1984 W126 Steering Wheel Removal Help
 

So ... last weekend I attempted to remove my steering wheel to replace a broken turn signal. I had 10mm allen attachement on a 27" break away bar and IMMEDIATELY ... upon rotation the allen turned through the hole and stripped the opening. UGH...I am fit to be tied. :mad:

According to MB, this requires 58 lbs of torque to remove. That's quite a bit. How the heck am I going to remove this now, and I can't even fathom why MB engineers thought to use an allen fitting over a bolt on something like this that requires so much torque.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
Noivice@Best

You must not have had the allen bit seated all the way in the hole. Breaking it loose the first time requires a fair bit of force, it helps to have a helper hold the wheel so it isn't forcing against the steering lock.

MB used (still uses?) the tapered bolt because it resists working loose.

Try hammering the bit into the head deeper and try again. The hammering action can help break the bolt loose, and forcing the bit deeper may get you to an area you haven't mangled. If you can't get it out, you'll probably need to get an easy-out or bolt remover big enough to fit that hole.

EDIT : X2 on what Diseasel said.

If you can't remove the bolt with your 10mm hex socket,
then:


Hammer in a (sacrificial) solid one piece impact socket (a 7/16 hex or a T55 torx should be about the size you need) into the damaged recess of the allen head bolt.
Harbor Freight sells impact socket kits for just under $30.

Use a manual impact driver with a big hammer, or use your breaker bar with a pipe extension to incease your leverage.
With the breaker bar method, use a short socket extension so that the breaker bar clears the steering wheel and is always at 90 degrees to the impact socket when you attempt to remove the damaged bolt.

Obviously, replace the damaged bolt with a good one.

Heat works a treat on those bolts. Softens the thread locker. Use a pencil torch to reach through without damaging the wheel trim. Doesn't take much at all.

Before replacing that bolt, try to get as as much of the thread locker compound off of the new bolt as you can. The tapered head gives plenty of contact surface so that bolt will NEVER back out by itself. Thread locker is vast overkill.

The hole is no more than 1/4" in deep; that is a fact. For something that requires 58lbs. of torque per sq. in. that is not deep enough for any hex fitting.

I'm going to try your recommendation @Alec300SD. I'm going to heat it with a torch, and then try the 7/16 fitting. The question remains though, once I get it out, "I won't be able to use that same fitting. Can you buy these anywhere new?

Call a Mercedes dealer or go to the yard. Shipping will be more than the bolt. It may be easy to find once you have the PN.

Getting these bolts out is the same as the striker bolts in the door. Also, I don't know that the FSM calls for locktite. Look it up before reinstalling.

MB Part number: A 126 990 03 12.
No shipping charges if you order at the dealership parts department.
Bought one for 'Rena 2.0' long ago, IIRC it comes with blue locktite on the threads when purchased from the dealer.

BTW you may need a helper to counterhold the steering wheel with the key in accessory position (to disengage the steering lock).
Alternatively, if no helper is readily available, turn the steering wheel 90 degrees and immobilize it with a stout strap/rope connecting the steering wheel to the brake pedal.
You don't want to damage the steering lock mechanism.

Yes it is a shallow hole, yes it is a lot of torque for said hole. However, they DO come out, routinely in fact. What gets them chewed up is having the bit not fully seated in the hole or torquing at an angle to the hole. Holding the bit perpendicular to the direction you're turning requires 2 hands, one to wrench, one to support the breaker head. That's why you need a helper or a strap to hold the wheel for you.

At this point, get the bolt out with whatever means necessary, then replace with a new one. It *WILL* come out. Once you get the friction off the tapered face, it will thread out by hand.

it helps to be sure the shoulders on the bit are square and not rounded.

I had the same problem and the final solution I had to drill it to the tapered surface.

Once you see how these are designed you will wonder why they spec so tight, but. “Belt and Suspenders” I suppose.

THe first time you remove the wheel the easiest way to remove is to use a cordless impact driver— someone in your world must own one. Even dog eared bolts will pop right off. THese are one time use only, and you need a new one, so order it now.

That DID not work well at all. Tried the impact wrench with the larger size hex (7/16) hammered in by a weight hammer. It felt tight, but as soon as I pulled the trigger it stripped the head completely. It's literally a circle. Had a friend holding the steering wheel the entire time with the car in neutral. ZERO ... percent chance of getting it out with any type of wrench.

See Image: https://imgur.com/a/yvO4y5W

What are your thoughts? I don't even know where to BEGIN with drilling this out. Any recommendations?

You did not use heat as recommended.

Now, you may want to weld a hex head bolt into the rounded socket.

Friend, there are lots of recommendations here.

I did use JB Weld on the hex and let it settle for 24 hours prior to trying. It did nothing.