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  #1  
Old 01-05-2018, 05:20 PM
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Delivery Valve Seal Epic Fail

So I finally got the spline socket today to change delivery valve seals on my 1993 300d.
Everything was going well, until I attempted to torque delivery valve #5. The bottom of the valve broke into the threads, just below where the seal is. I can still thread the valve on slightly. Wow, I think I am completely ****ed here. I can't think of any possible solution other than replacing the whole pump. Just figured I would post here in case anyone has any ideas.

P.S. I put everything back together with the broken valve hand tight, amazingly the car started and runs, but #5 cylinder has no pressure.

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1993 300d - Von Strudel
1987 190e (RIP) - Duke
1983 230e (sold) - Helga
1982 240d (sold) - Igor
1973 280 (sold and missed )
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:25 PM
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How on earth did you manage that? The torque setting is so low that there's no possible way that you could have broken them off unless you were really wrenching on it or had it in a serious bind.

If the top part broke off, the bottom part should still be in the original position. Reinsert the top part back where it was and use it to unthread the lower section. The threads have a decent amount of tolerance to them, it should simply unthread with hand pressure.
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Current stable:
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2018, 06:45 PM
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It was very strange, and no, I was not torqueing hard. I think it might have something to do with the cold temps, it was about 20 outside.
Thanks, I will try, but not too confident that will work. I will let you know when I try tomorrow.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel
1987 190e (RIP) - Duke
1983 230e (sold) - Helga
1982 240d (sold) - Igor
1973 280 (sold and missed )
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2018, 07:32 PM
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The DV holders thread extremely easily by hand. There's almost no drag at all until the O-ring gets pulled down in the threads. You should be able to unthread the part that broke off with a pick or something. If it won't turn, you likely crossthreaded it into the hole which would not be a good situation...
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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2018, 03:50 PM
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After trying a few different things, I don't think there is any chance of getting the broken piece out. It's possible I cross threaded it.
I'm going to take off the intake manifold and try and get at it a few different ways. Beyond that, I'll either be changing the injection pump, or parting out the car. Sad.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel
1987 190e (RIP) - Duke
1983 230e (sold) - Helga
1982 240d (sold) - Igor
1973 280 (sold and missed )
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  #6  
Old 01-06-2018, 06:11 PM
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wow a torque is only 35 Nm. try to use big easy out from Snap on check their website.

You can get spare part from either this guy in NC - +17046212322
OR email to Lee jESSE sales@contagiousdiesel.com ( he is responding long but he is cheaper, as found out late. Well I paid already to NC guy. )
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2018, 06:50 PM
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Thanks. I already acquired a new valve locally. The typical extractor won't work because in the center is full of the other parts.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel
1987 190e (RIP) - Duke
1983 230e (sold) - Helga
1982 240d (sold) - Igor
1973 280 (sold and missed )
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2018, 07:24 PM
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it is pretty hard to cross thread. did you start it by hand first? also it'd be a shame to part the car out over a mistake you made. I don't think thats the right thing to do.

it's a shame I had a spare injection pump for sale and I threw it in the trash because no one wanted it for two months and I had no use for it.
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2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2018, 07:27 PM
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Could just pull off the pump and see if a machinist\ IP shop can remove it
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2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
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1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
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  #10  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
it is pretty hard to cross thread. did you start it by hand first? also it'd be a shame to part the car out over a mistake you made. I don't think thats the right thing to do.

it's a shame I had a spare injection pump for sale and I threw it in the trash because no one wanted it for two months and I had no use for it.
Yes, I started by hand. It was when I was using the torque wrench, it didn't click so I kept going, and then...
I doubt I will part the car. First I'll try to source a pump locally.
Too bad you threw it away!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dude99 View Post
Could just pull off the pump and see if a machinist\ IP shop can remove it
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I might be able to get a good used pump for less than a shop would charge to remove.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel
1987 190e (RIP) - Duke
1983 230e (sold) - Helga
1982 240d (sold) - Igor
1973 280 (sold and missed )
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  #11  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 903hblue View Post
Yes, I started by hand. It was when I was using the torque wrench, it didn't click so I kept going, and then...
I doubt I will part the car. First I'll try to source a pump locally.
Too bad you threw it away!


Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I might be able to get a good used pump for less than a shop would charge to remove.
I think your problem is the torque wrench or you didn't have it set correctly. it's very, very important to get an accurate and quality torque wrench.
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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k
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  #12  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
I think your problem is the torque wrench or you didn't have it set correctly. it's very, very important to get an accurate and quality torque wrench.
Right. Definitely going to chuck the thing.
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1993 300d - Von Strudel
1987 190e (RIP) - Duke
1983 230e (sold) - Helga
1982 240d (sold) - Igor
1973 280 (sold and missed )
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  #13  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
I think your problem is the torque wrench or you didn't have it set correctly. it's very, very important to get an accurate and quality torque wrench.
That's also why I HATE the "click" style torque wrenches. Mine is a dial type, requires access to read the face, but if you do, you're never wrong. I've had way too many issues with the click wrenches failing to click, or clicking in a way that you don't notice it.
__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
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  #14  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
That's also why I HATE the "click" style torque wrenches. Mine is a dial type, requires access to read the face, but if you do, you're never wrong. I've had way too many issues with the click wrenches failing to click, or clicking in a way that you don't notice it.
I'm liking the look of these https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1515288564&sr=8-4&keywords=torque+wrench+adapter
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1993 300d - Von Strudel
1987 190e (RIP) - Duke
1983 230e (sold) - Helga
1982 240d (sold) - Igor
1973 280 (sold and missed )
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  #15  
Old 01-06-2018, 11:20 PM
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I'm not sure I'd trust the accuracy of that with such delicate things such as an injection pump. too much to go wrong! maybe that's just me but I won't risk what is a $900 part new. dial type is your best bet!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
That's also why I HATE the "click" style torque wrenches. Mine is a dial type, requires access to read the face, but if you do, you're never wrong. I've had way too many issues with the click wrenches failing to click, or clicking in a way that you don't notice it.
+1 on the dial type. I have a snap-on click type, but I've never had an issue. They are the only ones I trust. If I were the DIY guy id get one such as yours if it isn't my living

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k
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