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Front Suspension Rebuild Help For Green Horn
I've never done any kind of suspension work in my life, so I know nearly nothing about it's main and supporting components. You can NOT offend me by giving me "obvious/too much info"
So, my car failed inspection due to worn suspension parts, I knew this was going to happen so it wasn't a shocker. My goal is to replace as many old parts as I can. My list consists of the following for the front. Idler Arm repair Kit Left and right tie rod assembly Steering damper - (I know you don't NEED it but I want to replace regardless) Center Link Guide rod mount Stabilizer Bar Control arm repair kit 1263300075 Sachs shocks x2 Control Arm Ball Joints (already have at hand) Did I miss anything by chance? What kind of special tools do I need in order to replace the following components above, I don't want to leave anything on the table. Also would it be best to do everything at once (one side at a time of course)? And in what order should I work in the suspension from the out side in? Ex [OUT SIDE] Tie rods to ---- ???? [INSIDE] [OUT SIDE] Control arm to --- ???? [INSIDE] If that makes sense. Thanks!
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#2
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Funny, I'm about to start the same project. You are going to need a spring compressor, there are some chinese made ones available on ebay and amazon. Or, you could try and rent one from several members on this web site, You may be able to rent a higher quality compressor from a forum member.
I'm planning on acquiring a full facial coverage motorcycle helmet just in case a spring goes postal. I'm also considering chaining or tieing a heavy duty rope from the spring to the car chassis. there are too many stories about mercedes srpings causing serious injury, so any measures you can take to insure your personal safety are worth it. You will also need to purchase two (2) eccentric pin/bolt kits from either this web site or ebay. When you get into it, you may not need them, but then again, you might so best to have them on the ready. I figure while I'm in the middle of it, I'm going to check out the condition of the brakes rotors and pads and if they need replaced, go ahead and replace them. This is a fairly extensive job, some people choose to take their mercedes to a front end suspension shop instead of DIY. I know if I had the coin, I'd take the car to a professional shop, sit back and drink a starbucks while they did the work. |
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I heard that by looseing lowering the control arm you relieve a lot of tension from the spring, allowing you to use the cheap spring compressor with far less risk. They also said doing may destroy the old bushing so it's wise to have new ones in hand. I'll add the eccentric bolts and pins. I'd be delighted to borrow tools if possible, would make life much easier.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
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What's worn out? Replace only what's broken and failed on the inspection. That's where people go wrong fixing things that aren't broken.
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Only diesels in this driveway. 2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black 2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k 2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k |
#5
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As I know of. Tie rods Front Control arms Idler arm Shocks Steering dampener Center link are all shot. I'll check other components when I get time
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
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Wait! I think I hear some tappet noise. Have you changed your oil recently?
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#7
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At 300k, the car needs it all if original.
Add coil springs to your list as they do sag with age. BTDT. Same with new shims. Caster rod/guide rod mounts fail pretty often on these as they take the load and debris from the road can puncture the boot, ball joints last a long while. The clover looking deal on the back of the guide rod bush will induce some noise before the bushing fails. You can always reboot a BJ if you catch it early enough, I have after a front end build. Remove that back cover and whack the caster rod on the ground and the old assembly will pop right out, seriously. Clean that scale in there until shiny. Toss them in the freezer and prep your hydraulic press, they go in easy with Astroglide or the like. Consider replacing the two bushings per bracket too. LCA bushings are a nightmare to press in square. I suggest buying an additional kit just in case and/or finding a shop that can do them. I lack the skill or tools to press all three pieces in correctly. I bought the BJ tool and it has paid for itself many times over. Many people rig up all sorts of things for those, once you use the real tool for the BJs you will never try another way. A 5lb sledge and a 27mm? socket works perfect to pound the old ones out. Spray with Kroil or the like and let sit overnight. I have done front ends on five W126 now, I am faster each time but certainly there are more tricks I have yet to discover. Just mark it all and pull it all out at once. A scribe is your pal here on the LCA eccentrics to get you in the ball park. Use a tape measure to make the caster rods as close as you can. Agreed on brake rotors, if questionable... do them. Repack the bearings is a given. Mind their specific end play! You will be amazed how tight and quiet a fresh front end is on these cars. Hope you can find a shop smart enough to align these, bad tires will induce pull. I think we add about 1* additional caster on passenger side due to road curvature. Good luck!
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#8
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Front end rebuild thread
I have a rebuild thread here somewhere (a few years old) if you care to search. The whole job is not that difficult. Removing the springs is definitely the most challenging part of the job, but not as bad as it could be without the proper spring compressor. The first one I did with with the cheap threaded rod type. It was sussessful, but very scary to say the least. I had better luck starting with the weight on the spring, as the tool seemed not long enough to work with the spring extended. I could not get the spring compressed enough to get it in its place, and still have enough threads started in the compressor. You might have a different experience than I, so try it first with no load on the spring (suspension fully extended, and shock disconnected). Although I doubt the spring will spit itself out, I would still have your jack under the LCA for safety.
For the LCA bushings, you can use threaded Rod and washers/nuts if you don't have a press (a big vise works good too). I used the HF "C" press to install the lower ball joints, and it worked great. Yes a press and the purpose made tool is better, but I did not have the time to wait for delivery of the tool (already had the front end apart), nor the money for the tool.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#9
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I just completed this, and I'm also a fellow Hampton Roads-er (though in ATL now).
Feel free to shoot me a DM, it sounds like you have about the same experience level I did when I started. I'd be happy to chat with you in real time if it's helpful. |
#10
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Thank you, I 'll definitely reach out to you.
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
#11
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The inexpensive spring compressors from FleaBay work. I didn't like the amount of tension but it held. I market the compressor so that I could know the plate was engaged properly with the shaft. Take your time and be sure that the plates properly engage with the spring. You don't want the thing to fly across the room or into your head. Grease the threaded part of the compressor.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#12
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Have someone close by with a phone to call 911 just in case.... I actually recommend that on a job like this OR brake work one either watch someone else do it the first time.. or at least have them supervise you closely... steering, suspension and brakes are not things to take chances on not being SAFE... or being Done in a SAFE manner....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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Tool: Get a Harbor Freight Saw-z-all and good blades from another store so you can cut apart whatever is too rusty to waste time on. I'm not familiar with inner bushings on the lower control arm on a 126, I've done that job on 123 and 124, and it is a real pain. Old bushings need to be cut apart and forced out. If you find rust on the inner surface of the LCA, you need to either clean up the rust or buy a new LCA if the rust is too deep.
Another Tool: Harbor Freight big massive C-clamp for front end bushings. I use this to install the new bushings (I coat them with castor oil as lube) and the inner sleeve, the opening on the C-clamp opposite the threaded rod "pusher" gives access to the part of the sleeve that needs to be peened to hold the assembly in place. Ball peen hammer (third tool), held in place on the sleeve, strike the other side of the hammer with a hammer or mallet or whatever. I've also made good use of a massive piece of all-thread rod with big washers and sockets to help remove old bushings. A blue wrench (torch) may also be useful.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#14
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I had one of these grit blades last 20 years with me using it regularly... let the grit do the work... amazing... this is not the only brand of grit sawszall blades.. just an example ... https://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/cutting/48-00-1430
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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