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  #16  
Old 02-04-2018, 06:32 PM
multi string slinger
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA United States
Posts: 113
I will take some measurements of the wheel height and the wheel well height tomorrow. For the mean time, here is a video of what the front end is doing when going over bumps.

Please go to this link for the video https://youtu.be/pLKuj9Gdq3s It should start playing from a few seconds before the speed bumps but in case it doesnt and start from a while back,

Please watch from 3:20 onwards. https://youtu.be/pLKuj9Gdq3s

Thank you all for the words of advice.

I currently have Lesjofor springs in the rear with the 3 nub spring pads. I assume this is the most I can raise the back.

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  #17  
Old 02-04-2018, 07:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
I did not notice any Real Speed bumps....
I suggest you go to a parking lot and go back and forth over some real speed bumps..
that was great video..
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  #18  
Old 02-05-2018, 07:10 PM
multi string slinger
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA United States
Posts: 113
I did go over a few bumps. Pretty much starts at the beginning of the video.

Also, if anyone has noticed, my engine block jumps as well. I am suspecting that the "thunk" I am hearing inside the car (and in the video) is the engine going up and down. Can someone please chime in?

Can bad motor mounts allow this to happen? My mounts and stabilizer shock are 1 year old. I used Lemfoerder/Phoenix mounts - which are OEM. They perform really when new but my engine shakes and lopes a lot at idle since I had some weird timing issue so I suspect the mounts are worn out now. However the engine jumping up and down seems kind of crazy.
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  #19  
Old 02-05-2018, 07:18 PM
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Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by guyonabuffalo View Post
I did go over a few bumps. Pretty much starts at the beginning of the video.

Also, if anyone has noticed, my engine block jumps as well. I am suspecting that the "thunk" I am hearing inside the car (and in the video) is the engine going up and down. Can someone please chime in?

Can bad motor mounts allow this to happen? My mounts and stabilizer shock are 1 year old. I used Lemfoerder/Phoenix mounts - which are OEM. They perform really when new but my engine shakes and lopes a lot at idle since I had some weird timing issue so I suspect the mounts are worn out now. However the engine jumping up and down seems kind of crazy.
I felt the same thing on mine after doing the mounts. I left the shocks, though. Actually one is disconnected.

Check your drive shaft support bushings. If it's toasted, the shaft will thud in its bracket. I have a new part here waiting to go into mine.
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  #20  
Old 02-06-2018, 10:21 AM
bigpanda16's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 289
I would cut 3/4 of a coil off the front Springs and call it a day
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  #21  
Old 02-06-2018, 10:28 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by guyonabuffalo View Post
Hi folks,

My 2nd thread for the day. I mentioned that I have been hit with a few problems lately and here is the 2nd (first being the leaky radiator)

I recently changed all 4 springs and shocks.

Used Lesjofors springs and Bilstein comfort/OEM shocks.

While the ride quality is excellent, my ride height is garbage. I am suspecting the springs I got, at least for the front are meant for the turbo (heavier engine etc). I used new spring pads with the 2 nubs - just the like the originals I replaced.

Before replacing the springs, I did compare the overall height with the old one and there was an obvious difference; however I just assumed it was because the old springs had sagged over time, didnt expect the ride height to go up this much.

Keep in mind, the pictures attached are after an alignment (which helped a bit and the car now drives nice); however the raised front end definitely looks off to me.

Also, when I go over speed bumps at a reasonable speed, there is a big "thump". It almost feels like my wheels lose contact with the ground and then slam down faster than the nose of the car. I could be wrong but just my theory. I will try to attach a camera somewhere in the wheel well to get some footage of this and hopefully post soon.

Any advice from the seasoned members here would be greatly appreciated.

Worst case scenario, these springs are meant for the turbo engine and not suitable for my car. In which case, I would be willing to trade with someone for the right type of springs (even used). A friend even suggested cutting a coil - I feel squeamish about doing that.

Your responses are greatly appreciated.
Why did you change your springs?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #22  
Old 02-06-2018, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpanda16 View Post
I would cut 3/4 of a coil off the front Springs and call it a day
Are you sure in giving that advice that the springs and rubber associated with it would FIT ....?

or would it need to be one exact coil turn that needs to be taken off ?
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  #23  
Old 02-06-2018, 01:26 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Maybe if they aren't broken he should just put the stock springs back in. I have found them to be very durable and cannot remember ever having to replace one.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #24  
Old 02-06-2018, 01:53 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
The 123 FSM has a section devoted to all the spring and pad combinations and calculations for each model. For instance, a bone stock stripper (no AC, manual trans, no sunroof, manual windows and seats) gets one combination, but a fully-optioned car gets another. When I bought my 123.190 it had the wrong front springs (I suspect for a US wagon, mine was a Euro car with no AC, manual trans, manual windows and sunroof) and I thought it rode too high in front. I did some research and determined via EPC that the 240D springs were correct for my car, so I got a used set and fixed that problem.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
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  #25  
Old 02-06-2018, 04:24 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
The 123 FSM has a section devoted to all the spring and pad combinations and calculations for each model. For instance, a bone stock stripper (no AC, manual trans, no sunroof, manual windows and seats) gets one combination, but a fully-optioned car gets another. When I bought my 123.190 it had the wrong front springs (I suspect for a US wagon, mine was a Euro car with no AC, manual trans, manual windows and sunroof) and I thought it rode too high in front. I did some research and determined via EPC that the 240D springs were correct for my car, so I got a used set and fixed that problem.
They really are OCD about it... and also in terms of ' left to right' levels too.. a paper manual for these cars is wonderful reading...
It takes about 7 manuals to have all the original info
then they also put out paper yearly combo FSM's which relate '' Tech Bulletins '' for fixing things they learn about from dealer feedback...
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  #26  
Old 02-06-2018, 06:10 PM
multi string slinger
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA United States
Posts: 113
Thanks for all the input, everyone. Just measured the spring thickness and it is 15.8mm like the FSM states for the turbo., Should have checked before making the purchase,

t walgamuth - Unfortunately, I left my old springs next to a recycling bin, so they have since vanished. Also, there was really nothing wrong with the springs other than age related sag. I just changed them because I wanted all new components...sigh.

I have been considering cutting 1 coil off since I have now determined that my springs are meant for a turbo. That being said, getting these springs on was a giant pain in the @$$. The holes on top of my shock tower are exactly the same diameter as the spring compressor tool shaft. It was fairly easy to get it in but getting it out took forever. Either way, I m just wondering if I want to go through that ordeal again - taking a coil off will make it easier to get the spring back on and lower the ride height to what I like but do I really want to feel like I was pummeled by a million sandbags the next day?....

Last edited by guyonabuffalo; 02-06-2018 at 06:31 PM.
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  #27  
Old 02-06-2018, 06:55 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
Question: I remember reading some easy way to use the spring compressor on the 123. Is it possible to enlarge the hole without damaging the car? Sorry, I don't remember the details just that there was some trick. Many here have removed the springs using the cheap spring compressor.
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  #28  
Old 02-06-2018, 07:02 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
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[QUOTE=guyonabuffalo;3786583]
I have been considering cutting 1 coil off since I have now determined that my springs are meant for a turbo......but do I really want to feel like I was pummeled by a million sandbags the next day?....[/QUOTE

I hate to mention this... but cutting that coil off... will lower the car
but will NOT change the Spring Rate
meaning it will still be stiff...
You were right to put in new springs..
sorry you wound up with the Turbo weight ones..
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  #29  
Old 02-06-2018, 07:07 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,632
Cutting off a coil will make it a little stiffer, but probably not that bad, the mb springs from the factory are pretty soft.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #30  
Old 02-06-2018, 07:46 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
I don't think it will make it stiffer or softer.. since the ' wire size' is not being changed..
but only lower the front end... I was addressing his complaint about how stiff it was...I think he would have to change to the proper wire size to ' fix ' that ......

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