Replace 602 with 603 in 92 124 - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Diseasel300 · #31 01-18-2018, 11:04 PM

Is the starter OEM or is it a parts-store rebuild? My SDL came to me with an Auto-Zone rebuild and the solenoid was absolutely packed with axle grease causing the click, but no crank issue. Cleaned it out and haven't had a single issue from it since.

dieselbenz1 · #32 01-18-2018, 11:16 PM

Looks like OEM I had read the tag and had no concerns it was anything but OEM. I did try undoing the 3 phillips screws but my impact driver broke the last time I had used it and another driver was starting to fail heat never helped. Plan B tomorrow whatever that is.

dieselbenz1 · #33 01-19-2018, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by renaissanceman

bet the alternator seized and shredded the belt. Hopefully the engine was not severely overheated and seized...

My 1987 300d went from 85C to 115C in the blink of an eye when my alternator shredded the belt. I got it shut off fast, though and she's still kicking.

Interesting and with a dead starter signs of fuel problems may suggest someone burmt out the starter attempting to get it running then gave up. A warped head would make for hard starting one GP out shouldn't cause a no start.

I'll try spinning the engine with a impact off the crank to get compression numbers all GPs have been removed.

dieselbenz1 · #34 01-19-2018, 03:34 PM

The rear bushing in the starter wore enough that took out the armature. think maybe I sourced the parts. Went back to the yard tO confirm wiring for the online fuel pump was permently connected to an ignition on circuit. This thing had starting problems and fuel problems. The Nissan radiator taken from the car is estimated to be 6 years old.

dieselbenz1 · #35 01-20-2018, 09:33 AM

While waiting on starter parts I pinched off the fuel return line, connected a pressure pump to the inlet of the lift pump and am unable to establish any pressure on the fuel system. More digging into this as I would like to bleed out the fuel system with all the up coming cranking.

No wonder the starer wore out that must had been the final straw why she ended up in the yard? Tiny glimer of hope the engine maybe have some life left. Have the starter repaired and installed now another $130. So now total of 10 hrs labor and $633 into it less my driving time.

vstech · #36 01-20-2018, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

Donar car and after spending $502.23 total 7 hours into it now.

Didn't have much time yesterday inspected turbo looks great spins easy no play at all. Removed and tested GP's all good but one like ohm readings before removal. Removed fan and coupling lots of belt remenants wound between fan and coupling sure looks like it threw a belt at some time. I had thought the guy who took the alternator had just cut the belt. Measured belt size for just running water pump or maybe figure out something else just looking to run engine for a couple hours if it runs at all. Transmission is also full of oil maybe down half L.

Plan is cold compression test, plug in for 4 or 5 hours then a warm compression test then start it. Just waiting on fetching a battery and one colant hose.

Did you pull the intake air filter setup?

Diseasel300 · #37 01-20-2018, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

While waiting on starter parts I pinched off the fuel return line, connected a pressure pump to the inlet of the lift pump and am unable to establish any pressure on the fuel system. More digging into this as I would like to bleed out the fuel system with all the up coming cranking.

The 603's will not build pressure in the fuel system like the 617's will. They don't use a strong spring in the check valve on the IP and also have a bleeder port in the fuel filter housing. The overflow valve on the back of the IP is a metered orifice and has a very weak spring on the check valve portion, it is fuel flow against the orifice that builds pressure in the system, not the spring tension like the 617's. If you moved an adequate amount of fuel through the system, you would develop pressure against the orifice.

As for priming the system, I've had good luck unbolting the lift pump and cycling the plunger several times. The lift pump moves quite a lot of fuel on these engines (far more than the 617's) and it doesn't take a lot of effort to fill the filter and fuel rack.

dieselbenz1 · #38 01-20-2018, 01:47 PM

Ambient temp 36 degrees f, cyl 1 dry 190 wet 280 was turning overslowly I thought then click click arggggg! Battery good but will keep on charger for a few hours try again.

dieselbenz1 · #39 01-20-2018, 03:58 PM

I replaced o rings in fuel filter, checked all other fuel lines primed the system with atf using a boat hand pump could see everything filling once the atf made it to the clear return line. Then fitted a hand pressure pump to the return line and it pressured to 7 psi. Over 10 minutes it leaked down to 5 psi. After searching for the leak i found it coming from where the tail half of the IP joins to the idle control unit. This is 6 inches back of any fuel line.

I'm thinking fuel was getting into the oil for a while as that electric fuel pump modification was not new but looked 4 years old by the amount of crud on it. Guess on the fate of this engine are welcome.

Lift pump needs some new o rings i guess the checks seem to be holding.

dieselbenz1 · #40 01-20-2018, 07:38 PM

Saw your post Diseasel300 regarding your lift pump.]

I drained the engine oil but I can not detect diesel in it. Perhaps they changed the oil new air filter then tried and burn't out the starter and gave up? They perhaps drove for awhile with the electric pump masking an issue. Regardless with a fresh rebuilt starter and it only lasting 20 seconds of cranking. 8 seconds of each test then a rest may suggest bearing damage although I can spin the engine by hand as I would expect.

Diseasel300 · #41 01-20-2018, 08:15 PM

Yeah, the lift pump was kind of a kick in the nuts, at least I caught it before it did serious damage. The O-ring re-seal has worked so far, it's been leak free since.

Since you can turn it over by hand, I wouldn't suspect bearing damage just yet. A crappy starter would be my first suspect. If the starter were locking up, that's one thing, but just failing to engage or turn the engine is a different critter.

dieselbenz1 · #42 01-20-2018, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Did you pull the intake air filter setup?

No but I would be close on Monday if you want it, cost plus shipping a new filter is also in it.

dieselbenz1 · #43 01-21-2018, 04:34 PM

Starter out again fresh oil added lift pump repaired I had difficulties inserting the push rod into the o ring twice the o ring shed a tiny fragrament out the other end. Sucess in the end the fuel system is holding 10 psi for the past hour without any dripping. I rotated the engine with a click type torque wrench and it takes 15 ft lbs average to start rotating. Thats with glow plugs removed and compression tester on no. 2. So thats another 3 hrs.

mbolton1990 · #44 01-21-2018, 06:52 PM

Great job on the save, I almost just bought a spare N/A 602 for my 190 but my 601 runs perfectly and money's kinda tight. In a few years from now these junkyard 60x engines will probably dry up, smart to get them while we still can.. especially on half off.

dieselbenz1 · #45 01-22-2018, 02:23 PM

Ok we have a starter guess a brush spring wasn't in correctlyand we have numbers

36 deg f engine dry and wet

1. 250 320
2. 340 390
3, 300 380
4. 290 400
5. 295 395
6. 290 340

Please have a look at the pictures I may or may not do a warm compression test and move right into starting the engine. When I went to install a belt the idler pully was loose but managed to tighten it up. I've never started an engine out of a car before.