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  #31  
Old 01-18-2018, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
Maybe you have hit the 10 yr mark which had later been removed or changed by programming only.
!0 yr mark has nothing to do with the mechanism(s) in the cars. 10 yr mark was the 100% warranty replacement period from MBUSA.

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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Dealer sells reman unit for about $800.
Sounds fair, in order to have the MB Factory replacement/warranty intact on the repair.

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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
It will be interesting to see what your actuation count is.
How and where can I see/get my CDI's actuator count, on a DIY basis?

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  #32  
Old 01-18-2018, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post

How and where can I see/get my CDI's actuator count, on a DIY basis?
You need a STAR/DAS system.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
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  #33  
Old 01-18-2018, 10:20 PM
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I just started getting the white "brake- visit brake workshop" ... my indie reads the code as "c2131" ... I bought a brake hydro accumulator from Pelican parts ... should I have bought the whole SBC unit or have mine rebuilt instead?
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  #34  
Old 01-19-2018, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MTUpower View Post
I just started getting the white "brake- visit brake workshop" ... my indie reads the code as "c2131" ... I bought a brake hydro accumulator from Pelican parts ... should I have bought the whole SBC unit or have mine rebuilt instead?
If you got the Bosch accumulator for $108, that's not a bad price. How many miles on your car? It may be that you're not far from needing a pump. The nice thing about the outfit in Idaho is that they rebuild the accumulator while rebuilding the pump.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #35  
Old 01-19-2018, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
If you got the Bosch accumulator for $108, that's not a bad price. How many miles on your car? It may be that you're not far from needing a pump. The nice thing about the outfit in Idaho is that they rebuild the accumulator while rebuilding the pump.
193K- so I'm thinking I might as well spend the extra $350 at the same time- but I want to know for sure if a C2131 code means the SBC should be replaced...
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  #36  
Old 01-19-2018, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MTUpower View Post
193K- so I'm thinking I might as well spend the extra $350 at the same time- but I want to know for sure if a C2131 code means the SBC should be replaced...
As far as I can tell, C2131 means a bad accumulator and nothing more. It would be interesting to see what your actuation count is. You may be getting close to C249F and/or C235.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #37  
Old 02-10-2018, 12:07 AM
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Update:

I got the module back from Module Master and installed it. The cost with return shipping was $476. I did not think I could bleed the brakes properly myself, so I bit the bullet and paid my local Euro auto repair to do it. I have Auto Club, so the towing was covered. They had a problem with the communication between their computer and the SBC unit, so it took a long time. They originally quoted me about $160, but that was just for a flush job. They called back after the car was delivered and told me it would be $207. Of course I did not want to pay that much for a brake bleed job, but because of the problem with the system, it cost more. I was told by the rebuilder that the actuation count was reset, and that all that needed to be done was install the module and bleed using STAR DAS. However, the technician tried the sequence several times before it finally took. That in turn used more brake fluid, and cost more. They even tried to charge more than the $207, but I set them straight with the price I was given when the called and said the car was done. If I ever need this type of service again, I am definitely not taking my car there! Also, for some reason the rear ABS does not work. Upon test driving the car, the rear wheels would skid on heavy braking. I know the brakes worked fine before replacing the module, so I have no idea why the brakes are acting this way now. Anyone have any ideas?
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  #38  
Old 02-10-2018, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I got the module back from Module Master and installed it. The cost with return shipping was $476. I did not think I could bleed the brakes properly myself, so I bit the bullet and paid my local Euro auto repair to do it. I have Auto Club, so the towing was covered. They had a problem with the communication between their computer and the SBC unit, so it took a long time. They originally quoted me about $160, but that was just for a flush job. They called back after the car was delivered and told me it would be $207. Of course I did not want to pay that much for a brake bleed job, but because of the problem with the system, it cost more. I was told by the rebuilder that the actuation count was reset, and that all that needed to be done was install the module and bleed using STAR DAS. However, the technician tried the sequence several times before it finally took. That in turn used more brake fluid, and cost more. They even tried to charge more than the $207, but I set them straight with the price I was given when the called and said the car was done. If I ever need this type of service again, I am definitely not taking my car there! Also, for some reason the rear ABS does not work. Upon test driving the car, the rear wheels would skid on heavy braking. I know the brakes worked fine before replacing the module, so I have no idea why the brakes are acting this way now. Anyone have any ideas?
Seems like the first order of business is to see if there are any brake system codes. I would like to think that the mechanic checked to see if there were any codes before finishing up.

I'll be interested to hear how things get resolved as I think I'll use Module Master when the time comes. You might ask them if they have any thoughts regarding the ABS issue.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #39  
Old 02-10-2018, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Seems like the first order of business is to see if there are any brake system codes. I would like to think that the mechanic checked to see if there were any codes before finishing up.

I'll be interested to hear how things get resolved as I think I'll use Module Master when the time comes. You might ask them if they have any thoughts regarding the ABS issue.
That was my first thought as well (asking M. M.), but they were closed for the weekend when I picked up the car. I will call them on Monday. I can only assume there were no codes, and if there were they would have told me. However, I am sure they would have wanted to charge extra for any ABS diagnosis if there was any codes.
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  #40  
Old 02-12-2018, 08:43 AM
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I’m getting the work done shortly and my Indie has said he knows he will have issues bleeding the brakes. I may just tell him to replace the part and send it to the dealer to bleed. I want it done properly and all four wheels to have ABS.
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  #41  
Old 02-12-2018, 09:25 AM
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I can't believe what a numbskull I am!

I should have taken a photo of the top of the SBC unit before removing all the brake lines. I went to youtube and saw that I had two of them mixed up. I quickly switched them, and the brakes work fine now. I know I probably have a small amount of air in the system, and may have to bleed the brakes again. However, a friend has a pressure bleeder, and will help with this so I don't have to pay the shop to do it.
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  #42  
Old 02-20-2018, 06:09 AM
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So I had the indie replace the part - which ended up not being the issue- and the white warning still comes up. No change in braking and no change in white alarm. Indie cannot clear the alarm. What system is needed to do that?
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  #43  
Old 02-21-2018, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTUpower View Post
So I had the indie replace the part - which ended up not being the issue- and the white warning still comes up. No change in braking and no change in white alarm. Indie cannot clear the alarm. What system is needed to do that?
Does your indie have an Xentry system?
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #44  
Old 02-21-2018, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTUpower View Post
No change in braking and no change in white alarm.
I know your mechanic pulled and read a code indicating a bad accumulator, but a bad brake light switch also triggers the white "BRAKE Service brake Visit workshop!" message. Does a failed switch trigger a readable code?

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