Stuck & Stripped Striker Plate Bolts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

will_t · #1 04-16-2018, 07:25 PM

I have an 85 300TD with worn out door striker plates (they're more like receptors) and some of the bolts are stripped. That is, the part where the hex socket goes in is stripped, making it impossible to turn the bolts. Anyone have any suggestions? These strikers really need to be replaced but I can't get the bolts out.

Thanks!

Clemson88 · #2 04-16-2018, 08:04 PM

Sure. If you can get one bolt out then select a drill bit just slightly larger than the threads. Before you start drilling with that I suggest a couple smaller bits to create a pilot hole. Putting dish washing liquid on the bits will keep them cool which makes the bit last longer and prevents breaking the tips.

You will need to drill into the metal frame of the strike before you can get the bolt heads to break loose. After you remove the heads you'll probably be able to turn the bolt with your fingers unless your car is a rust bucket. In that case use some lube to saturate the remainder of the bolts.

Don't be impatient and mess up what's left of the bolt after you get the strike off the car. Drill square and straight with the first pilot hole and you won't have to struggle with the drilling after that. Don't force the bits, let them do the work and oil them with the soap often and completely.

Here's the parts you need to repair the strikes. It's quick and simple.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Mercedes-R107-W115-W123-W126-Left-and-Right-Door-lock-REPARE-KIT-X4-pcs/253557079513?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3D8106d1f2361544c 8bfdb72a26ad3f94f%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D253482959151%26itm%3D253557079513&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

leathermang · #3 04-16-2018, 09:20 PM

I think I posted pictures of my drilling out some of mine...
I think that as soon as you get to the car all the pressure is off the bolts and they come right out..
I think I used a drill bit slightly larger than the hex opening..
Somewhere in the archives they should be sitting.. if it was not before the hard drive failure or in a thread that TxBill started and deleted...
The ' nut ' on the back side is a plate.. I don't know if it can drop down inside the cavity or not.. I do not remember.. but
OH... and use a left hand drill bit...

RhodeIslandRed · #4 04-16-2018, 09:30 PM

These bolts are difficult in part because there is a relativelt large contact between the tapered underside of the bolt and the tapered hole in the plate itself. The bolts also have blue threadlock if I'm not mistaken.

I've heated the the bolt heads and then used a hand powered impact driver with quite good success. The couple that were a problem still came out using a Snap-On internal bolt remover in the stripped bolt Allen head.

leathermang · #5 04-16-2018, 09:41 PM

They are easy to drill out...
and old enough one probably would not want to reuse them...
everyone should try it once...

barry12345 · #6 04-17-2018, 09:23 AM

For what it is worth. I found a video by Ken Bergsma interesting on these bolts. Basically he claims the hex hole is too shallow. So it shows him drilling in about another 1/4 inch. Then driving the hex key in deeper. Seems to work for him.

Never tried this approach myself. Will look up his video to make sure I remember all the details before I go at those bolts next time. As they have proved problematic for me in the past. He does this on all of them. That makes sense as they do like to strip. I actually find some of his ideals interesting.

You do not have to buy his tools or whatever. It also did occur to me that all he really is doing is trying to make a dollar. That is what our system is all about. So that should not be held against him. I would rather a beginner have a look at his brake videos on these cars for example before attempting them.

He knows you can copy some of his specialty tools. Before removing the securing ring for the pre chamber for example. Investigate the tool he produces. Two things come to mind. It is a clever design and will work without lifting back out of the ring. This damaging the integrity of the slots. Nobody else Has thought of this to my knowledge. . His tool essentially locks the two parts together so the tool cannot move upward or tilt at all. Should leave no evidence behind that you worked on them at any time.

My main observation is he is an aid for those that have never worked on cars before to get started. Plus even on occasion comes up with approaches that can help those that have.

I used to ignore his videos etc and this is not a plug he has asked for. I have never purchased anything from him yet either. At the same time he has some oem items he is having reproduced by the original manufacturers. That may not be available anyplace else.

Again he makes a dollar. At the same time if a part is critical you want a reliable replacement. Rather than risking an aftermarket part. A couple of those items are just no longer available from Mercedes but are fairly high volume items. Where the aftermarket parts available instead have real questions.

Over time I just thought who else is actually this helpful when flushing your wallet? Other than this site in many ways.

t walgamuth · #7 04-17-2018, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RhodeIslandRed

These bolts are difficult in part because there is a relativelt large contact between the tapered underside of the bolt and the tapered hole in the plate itself. The bolts also have blue threadlock if I'm not mistaken.

I've heated the the bolt heads and then used a hand powered impact driver with quite good success. The couple that were a problem still came out using a Snap-On internal bolt remover in the stripped bolt Allen head.

used a hand powered impact driver with quite good success. I've done this multiple times always with success. Be sure to clean the hex hole out really well so you get the full depth of the allen to twist against.

They are incredibly hard to remove but using the little impact wrench works like a charm!

leathermang · #8 04-17-2018, 10:06 AM

Yes.. a hand impact is a magic tool... many have never seen or heard of them... very different physics from a regular impact since on the latter YOU are still providing the forward pressure... but a hand impact does that automatically as part of it actions..

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=w_7VWoPTJs2WtQXUtKioBQ&q=hand+impact+driver&oq=hand+impact+driver&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.1952.5606.0.9030.19.16.0.0.0.0.486.2556.2j3j1j1j3.10.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..9.10.2556.0..0i131k1.0.w2oqP2ajnYs

t walgamuth · #9 04-17-2018, 10:31 AM

I stumbled into mine and found it incredibly excellent for a few specific tasks.

leathermang · #10 04-17-2018, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

I stumbled into mine and found it incredibly excellent for a few specific tasks.

Motorcycle mechanics.. dealing with little phillips heads in aluminum need them early in their careers.... Once you have messed up the head things really get bad fast...

HERE IS THE PROBLEM... from Quora... look at that first sentence... yikes..

'''''''Phillips screws strip easily, and this is actually by design: early manufacturing equipment had no controls for torque. A machine's bit would simply disengage and ruin the screwhead when it started to overtighten and this appealed to companies because screws and bits are cheap compared to ruining whatever finished product they were making by overturning the screws. Even though modern industrial robots have precise control over how far they turn screws and bolts, the #2 Phillips head screw became the norm and we're now stuck with it.'''''

That is why one needs help with the pushing part of trying to get some types of bolts and screws loosened....

RhodeIslandRed · #11 04-17-2018, 01:35 PM

One of the other benefits of the hand impact tool is they are quite inexpensive, the chain auto parts stores usually have them for less than $15 for the set, Driver with 3'8" square drive, a 5/16" hex adapter and a couple each of slotted and Philips screw inserts. I learned about their value a couple decades ago when removing a door off a VW bug in a junk yard, three large Philips head bolts in each hinge.

This tool is helpful when removing any Allen head bolts such as the ones securing the pulley to the balancer and the 8 mm bolts to the motor mounts from the underside.

It's a good practice to keep an eye on your Allen keys that their outside dimensions don't get too worn and rounded when dealing with problematic bolt heads, the easy solution if that does happen it to just cut off a 1/4" of the worn end portion and you're quickly back to new condition.

With regard to Philips head screws elsewhere on vehicles I've found that a great strategy is to whenever you can get a good fitting screwdriver for the screw and give it a short sharp hit straight on before you ever try to turn it. I suspect this punching effect helps to breakup any corrosion between the screw and whatever it's threaded from the physical shock to the materials. Another "trick" an old mechanic I once worked for was to after using Kroil or PB Blaster or the like soaking for a while or giving it a shock wack always try to turn the screw tighter first. That way if it starts stripping you aren't destroying the screw slot in the reverse direction on the first try! Very often you can tighten the screw just a smidge and break the initial bond free, then it will be quite a bit easier to back out and remove. If it starts to bind up as you're removing it reverse direction a bit and add a spritz of Kroil to wash away corrosion material ground between the threads. Plenty of time you'll find the screw threads pass through whatever they're securing and the threads protruding completely through will be more corroded than the treads in the material making removing the entire screw more difficult the closer it gets to coming completely free.

t walgamuth · #12 04-17-2018, 01:54 PM

I paid like $3 for mine at someplace cheap like tractor supply.

barry12345 · #13 04-17-2018, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

I paid like $3 for mine at someplace cheap like tractor supply.

I have read all the posts so far. Perhaps the climate in any given area. Makes some difference to them being more or less stubborn . Not that they ever seem really easy.

My small impact tool was reasonable at the time as well. Although not as inexpensive as yours. Many of these simple but reasonably durable tools are expensive now in Canada.

Since Princess auto. Our Canadian national equivalent of
harbor freight. Have substantially increased their prices in the last few years. You can now get equal or better quality from other smaller chains much cheaper.

SD Blue · #14 04-17-2018, 04:24 PM

I found that drilling them out was even easier than using my hand impact driver. The screws are of such soft metal that it takes only a few minutes to drill the heads off and then they turn by hand. And I literally mean "by hand".

leathermang · #15 04-17-2018, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD Blue

I found that drilling them out was even easier than using my hand impact driver. The screws are of such soft metal that it takes only a few minutes to drill the heads off and then they turn by hand. And I literally mean "by hand".

I agree.. and IF you are using a left hand drill bit it will unscrew itself before you know it... once the pressure is off the cone part.. unless they are rusted inside...and none of mine have been... drilling is the easiest way to get them out..
I guess we should give the specs for replacements before we quit this thread.. LOL