but cracked. Might have been my fault, but it is a tricky cantilevered load. Since you have CNC avail, I suggest adapting the factory R2 alum bracket, which is very stiff.

4. Have seen large glass-bowl fuel filters w/ bottom water drain adapted. Search. Your engine has both a pre-filter and final filter. At some point, it seems M-B decided "water in diesel" was no longer a concern.

5. Any auto parts carries the oil filters, w/ several brands to choose, or just add to your next rock or Amazon order. M-B doesn't make filters.

6. I installed the 1985 CA frame-mounted air filter housing on my 1984 because I tired of shaking & cracked brackets. Since the turbo is lower, I cut the outlet tube slightly. Used silicone inlet duct. A tee drains blow-by oil and a tube routes it to the factory drain. Pioneered this on my 1985 when installing an earlier engine. I stack 2 cheap air filters (1982 Toyota MR2, I recall, see post) since the correct PN is $$$.

7. I tried ~2000 Corvette hydraulic mounts. The only ones I found that barely fit and even that was tough (jacked engine up, loosened engine bracket). I had to rethread the top stud on the mount. Made vibrations worse, but they were cheap mounts so might be solid rubber for all I could tell. See my post.

8. Autozone also sells AGM batteries (Platinum line). I use their H8, which is 10 lb lighter and $20 cheaper than the correct "Frame 47" battery. I don't see 20 sec of glow-plugs appreciably drawing down the battery (~10 A for 0.3/60 hr = ? A-hr).

9. V-belts are easy and really doubt Cat makes any. Download a Gates, Goodyear, etc catalog for PN's. Come in 3 widths and ~2" length increments. Amazed that people think they need the dealer. Ditto for bearings, hoses, ...

10. Ditto. Amazed many people are dependent on M-B for hoses and hose assemblies. Most towns have a hydraulic shop that does this all day long. Wheeler Dealers did an episode w/ a Lamborgini (factory used various undocumented fittings, changing every week), but a shop fixed them up. I have a Master-Cool ferrule crimper, but nobody needs that. Look for crimp collars (Oeticker, ...) and such. The h.p. pwr steering hose can be rebuilt w/ box wrenches (see my post).

11. Gazillion posts on oils w/ even more opinions. Main points are always use "diesel" (CJ-rated) for more detergents to suspend the black stuff and look for high-zinc to protect the non-roller "solid followers" camshaft (yes, regular valve adjustments needed). I totally flushed my M-B's coolant system w/ citric, dried, and installed Evans Waterless so no more corrosion (I hope). I also use DOT5 silicone brake fluid.

12. Staying factory is always simplest, unless you enjoy soldering and mounting. I have a few GP Relays from the junkyard in my box, but never had to swap one.

Alec300SD · #17 12-27-2017, 01:27 PM

CATMAN, you've generated a lot of buzz with an intriguing project.

A few things to consider:

For simplicity on the turbo you may want to consider a 179355 Borg-Warner EFR7064.
Pricey, but will take the demands placed on it and should give you the low end grunt and quick spoolup you need fror your goals.

Definitely do the IP upgrade from Dieselmeken (or others) for the fueling.

Non-EGR intake and exhaust manifolds from a 78 or 79 W116 300SD like ROLLGUY proposed.
Drill and tap the exhaust manifold for pyrometer and exhaust back pressure probes.
Then ceramic coat the exhaust manifold.

W115 longrunner intake if you plan on piping an intercooler.

Consider a snorkel for the large enclosed CAT air box.

We'd all love to see pictures of the build as it progresses.

PM me if you need the CAT fuel filter upgrade kit, the W116 Non-EGR manifolds or the W115 longrunner intake.

Dan Stokes · #18 12-28-2017, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdoublenastywitit

Can someone please tell me how much a super pump actially costs after shipping? A lot of people talk about wanting one but does anyone have one?

How much for the super pump? With let's just say the common 7.5mm elements.

And for the OP if you want anythjng more than 15 extra HP from stock you will NEED a super pump.

I'll see if I can find my invoice. I can't remember what I had for breakfast never mind what I paid for something a couple of years ago! The number that springs to mind is $1200 including shipping but I'm not at all sure that's right.

Dan

OM617YOTA · #19 12-28-2017, 11:53 AM

Neat swap, looking forward to seeing it completed.

I'd be inclined to swap in a CAT motor, rather than swap in a 617 and CAT-erize it.

CATMAN · #20 12-28-2017, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

Neat swap, looking forward to seeing it completed.

I'd be inclined to swap in a CAT motor, rather than swap in a 617 and CAT-erize it.

I posted a large response to everyone and it said waiting for moderator approval, I guess we'll see if it shows up.

Unfortunately CAT doesn't manufacture any motor that lends itself to a small truck application. All of their approx 2-4 liter 3 or 4cyl motors are mostly for low revving industrial applications. They are all low HP slow revving torque focused motors that are not designed for long life when submitted to the RPM ranges and throttle inputs an on-road truck application would produce. Not to mention, even their small motors are mostly over 1000Lbs, very tall, and have industrial bell housings hard to adapt to an automotive application. Many of these small motors also have fuel pumps configured around industrial applications that just won't work well for driving.

If you look up old posts about guys doing Cummins 4BT swaps its the general consensus that even if one were to get an industrial 4BT say from a generator or a water pump its just not worth trying to make that engine live inside of a vehicle.

The OM617 is a proper motor that I've always wanted to do something with. It is very different than a heavy slow lump of iron that is built to sit at 1800rpm all day long doing nothing but turning over a large hydraulic pump.

CATMAN · #21 12-28-2017, 08:48 PM

I have been directed towards using a TRW Power Steering pump. The Cat dealer is ordering these for 90% of customers for pump replacements on over the road truck engines.

I am supposed to get a call from one of their technical support engineers to go over what will work best for my application on the OM617. These pumps are made in the USA and I can get a brand new unit configured to my choices of spindle rotation direction, spindle type, spindle lubrication config, hose outlet clockings, flow rate, and operating pressure.

1wk lead time for custom configurations on an EV or PS and just under $300 with tax and shipping.

I should be able to get one built that is exactly within the operating parameters needed to run steering and hydro boost without any excess capacity wasting HP for no good reason.

This pump is close in size to the vac pump, and shouldn't interfere with the fan. They also feature a short spindle option that can be had with a 3/4" SAE 11 tooth gear drive. That is an extremely common spline pattern and cheap pre-broached "slugs" are readily available. Most good machine shops also have tooling for the SAE 11 pattern.

Also due to this being a heavy truck part it is fully user serviceable and rebuildable. All parts are readily available and the tech manuals below are offered online from the manufacturer.

Pic of pump is attached.

Link to TRW Pumps spec books:
https://www.trwaftermarket.com/us/products/heavy-duty/service-literature/pumps/

Example of SAE 11 Slug:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Shaft-Couplers/1-Piece-Solid-Couplers/3-4--11-Tooth-Splined-Coupling-1-2985.axd

97 SL320 · #22 12-29-2017, 08:01 AM

What year Ranger are we dealing with? The major split is split beam front axle ( 83 to 97 ? ) or double A arms ( 98 ? to 12 ) . If you have double A arm, do you have front coil springs or torsion bars?

What rear end? 7.5 or 8.8 ? they look very similar. The 7.5 has a slightly rectangular cover shape where the 8.8 is square.

The M5OD ( Mazda built ) trans had 2 versions, lighter duty Ranger and slightly larger full sized truck. An off the shelf BH adapter very likely exists for the Ranger and would push your project much farther along.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

Unfortunately CAT doesn't manufacture any motor that lends itself to a small truck application. All of their approx 2-4 liter 3 or 4cyl motors are mostly for low revving industrial applications.

Did you look at Perkins? I'm pretty sure cat owns them or is related to them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

They are all low HP slow revving torque focused motors that are not designed for long life when submitted to the RPM ranges and throttle inputs an on-road truck application would produce.

Define long life. The conversion for mileage to hours is 35 MPH = 1 running hour. ( This is based on service recommendations for service on an engine that can be on road or stationary. )

What top speed do you need? Figure that then work backwards for trans and rear end ratio. You can also push the governor for road use. Remember, a industrial engine is rated for continuous power where a car is rated for intermittent power. Max power in a car is only used for short periods of time so while at steady state speed, you can trade longevity at full power for RPM.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

Not to mention, even their small motors are mostly over 1000Lbs, very tall, and have industrial bell housings hard to adapt to an automotive application.

A SAE bell would be pretty easy to adapt, use a pump plate then drill for the trans you are using. Or, remove the BH and make a plate that bolts to the actual engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

Many of these small motors also have fuel pumps configured around industrial applications that just won't work well for driving.

An industrial app would have a constant speed + rev limit governor and an automotive app would have just a rev limit.

Look at your lawn mower, it is a constant speed governor. When the engine is off, the throttle is wide open as it is trying to maintain set speed. A rev limit governor leaves the throttle at set speed and if a overall rev limit is exceeded, the throttle is pulled shut.

It's all a matter of where throttle / governor springs are placed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

If you look up old posts about guys doing Cummins 4BT swaps its the general consensus that even if one were to get an industrial 4BT say from a generator or a water pump its just not worth trying to make that engine live inside of a vehicle.

The 4BT was used in on road bread trucks as a repower. It is very heavy for a smaller truck ( 600+ LB ) The injection pump on most is a Bosch VE that was used in many on road applications so a governor conversion isn't an issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

The OM617 is a proper motor that I've always wanted to do something with. It is very different than a heavy slow lump of iron that is built to sit at 1800rpm all day long doing nothing but turning over a large hydraulic pump.

There is a thread on this site where someone is putting a MB diesel in a pre 97 Ranger. OM617 swap into Ford Ranger, what would it take?

The 617 is a viable option however adapting cat parts will make things much more difficult for no good reason ( RE removing stock MP power steering pump )

martureo · #23 12-29-2017, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

I have been directed towards using a TRW Power Steering pump. The Cat dealer is ordering these for 90% of customers for pump replacements on over the road truck engines.

I am supposed to get a call from one of their technical support engineers to go over what will work best for my application on the OM617. These pumps are made in the USA and I can get a brand new unit configured to my choices of spindle rotation direction, spindle type, spindle lubrication config, hose outlet clockings, flow rate, and operating pressure.

1wk lead time for custom configurations on an EV or PS and just under $300 with tax and shipping.

I should be able to get one built that is exactly within the operating parameters needed to run steering and hydro boost without any excess capacity wasting HP for no good reason.

This pump is close in size to the vac pump, and shouldn't interfere with the fan. They also feature a short spindle option that can be had with a 3/4" SAE 11 tooth gear drive. That is an extremely common spline pattern and cheap pre-broached "slugs" are readily available. Most good machine shops also have tooling for the SAE 11 pattern.

Also due to this being a heavy truck part it is fully user serviceable and rebuildable. All parts are readily available and the tech manuals below are offered online from the manufacturer.

Pic of pump is attached.

Link to TRW Pumps spec books:
https://www.trwaftermarket.com/us/products/heavy-duty/service-literature/pumps/

Example of SAE 11 Slug:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Shaft-Couplers/1-Piece-Solid-Couplers/3-4--11-Tooth-Splined-Coupling-1-2985.axd

I'd personally stick with the MB power steering pump. One can be had from a w126 model with 82 bar (just under 2000 psi) easily. They rebuildable and are bolt on to the 617.

OM617YOTA · #24 12-29-2017, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

I posted a large response to everyone and it said waiting for moderator approval, I guess we'll see if it shows up.

Unfortunately CAT doesn't manufacture any motor that lends itself to a small truck application. All of their approx 2-4 liter 3 or 4cyl motors are mostly for low revving industrial applications. They are all low HP slow revving torque focused motors that are not designed for long life when submitted to the RPM ranges and throttle inputs an on-road truck application would produce. Not to mention, even their small motors are mostly over 1000Lbs, very tall, and have industrial bell housings hard to adapt to an automotive application. Many of these small motors also have fuel pumps configured around industrial applications that just won't work well for driving.

If you look up old posts about guys doing Cummins 4BT swaps its the general consensus that even if one were to get an industrial 4BT say from a generator or a water pump its just not worth trying to make that engine live inside of a vehicle.

The OM617 is a proper motor that I've always wanted to do something with. It is very different than a heavy slow lump of iron that is built to sit at 1800rpm all day long doing nothing but turning over a large hydraulic pump.

Good stuff, that all makes sense.

The size, weight, and cost were all reasons I decided against the 4BT for my swap. By the time all the mods to make it work reliably would have been done, might as well just go buy a Dodge with a 6BT and be done.

So yeah, 617 it is. I look forward to reading about your build.

OM617YOTA · #25 12-29-2017, 11:39 PM

One thing I forgot to add. Anathema on this site, but if I do another diesel swap, I very much doubt I'll do the 617 again. I'd REALLY try and stick with a Japanese engine, as the Japanese stuff just seems more sanely engineered than the German stuff. Where three bolts are needed, MBZ will use five, of two different shaft diameters and three different head sizes.

What mechanical operations can you do with 8 through 22 mm sockets and wrenches, Philips and straight blade screwdrivers, your choice of any four factory tools, three unicorns, a voodoo shaman, and a genie with three wishes at your disposal? Japanese vehicle, rebuild the entire thing from the oil spot on the pavement up to the antenna ball. German vehicle, maybe an oil change. Not much of an exaggeration.

Japanese motor not available or practical(Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, Kubota, etc), I'd go with a newish VW TDI engine instead. Better packaging, easier power potential, lighter, better MPG, etc.

Obviously a huge dose of opinion, but something to think about before you dive in too deeply.

Dan Stokes · #26 12-30-2017, 11:40 AM

I have to say that I LOVE my OM617 but I'm not counting on it for daily transportation. I agree that it's a PITA to work on but its TOUGH (as in, can handle way more HP than it was built with) and it has almost gas-like RPM capability. I routinely shift mine at 5200 RPM with no observed problems (so far!). I think the bottom line here is that this engine was built for transportation and to be installed in a passenger car and so was made for that kind of work.

Now, as a daily driver? Can't say but I do see some potential issues (age, parts availability when on the road, etc.) than might be strongly in the negative column. Pick your poison, I guess.

Dan

CATMAN · #27 12-30-2017, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OM617YOTA

One thing I forgot to add. Anathema on this site, but if I do another diesel swap, I very much doubt I'll do the 617 again. I'd REALLY try and stick with a Japanese engine, as the Japanese stuff just seems more sanely engineered than the German stuff. Where three bolts are needed, MBZ will use five, of two different shaft diameters and three different head sizes.

What mechanical operations can you do with 8 through 22 mm sockets and wrenches, Philips and straight blade screwdrivers, your choice of any four factory tools, three unicorns, a voodoo shaman, and a genie with three wishes at your disposal? Japanese vehicle, rebuild the entire thing from the oil spot on the pavement up to the antenna ball. German vehicle, maybe an oil change. Not much of an exaggeration.

Japanese motor not available or practical(Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, Kubota, etc), I'd go with a newish VW TDI engine instead. Better packaging, easier power potential, lighter, better MPG, etc.

Obviously a huge dose of opinion, but something to think about before you dive in too deeply.

I over engineer the hell out of everything I do. Its common that I'll take a structural engineer's drawings for something and tell him to add x y or z in multiple areas of the design. Nearly every time I'll request updated prints to add on to what was given to me as "approved and to code" from an engineer. They design things, I spend a lot of time repairing or replacing structural elements that were engineered but lacked some key "add-ons" that could have doubled the lifespan.

As for the Japanese motors, I hear your comments about easy to service and "done right" but to me they lack character. Plus I've already got enough Japanese iron. An interesting fact is nearly all but the largest CAT excavators are made entirely in Japan in factories once owned in full, and still partially vested in, by none other than Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.

Deere excavators are 100% Hitachi products, made in Japan.
Case excavators are 100% Kobelco products, made in Japan.
Volvo excavators are 100% Samsung products, made in Korea.

Its a running joke that no matter what color you pick they all burn soy sauce. The Japanese make awesome stuff, but being a kraut myself I've got a soft spot for that three pointed star.

ROLLGUY · #28 12-30-2017, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

I over engineer the hell out of everything I do. Its common that I'll take a structural engineer's drawings for something and tell him to add x y or z in multiple areas of the design. Nearly every time I'll request updated prints to add on to what was given to me as "approved and to code" from an engineer. They design things, I spend a lot of time repairing or replacing structural elements that were engineered but lacked some key "add-ons" that could have doubled the lifespan.

As for the Japanese motors, I hear your comments about easy to service and "done right" but to me they lack character. Plus I've already got enough Japanese iron. An interesting fact is nearly all but the largest CAT excavators are made entirely in Japan in factories once owned in full, and still partially vested in, by none other than Mitsubishi Heavy Industries.

Deere excavators are 100% Hitachi products, made in Japan.
Case excavators are 100% Kobelco products, made in Japan.
Volvo excavators are 100% Samsung products, made in Korea.

Its a running joke that no matter what color you pick they all burn soy sauce. The Japanese make awesome stuff, but being a kraut myself I've got a soft spot for that three pointed star.

Some would say you are using the "best of the best" by going with the Ford (American) chassis, M B (German) engine, and CAT (Japanese) accessories.
I am not a Ford guy, but for that era of truck, the Ford was the best of the "Big Three". The OM617 is the best automobile Diesel engine in my opinion, and you can't go wrong with anything Japanese (although Japan=quality in my opinion, their automobiles lack soul, timeless style, and a robust quality that MB's have).

CATMAN · #29 01-29-2018, 10:10 PM

This project has taken a different turn. I was being somewhat cheap trying to use a work truck I already owned as the build platform. After fabrication costs to do axle swaps and nearly re-engineer an entire vehicle that would still just be an old Ford Ranger I decided to pull the plug.

I bought a 1995 Land Rover Discovery 1 and freighted it in from Texas with zero frame or body rust, with brand new 32" GY Duratrac tires, an ARB bumper, 2" lift, and a very rare 5sp manual transmission. The interior is shot, and so is the paint, it was a base model truck with 178K miles.

To solve my interior problems and lack of creature comforts, I found a 1999 1 owner Discovery 1 with the full "LE luxury pack" with a mint condition interior full of leather and wood, and all of the various factory upgrades of its day. It was a rust bucket from Indiana, auto transmission, nearly gutted and ready to be scrapped as a shell.

Then just for ****s and giggles I went ahead and bought a 1997 Discovery 1 close to me that came to MI from OK about 2 years ago and is in great shape. The bargain was too good to pass up, and why not have a second donor just because.

Where things stand:

I sourced a 240D manual flywheel, pressure plate, and bell housing all for $80 and in great shape. I will have a simple adapter machined to attach the 240 bell housing to the Rover R380. This lets me retain the stock engine to trans adapter plate and starter.

The OM617 is going to the machine shop this week to be balanced with its new flywheel.

I have a W115 long runner intake, and a 1978 non-egr exhaust manifold.

I should have the Discovery body tub / rolling chassis ready to be sent to paint in 1-2 weeks.

I plan to install a compound turbo from BW's R2S line on the OM617 near the end of the project.

BenzDiesel · #30 01-31-2018, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CATMAN

This is my first post here, you all seem like a resourceful bunch so I figured I better sign up to see if anyone can offer some insight on my newly undertaken OM617 project.

Some background:

I got a free 1983 300D donor car to use for a project. It was a 1 owner, always dealer serviced, 112K miles. Its sat in a barn for 8 years, and started right up with a jump from my F350. 8yr old diesel and 25* weather didn't seem to bother it one bit.

The OM617 will be used to re-power a 2 wheel drive 2008 Ford Ranger. The overall scope will include mating the engine to a M5OD-2 5sp ford manual from a 2003 F150 and a Dana20 T-case from a 1976 Bronco. The truck will also be getting a Dana44 front axle and Ford 9" rear axle with radius arm front suspension and leaf rear.

I bought the 5sp transmission already, and acquired a rusted out 1976 Bronco as a donor for t-case, axles, and suspension/steering parts. I'll be using the Mercedes4x4 engine to trans adapter, and the Advanced Adapters trans to t-case adapter unless it proves more cost effective to have a local machine shop make those parts.

The rebuilt truck will be a daily driver for one of my foremen who already has it issued to him as a take home company vehicle. Its primary use will be for work not a hobby truck for 4-wheeling. I plan on putting 33" tires on it and keeping the suspension height as conservative as possible.

I intend to entirely eliminate the vacuum system, remove the ALDA, crank up the fuel, and install a mechanically controlled VGT turbo. This was an EGR engine and I can weld cast properly so the intake and exhaust manifolds will be cut, patched, and worked very smooth. The exhaust manifold and hot side of the turbo will be ceramic coated inside and out, and the truck will get a 3" straight pipe with no resonator or muffler of any kind. As I build up the motor I will replace all intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, studs, and nuts. A new water pump will be installed. Injectors will be rebuilt with new nozzles, hard lines flushed clean, new OEM MB return lines installed. I will install new glow plugs and also inspect and clean precup chambers if needed. I most likely will also pull the head and crank and repair/replace anything necessary. This motor will also get a custom welded oil pan to clear the large front differential

--------

I saw many threads here and on superturbodiesel where members responding to questions commonly asked "what is the application" so I tried to be thorough in the above project related information.

--------

I own a construction business and am a die hard Caterpillar guy. I have only Cat equipment and a great relationship with my local dealer and their parts department. My below ideas about this motor build will incorporate Cat parts because I will have fun trying to use Cat parts and this will make servicing this motor far easier. The parts department will let me add this truck into their system and database every Cat part for this truck into my customer account.

Myself or employees are in the dealer almost weekly. No other vendor in town will keep track of any part numbers on a custom built truck. This will make the end product very practical for me, and worthy of a yellow paint job. Not to mention they have the best custom hose shop in town and can mandrel bend and braise anything I will need.

Quick list of potential Cat parts:

1. Power Steering Pump & Reservoir
2. Alternator
3. AC Compressor
4. Fuel Filters, Primary & Secondary
5. Oil Filter & Brackets
6. Air Filter System
7. Motor Mounts
8. Battery
9. All V-Belts
10. All Fabricated Hoses & Hard Lines
11. All fluids
12. Glow plug circuit

The following is what I am seeking some questions or feedback on:

1. The Power Steering system is my biggest engineering feat that I want to accomplish on this engine build. I want an end product with a clean and industrial type of look to it and to do that I want to eliminate the vacuum pump and install a direct drive power steering pump similar to this one from a Cat C7.
https://images.truckpartsinventory.com/parts/22571/2004-CAT-C-7-Steering-Pumps-zMAPzngmPdGH_b.jpg
I do business with a good local machine shop that can fabricate the necessary brackets and components to mate a direct drive pump like this into a "slip on" configuration to allow for install/removal without risk of accidental timing changes. Cat makes many direct drive PS pumps and remote reservoirs for them and I am not concerned about finding one that will fit in place of the stock vacuum pump without causing fan clearance issues. My only concern I would like feedback on is will doing this cause any adverse effects on timing chain or sprocket wear? I am thinking it should not so long as the chain tension and lubrication is as good as it can be. Has anyone done anything like this before?

2. I read that the stock alternator is quite low on power, I will find a 120amp or higher unit form Cat that can be adapted without any brackets.

3. I will replace the inferior Delphi AC compressor with a refurbished Sanden unit sourced from a Caterpillar motor. This will come stock with a v-belt clutch pulley and I can easily fabricate brackets to mate it to the motor.

4. Has anyone used a Cat fuel filter on their OM617 before? I want to use one that is slightly larger and has a fuel/water separator incorporated into it. If I can find one that will spin on to the factory MB filter housing I will use that, if not I will either modify the housing with a new threaded stub or find a suitable Cat housing that can be bolted on without much extra fabrication work. For the small in-line filter I plan to simply bring that to the dealer and find the closest match and go with it.

5. I know that the factory MB upright canister oil filter is a good design and well engineered but for me it's not worth keeping because I am not going to special order OEM filters from the web every time I change the oil. My closest MB dealer is an hour away and if I keep that intact I am the type of guy who'd want to use an OEM filter. Too much hassle for my application so I intend to convert to a spin-on cat unit. Has anyone converted their motor to use a spin on filter? I have seen a thread I found via google of a home-brew spin on configuration with an upside down filter and I don't like that. If need be I'll source an easy to fit cat housing piece and bracket it onto the motor then run hard lines as needed. If anyone has any tips for the filter conversion I'm all ears.

6. I don't like the look or lack of protection with the exposed "cone type" cold air intake setups that seem common on swaps. I'll find myself a high flow air filter housing and filter from Cat that will give me great air flow and adequate dust protection along with a filter life indicator gauge built into the body of the housing.

7. I intend to keep the factory MB cast aluminum motor mount arms and grind off the "shock absorber" portions of the arms, leaving only the main mounting holes. Cat sells hundreds of various motor mounts, I am sure there is a fluid filled high isolation mount that will fit the MB holes.

8. Cat sells private label AGM batteries specifically engineered for starting Diesel engines and living in high vibration and high impact environments. They're usually less than $40 more than the same size battery from Napa and I have had far better luck with them. They incorporate some elements of deep cycle design into these batteries to keep glow plugs from wearing them down in very cold weather.

9. Cat makes tons of v-belts and I can easily size up what I need for this build. Their belts seem to be far more abrasion and chemical resistant than standard auto parts store products. I'll gladly pay double for their belts and learned from experience they do outperform all competition.

10. As stated above, our dealer has an in house flexible and solid hose shop that is top notch in quality and turn around time. They can make both solid and flex lines for engine oil, power steering, AC systems, diesel fuel, and coolant. They also offer custom radiator hose fabrication. I was told by the hose shop manager that when I've got the engine ready to be plumbed I can drop it off on its engine stand and come back in 2 days when its done. Far easier IMO than running around town or sourcing stuff online.

11. I've always ran 100% Cat fluids on equipment because my pricing on these is the same as major label items at any auto parts store. They claim their product is engineered specifically to handle more abuse from the operator and be used in dirtier environments compared to name brand fluids. I wouldn't think of putting Cat fluids in a brand new Merc engine, and have never considered anything but OEM Ford fluids on my 6.7 Powerstroke trucks. I am betting that this old lump of German diesel power will take to Cat fluids just fine though.

12. The factory glow plug relay on the 300D was junk upon arrival. Cat makes various stand alone glow plug circuit modules, does anyone see any reason not to go that route?

------

I hope anyone who takes the time to read this appreciates my enthusiasm for building an OM617. This is probably one hell of a first post by forum standards, but I am no newbie to doing projects like this. All help, advise, or questions will be well appreciated.

Talking me out of using as much CAT sourced parts as possible will be a lost cause. Every single part Cat has ever made has full engineered drawings and performance specs available in their dealer parts ordering system. I have no other source that will let me drop Merc parts off to be matched for fit and application.

I'll start posting pictures soon. The engine is on a stand and being stripped and cleaned.

Also: If anyone here has interest in adapting some of these Cat parts to their engine please PM me to discuss costs. All adapters and brackets for this project will be commissioned to a CNC shop and I will be retaining the design drawings and production rights.

Dear Sir,

Please DO NOT destroy that vehicle. It is one of the finest examples of the last of these great engineered cars. That is not a Chevy or a tractor. Sell the car to someone who really can appreciate the car for what it is. There are thousands of rust bucket, old Mercedes Benz diesels with hundreds of thousands of miles that you can experiment on in the manner that you have laid out. At just over 100,000 miles, the engine is just broken in on that vintage of Mercedes diesel car. Again Sir, allow that car to continue to live on in the hands of someone who will continue to cherish, treasure and value that Mercedes Diesel. Please don't trash that car just because you maybe have the money and resources that allows you to afford to be able to destroy such a fine car. Thank you for your consideration. Wished I could have found it and could have been able to buy it. Sincerely,

BenzDiesel