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  #1  
Old 02-09-2018, 08:08 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 80
Timing chain replacement and valve job-what is reasonable and where to go

First off hello everybody I know it has been a while,I hope everyone is doing fine and well.

This is for Shatzel (yes that is the license plate-got from original owner 11 years
ago 1985 300 sd).

Just turned 253k miles time to do some major service.Oil changed every 3k miles,
valves adjusted every 15k miles.

So what do you think is reasonable for timing chain and guides ? I was thinking
about 2k.

Second where in the Los Angeles area you would feel good about getting it done.Yes I miss Enrique dearly (Mr MB Motors). Vic is nice but no Enrique and when
we brought her down (Saturday is now by appointment) and driving 100 miles from Bakersfield,it is not the same.

Thanks everyone and take care

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  #2  
Old 02-09-2018, 09:32 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,484
The more conservative and knowledgeable members measure the chain stretch to see if the chain needs replacing. I think the general consensus is that chains need replacing around 200K. I'd recommend you change the tensioner, examine the tensioner guide at this time along with the other upper guides.

If the vacuum pump hasn't been replaced it has the potential to destroy the engine too.

I have no idea what people in Cali charge for this work. It's probably more than a car is worth. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2018, 10:48 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,277
In my signature is a good thread describing the procedure for measuring the ' timing chain elongation '......

Everything that Touches the chain , plus the chain, is the standard recommendation for a chain replacement because SELDOM does the actual chain break... a calamity usually involves something in contact with the chain coming loose and causing a ' hard stop' .

When Judges look at a Blue book and tell someone their car is worth ' not much' or the Insurance company tries the same thing... I have a problem with that... a car which you have had for 11 years taking care of what needs to be fixed... is often worth more in the bigger picture than a new car where you are still waiting to hear what Recalls are going to be called for.. often which were covered up for years of deaths by the manufacturer... AND the cost of something like a chain replacement.... compared to a new car not bought with saved cash... meaning you are paying interest on the money AND having to carry Insurance which will not likely compensate you for the actual usefulness of your car....is still a good buy.
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Old 02-10-2018, 05:16 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,543
If my 2 cars are a judge, at 253K miles, your timing chain has barely worn. All you might need is to install an offset key in the upper sprocket, and probably the smallest one (2 deg = 4 deg at crank). That is a cheap part and a fairly quick and easy job, next time you are having the valves adjusted. But, measure first so you buy the right key (here on P-P). And don't let a gomer mechanic touch it. A smart guy will stuff rags in the chain cavity so the key isn't dropped, use a magnet, use bungie cords and wire to secure the sprocket to chain relation and not let the chain loosen and bunch up, or miss a tooth down below, and other obvious care.

I wouldn't worry about valve guides. As long as the valve stems aren't wobbly, there is no concern. Unlike gas cars, there is no intake vacuum to suck oil past the guides, and even if it did the oil would just burn like diesel does. Indeed, I have heard of rings so worn that oil past the rings causes the engine to keep running on that, though may be apocryphal stories.

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