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#16
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Thanks everyone - all resolved. I went to part source and they had actual rubber vacuum plugs that fitted tightly and secured each port that I've deleted. All good now and thanks again!
I did the golf/tee and screw thing before I started getting rid of the vacuum lines but the local dealers and specialty shops made fun of me lol calling it "Mickey Mouse" work so that's why I wanted to clean up everything properly and make it look nice. The local dealers here give me a good rate on labor because of the year of the vehicle.
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1976 Mercedes 240D (Sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel: 500,000KM 1986 Mercedes 300E (Sold) 1988 Mercedes 300E (Sold) 2002 Mercedes C240 (Sold) 2008 Mercedes C350 4matic A great site for purchasing industrial rubber products! Industrial Rubber |
#17
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When I deleted the egr and arv, on my 85 California 300TD I traced the vacuum lines back to where they come off the main vacuum line from the pump to the brake booster. I disconnected them there, and plugged both where they had been connected and the lines themselves.
I did not remove any of my more cluttered rat's nest shown in post #11 above or disconnect any other connections, because I did not trace all the vacuum lines and wanted to see how things went. As far as I can tell, and it's been nearly a year, everything is working fine (vacuum-wise) with the whole mess disconnected and blocked off as I did. I also replaced the trap oxidizer with rollguy's bypass pipe and put in new pop-set monarch nozzles, and the car is still running twice as strong as when I bought it $150,000 miles ago. Someday I'll remove all of the disconnected vacuum lines and what they are connected to. _______________________________ '85 300TD, 376,000 daily driver |
#18
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Never mind.
I didn't see there was a page 2 and you had it resolved. Sometimes I think I had too much fun along the Russian River in the Redwoods in the early '70s, but my mother swears I was always this way. |
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