What's way to repair plastic fuel lines
There are several plastic fuel lines on a 617. For example from the primer pump to the fuel filter housing. Some of those lines are starting to weep. What's the fix?
A source for replacement lines isn't obvious. |
If it's just plastic, you should be able to get replacements at Home Depot or Lowes. I'm not sure why you couldn't replace them with rubber.
Dkr. |
Cut them off at the nipples leaving the plastic on the nipple itself, and install 5/16" hose onto that.
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People have done as NZScott said and others like myself removed the Plastic entirely and replace it with Hose. But, I thought others said to use 3/8 hose when you leave the plastic on the nipple.
However, descriptions are in the repair links. The Trick is to heat the plastic with butane lighter just enough to soften it and they grab the unheated portion of the line and yank the plastic tube off. Also remember if you heat the plastic tube the banjo also gets hot. you can use a pliers with tape on the jaws to hold the banjo part. |
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Not all plastic or plastic looking lines can hold up with warm diesel fuel inside of them. |
So why not just replace it with rubber fuel lines? Is there something I am missing?
Dkr. |
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You can also get replacement lines ordered from the dealer... But yeah, rubber fuel line works well too, but ya can’t see through it to check for bubbles etc... |
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I didn't want to have to make standard hose fit and and search for proper clamps if it was easy to find a suitable plastic hose that would simply push on and not leak. I remember years ago dealing with a gravity feed water system in rural TN. Poly butyl pipe ran along the ground to the holding tank and was used to plump the house. That stuff always leaked. The joint where the male connector was forced into the pipe weakened the pipe wall and it eventually leaked. The leak would either make a mess &/or allow air into the system which would require priming the pump and bleeding the air - pretty inconvenient especially in the winter. |
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Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html Might be some info here: Source of tygothane plastic line http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2579258#post2579258 The problem with the hard plastic line is that it is difficult to push the banjo end into the line. |
the plastic lines are 8X1mm PA12 nylon you can cut the old ones off the barbs and re-do them with new line and pinch clamps. i ordered 10 feet of PFA teflon 8X1 line and a pack of 5/16 to 3/8 pich clamps from Mcmaster to do mine. the PFA line is resistant to all fuels and chemicals and will never degrade. https://www.mcmaster.com/#52545k42/=1bdkibs https://www.mcmaster.com/#5733k76/=1bdkimi
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Try shrinkwrap . Its a plastic tube you heat up ,,and it contracts on to existing fuel line.Only thing is feeding it on first before heating it up with hairdryer ..
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Seriously though, bad idea. Shrink tubing softens with heat, even the heat that's available in the engine bay. |
5/16" Gates Barricade fuel line and hose clamps, has lasted the last 40k or whatever miles I've put on my swap with no issues.
Are you current hoses clear enough to see air through? Of course not. |
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The way to fix them is replace them. Just go to home depot and get some rubber hose is your best bet.
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