W123 4-speed shifter assembly
 

So - I replaced my shift bushings on the shift rods only to find out my shifting still has an oddball quirk to it that I want to track down, and I could use your help, please!

As I understand it, there are three bushings within the 4-speed manual shifter assembly that commonly fail:

115-267-06-76: rectangular-ish washer (30)
115-267-22-50: dampening bushing (13)
115-267-07-50: tophat bushing (23)

See photo for blow up and part/diagram numbers.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5694188482.jpg

I am having an issue where sometimes it is difficult to get the car into first gear from neutral - and by difficult, I mean that it feels as if I have to get the shifter in just the right way to get it smoothly into first - if it doesn’t just fall right into first, it feels as if I’m caught on an “edge” of something and I can give it a little push and it’ll be in first no problem. I have a picture here to try to describe what I’m feeling:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7ec67fbdce.jpg Sometimes it just slides right into first fully and it’s smooth as butter, but other times I kind of push it through the second half before beginning to give it gas and begin releasing the clutch. Rather than pushing it through, I can also just go back to neutral, give it a little right/left play, then try to re-engage first gear and often it’ll slide right into first smoothly if I’m patient.

Also, when shifting to second gear, sometimes I can sort of feel the gears moving just as I drop it into second - like I can feel it catch maybe? Never any grinding or “pushing in through like in first gear, but it’s as if I can feel it catch, which is strange to me.

Third and fourth and reverse are just fine.

I don’t have slop in the shifter, it has very good spring action to the right from 2 to 3, the reverse pull up spring is fine, but it’s just that weird almost narrowing feeling first gear engagement and then the slight momentary gear grabbing sensation shifting into second. It kinda had me think that part 30 (the rectangle-ish washer that I believe is the safety to keep you from getting reverse when downshifting over to 1-2) washer was blown up, but I’m not sure.

I jumped to thinking the shifter assembly needed to be removed, cleaned, and re-bushed, but I’m not getting other warning signs that this is needed. Maybe my shift rods need adjusting? Worn synchros? Maybe I’m just not driving the car that well with my footwork?!

Lastly, if anyone is even remotely near Cincinnati and would be kind enough to potentially wrench with me sometime, I’d love to learn more and get the benefit of some time honored W123 wisdom! I’d be happy to provide lunch/dinner/beers and a six pack for the road!




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FYI, these were the most helpful threads I’ve found on the issue of rebuilding the shifter assembly:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/g-class/2236810-photo-diy-manual-transmission-floor-shifter.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/300990-1983-240d-shifter-repair.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/335351-manual-transmission-240d-shifter-assembly-rebuild.html


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I know prior owner replaced the clutch slave, so I’m following the recent 240D clutch engagement thread - went ahead and ordered the three bushings for the floor shifter from local dealer (cheaper than peach, FYI).

Any advice or input from anyone?? I’m not thrilled about the prospect of pulling apart the shifter because I just can’t determine if the issue is there. I replaced the bushings and clips on the shift rods already, which was necessary, but didn’t fix the issue....thanks in advance for any help!


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BUMP

Got the bushings this week and reaallyyyy would like to NOT have to do this if anyone can come up with some other idea.....please!!


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If I were you, I would isolate the issue to being that particular "gate" by swapping shift rods over. Eg. make the 1/2 gate now 3/4 and vice versa.

I thought the shift rods were particular to each gate? Am I just wrong? So you’re saying just switch my 1/2 shift rod with 3/4 shift rod? I may be able to source a new 1/2 shift rod locally - I’ll check, thanks for the advice!!


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I like your drawing! I apologize for not reading the whole post(s). I suspect the bushing in the shifter itself.

Get under the car and see if there's any free play in the 1-2 lever on the transmission. You should feel that it's definately connected to the internals all the way. If it feels loose, It's a 7 or 8mm allen key to tighten it up and don't pull it out because it's hard to get back in.

Did you put the alignment pin in the shifter and adjust the length of all the shift rods and then remove the pin? Oil fresh, full and clean in the trans?
Good luck!!!

Yyyeessss, the gurus have arrived to save this novice from his own inexperience!! Thank you all!!! I’ll check everything you all mentioned, but I can say I took the car to a great Benz indy and they replaced trans fluid this winter and said it looked great.


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When I meant swap the rods over, I just meant to check the issue was at the shifter and not in the synchro or whatever. But as stated above even just disconnecting the 1/2 rod and moving the lever from underneath might tell you that.

Got it, thanks!


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Update: got the shifter out, pics to follow. Note you can slide the flat part of the in between plastic armrest thing (where the fader and hazard switch are) backwards towards the rear wheels and then pull each side inward and two little clips will come undone and it will raise up half an inch. To get all the way off, there is one last sort of pole like retainer that can be pinched and pulled backwards - it is in the middle of that plastic deck right on the back just above where the change tray begins.

Once that’s off, four 10mm screws gets the shifter out - assuming you removed the three shift rod retaining clips under the car first.

Notice my big tophat bushing is toast - it looked fine at first and I thought damn, did this for nothing! Then it fell right out onto the ground....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...358dbc4017.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec8db93823.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b5553d361e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7897ed3ff7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0a2e1167c9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...569d132d94.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0ccf4f8aac.jpg


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Annddd I’m stuck. Any ideas of how to get this bolt/washer thing undone? The directions I’m working off of are posted below too, and they mention a “circlip,” but you can see his shifter is ever so slightly different - the idea is definitely the same and it looks like some kinda lock washer under this other washer but I need to get this bolt out and can’t see how - please help! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...70eb2781a3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5b04d5624.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1717d4e7a4.jpg


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Got it, moving on....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b2a7a96122.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8dd25446d3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d70614f980.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a581fa64fc.jpg


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Well......three for three, bushings completely shot

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e3dae4ca0c.jpg


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Doncha just love simple solutions ? .

I hope you're going to clean all those filthy parts Hospital clean before greasing and re installing them .

Good work!

I need to do all that with the shifter and rods in my Studebaker truck.

? Column shift ? .

Remember to block the lever *exactly* in neutral then adjust the shift rods so they slip into the tranny shift arms *perfectly* then use super thin flat washers to shim them so they're easy to move fore & aft but not floppy .

You'll love the improvement and your truck's tranny will thank you .

Well - got the shifter body back together after about three hours of fiddling with the damned spring washers annnddddd upon throwing out the old bushings, noticed that UNDER THE DAMNED GREASE in the tophat bushing, there is a WASHER that serves to save the back end of the damned tophat from blowing out. When you see people with a blown out tophat, they prob forgot that damn washer - where the tophat brim pops off, that’s normal. Screw it, thinking I might fabricate a safety plate so the tophat can’t get blown out because getting those washers right again might kill me.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b61e6f6974.jpg


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Not a column shift!

Blick.

W123 4-speed shifter assembly
 

Yup, no damn way I’m taking this all back apart for that washer. I could see how you could bend a light sheet metal bracket over the end of that tophat and then run it around the sides so you end up putting the two (of four) driver’s side 10mm screws that hold the shifter down through the sheet metal.

It’s actually not a bad idea given the rim of the tophat does its own job holding the shift arms in place and the cap does its own job of holding the spring in. So even if the cap separates from the rim (super common), it’ll still be doing its job and much better so than if just relying on the driver’s side dash board to hold it on like most people. And even if the spring punched through the tophat, the sheet would be enough to largely keep it in place.

Hell, maybe even something I can convince Ken to make and sell......


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W123 4-speed shifter assembly
 

Also entertaining the idea of using JB Plastic weld, scoring the outside of that semi circle bump the tophat goes into and just permanently welding that plastic into place. Thoughts?

I guess it would be prudent to just leave it as is for now and wait until that spring busts through and then attempt a fix.....who knows, maybe the spring won’t bust through for many years....

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W123 4-speed shifter assembly
 

Shifter reinstalled......shifts completely differently! Reverse used to be WAY further left, and there was just generally a lot more movement. Now it is quite tight and very clear that the weird tight shift I’d sometimes get into first was just the shifter slightly missing the gate and then pushing through. This pic and the description from our buddy helped as well:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...713da75d72.jpg

https://**************.com/problems/transmission/manual-transmission-shift-linkage-binding


Now onto some power steering and fuel filter work....


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Hi Nate,

I'm planning on doing this same job on my '83 240D. I'm wondering if you could provide more information on cleaning and greasing the parts? Would I just use brake fluid to clean them? What type of grease do I apply and how much?

Brake cleaner, not fluid I imagine.

Having done this I recommend taking it all apart and getting the washer in were it belongs. I know the feeling of being committed and once past the goal line not wanting to go back again, but second time through will take no time at all when compared to starting all over again not knowing the way.

Good luck!

Tom

Linkage Service / Repair
 

I'd begin by cleaning it all well before taking anything apart, I use the purple degreaser suggested by Rich some time ago, it's very gentle to paint and rubber/plastic parts .

Certainly NO BRAKE CLEANER .

Consider trying the dilute DAWN dish soap in a spray bottle, I dilute the purple stuff three parts water to one part purple cleaner, SAMS CLUB employees typically have no knowledge of this product even when I bring in the empty jug with stock number on it...

It's in the office supply section of the SAMS near S.W.M.B.O.'s house .

Spray bottles from the .99 cents only store ~ I bought some nifty looking ones from COSTCO and discovered they're _worthless_ for anything containing soap ~ the top falls right off the filled bottle, no way to make it stay in place, money wasted .

Try to have all the parts in hand when you begin and print out at least two copies of that image, one to take under the car and scribble notes on and get filthy & oily, "cheat sheets" are a wonderus thing but only if you remember to make them first .

The bushings proper are nylon and so don't require lubrication, if you insist, use aerosol silicone .

Take and share some pictures before, during and after , we like to see how and it was before cleaning and touching .

Got tired of the long shift gate, way forward,way back.
Added 1" to lower shift arms,now a 4-5 inch gate. Loved it.

How did you add an inch? Did you cut them and weld an extra inch of material in?

Thanks for correcting that, yes I meant to say brake cleaner

Yes I appreciate this thread because I likely would have forgotten that washer. But since I read this first I found the washer and pulled it out.

Yes, cut and welded in. So much nicer.

Shift arms need to be off, I was rebuilding shifter at the time.

I was able to get this job done, still working on getting pictures. But wanted to mention that I had trouble with the spring load washers as well, particularly getting everything aligned so I could push the rod through. Eventually I noticed how the trapezoidal bushing insert was tapered. The way I got it to work was to insert everything except the bushing insert, push the rod through, then pull the rod, carefully insert the bushing insert, and then push the rod through. It worked very nicely for me. Hope this helps anyone else that might struggle with that step in the future.

Here are a couple pictures of the housing and how dirty it was.

Interior Munge
 

That's not so bad, if the previous owners were smokers or worse kids, I have found incredibly nasty gooey crud not only there but also deep in the tunnel's carpets and under the floor mats etc.

It's a serious labor of love but removing the seats and carpets for a thorough cleaning makes the car smell lots better .