Actually the pressurized Oil feeds the tappets inside of the Fuel Injection Pump. After that it is more flow then pressure as well as gravity that flows it out of the Fuel Injection Pump.

So those 2 O-rings on the element are there to keep the Fuel in.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Which 2 O-rings, you are confusing me a bit here.

Crow's foot is what you need, either get a nice metric set that you will use for a long time, or a cheapo set from Harbor Freight and don't put too much torque on them beyond what you would do with a box-end wrench.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I believe there is another O-ring that seals the bottom of the Element and it is likely suck down inside at the bottom of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Is there any reason there is such conflicting information regarding these pumps? I cannot get a solid answer on what is inside these injectors and pumps haha.

From my research over the past week, I am almost certain that any fuel leak I am having is going to be inside the delivery valve. It can't be the o-ring I posted before because oil would leak there, not diesel.

Now the question is where do I order those seals? From what I read there is only a copper crush washer? Could it be possible my OM617.950 has those rubber o-rings?

Thanks for all the help guys! I am sure I am annoying you with stupid questions.

On my OM603 and OM606 engines: 004-997-45-40 Delivery valve copper washer

I don't know if your car uses the same part, I think the odds are very good that it does.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I literally was reading through some threads and JUST ordered those locally because they said it was the same. I am hoping this cures my leaking fuel. I am going to do this on the weekend in my garage.

UPDATE: So I ordered those copper o-rings from mercedes and they work great! However, I still have the leak lol. I will take another video and post it up later this week.

I will say after replacing the copper o-rings and cleaning up the area, the car idles much smoother.

Keep us posted .

I was unable to get the new 14MM copper crush rings from The M-B Classic Center, they claimed 'obsolete' so I used some from Amazon, they're not -quite- the exact size but using the torque wrench ensured no leaks .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I used part number I found in another thread. They look to be very close in size to what I had in there. What is the torque spec suppose to be btw?

I don't rightly recall, it's fairly tight, I'm sure someone who's near their FSM will kindly post the correct value of NM and Lb. Ft. shortly .

The ones I bought from Amazon too were very close in size .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

The answer was already given - almost nobody here has ever dove in beyond simply removing the delivery valves, and most only did that on #1 for the "drip timing" test. The youtube video cautions not to touch the 2 nuts and plate on each injector circuit.

First, insure the leak isn't coming from the injector tubes. It is common for them to crack at the round joint, though usually that is only on the engine end. If sure you must dive into the "2 nuts & plate you shouldn't touch", I suggest photo-graphing and/or marking the plate locations and religiously documenting the shims. I would try to use Viton O-rings for any replacements, since last longer than nitrile (buna-N). HF sells a kit or ebay.

My guess is that the Bosch calibration is to adjust each until you get equal flow from all 5 circuits. To do so under the shade-tree, you might put tygon tubes to beakers to test this while cranking the engine over. Testing under back-pressure might be important, in which case you might need to install injectors in the air. Weighing each beaker (less tare weight) would be more accurate than using the marks. I did similar for my fuel injected gas cars, using a cheap set of small glass beakers from Big Lots and an electronic scale from HF. Good luck and please report back w/ photos to help others. No shame in trying and failing, since much better than commenting without ever swinging a wrench. I would also guess that after 300,000 miles, the initial calibration is long history and re-adjusting an IP would help bring back a smooth idle, but just guessing. You can be the pioneer.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans