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Old 02-01-2018, 05:14 PM
Mad Scientist
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,508
Don't use just whatever random hose. Warm diesel will do bad things to some kinds of hose, and if you have a biodiesel mandate like my state does, the biodiesel will destroy even gasoline fuel line that's not biodiesel rated.

There are plastic/chemical tolerance charts available, this is just the first one I googled:

You can verify the composition of your replacement hose and see if it'll work.

But mostly it's a waste of time. Go to your auto parts store, get Gates Barricade or any other high quality biodiesel compatible fuel line, and be happy.

617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 44k miles on swap
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Old 02-01-2018, 06:04 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,576
Like above, I used 5/16" Gates Barricade from NAPA (buy by foot). It is stamped "for bio-diesel" so fine for D2 too. I used "fuel-injection" hose clamps, but any smooth type will work. Many cars have used nylon fuel hose for decades and you can find repair kits in auto parts, because it does crack from age and gasoline exposure. It actually costs more than metal, but perhaps is cheaper to manufacturers and/or easier to install fittings. You put the end in a pot of boiling water to soften, slide on the wavy nipple and it forms to it as it cools. But, rubber hose is easier. People who tried Tygon hose for the injector over-flows found it degrades in a few months. Barricade hose has a thin inner liner (Viton?) which resists chemicals.

1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
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