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I made my own by taking a 7mm drill bit and drilling out an old glow plug. then set the length at just past a new glow plug and welded the threads to the drill bit. Now I just thread in till it bottoms out the threads. I ream out any time I pull a glow plug, as it only takes a few seconds and they come out much easier and cold starts are much better after reaming.
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If you're gonna make one, a drill bit is the better way to go.
1. You drill the hole in the glow plug with the same bit 2. It has more chip clearance than a reamer. I.e. it can hold more carbon. 3. A drill bit cuts into the carbon better than a reamer. |
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Glow Plug Service
Thanx for all the good replies .
I have a set of reamers, I hope one is the proper 12 X 1.25 MM . I too was lazy and didn't do this important service when I replaced my glow plugs, as mentioned normal carbon buildup causes shorter glow plug life although you may it have had it yet happen . |
Not to stir the pot and say you don't need to- but on my '83 300d with 250k+ miles (broken odometer) and an entirely unknown maintenance history, i did not ream the holes. All of my glow plugs backed out with no issues, as with going in. i had two dead plugs- one that simply would not glow at all and one that the end melted off of and destroyed the prechamber and injector. I believe the prev owner said he used ether to start it so maybe that did it.
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Use of the vehicle is definitely another factor. If the car gets long distances at higher speeds, like my 240/300 cars do-- probably not an issue. Each one of my cars gets at least one 1000 mile trip per month, except the HMMWV engine in the truck, but that one gets periodic multi-thousand mile trips. I worry more about carbon buildup in the gassers that are not used so much, or the 1950 170D |
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Actually the stock mercedes type reamers have been doing their job for a long time now. I have never seen a thread on any of the Mercedes forums that I used to visit where someone had issues with the Stock type Glow Plug Reamer. As you thread the stock reamer in the the crud gets pushed to the rear and there always seemed to be extra room in the rear when you were done. If you think the older stock reamers were not effective look at the new Hazet ones that are likely a lot more expensive. |
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"The" reamer, no, but something that accomplishes that purpose, very much so.
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So we have come to the conclusion that a 7mm drill bit is better than a reamer??
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I'm happy I'm so rich I can afford Kent's reamer. One of the luxuries in life a millionaire can apparently afford which is evidently out of reach of the little guy:D
- Peter. |
A drill bit isn't better than a reamer. Spend the actual $50 on the Hazet reamer. If you don't want the plugs to eventually weld to the head and break, get a reamer. If you're selling the car and don't care about the next guy have at it. Cutting corners on a drill bit instead of buying the tool that is designed for your engine to me is bizarre. You got a Benz why not spend the money and do it right. Especially an old antique like a w123. I'm all for custom tools and stuff but with something like that, do it right and spend the money on the right tool.
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Only because pretty much everyone on here says they use a drill bit and not a reamer
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