Lift pump rebuild components (2018)
 

Been poring over the archives chasing defunct p/ns and obsolete kits, doing my best to determine what I'll need in order to rebuild/refresh my 81 240D's lift pump.

So far:

1.)000-090-02-10-MBZ (2 plastic valves, 2 springs and 2 crush washers)
2.)003-997-82-45-MBZ (Tiny rubber gasket/seal ring)
3.)001-074-22-80-MBZ (lift pump gasket to IP)

Maybe:

4.) 000-090-01-10-M14 OR 1-587-010-532-INT (fuel pump check valve)
not sure if this usually needs replacing...
5.) 0009934801 (Spring behind 30mm nut/ could be the 300d's spring #)
6.) Crush washer or internal gasket (???) for whatever's behind 30mm nut

Anyone done this refresh and able to confirm what parts I need?

After driving, I have noticed some wetness on top of the pump which could be coming from any number of things. Otherwise, no real issues to report, merely preventative maintenance.

If you can find the kit, I suggest just buying the kit.

The only kit I can find has the two plastic valves and their springs and crush washers. From what I can tell, the kit is no more, which is why I'm trying to assemble my own.

Mark -is this a kit that works? dgk-301
Just found an old post of yours...

I believe that's the kit I've used in the past. The lift pump on these vehicles is just a standard Bosch lift pump, used on everything back in the day, be it heavy equipment or passenger cars.

Yes, that's it. They are NLA BUT -- you can find left over stock if you keep looking. I strongly suggest you take that route. For example, a year or two ago I found a bunch of those kits and the year prior around 3 dozen. They are out there.

BTW -- did you send me your 2nd set of injectors ?

The only thing not part of the kit is the gasket itself but you can get those gaskets anywhere for around $5 to $7 bucks to include shipping.

maybe ask squiggle dog to see if he has the orings you need.

I just bought this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gasket-kit-to-fit-Bosch-Supply-Pumps-ADS-DGK-301/173039217192?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D51377%26meid%3Dce5e2cb4682a48 1a8794784dda0388c2%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D173039217192%26itm%3D173039217192&_trks id=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae3b52151-4734-11e8-99e2-74dbd180116d%7Cparentrq%3Af43190de1620a9c4ce724bf2fffadc07%7Ciid%3A1

Seems to come with the gasket!

Mark, will head to the post tomorrow morning.

Good kit. It even comes w/ an O-ring for the actuation rod (several sizes). The kit I bought on ebay a few years ago (same price or more) didn't have the gasket or O-ring. I used a Viton O-ring from my HF kit. You need an O-ring pick (or similar) to pick the O-ring out of the rod hole. If it leaks, you will get diesel into your crankcase oil. Unlikely the copper seals would start leaking, since they don't degrade. More likely, your hand pump is leaking or the fuel is dripping down from the injectors or tubes.

Thanks Bill - I was hoping to do this in the morning and don't have an o-ring pick. In your experience, would a long flat head screw driver fit in the bore?

Actually one other question. This kit seems to come with an additional spring, in addition to the two for the two valves. I'm hoping it's the spring that goes behind the 30mm nut but it looks a little small for that. Did you change yours over? Was it necessary?

You could probably pick the O-ring out w/ a very small flat screwdriver or small nail. I don't recall new springs in the kit. The nylon check valves in my lift pump looked fine, so not sure I did much by rebuilding it. I was mainly trying to insure the rod didn't leak into the crankcase.

Got the pump off fine, cleaned the paper gasket off with a plastic scrapper but boy oh boy are those nuts on TIGHT!

Any tips for removing them? I have a bench vice and some scraps of wood but the pump just twists right out when I apply any wrench force.

I'm probably not clamping down hard enough but I really don't hard to go or how robust the pump casing is.

Okay got the bottom valve off but how on earth do you get a grip on the nut on top of the pump to replace that valve? I can fit a 19mm crescent and that's about it. Surely I will be in strip town if I continue....

Right, took it to a shop down the road. The mechanic die grinded (ground?) a bit off the wall so I could fit a socket on... success.
Maybe Hazet made a special wrench for this but this might be the first thing I've come across in w123 land that was poorly designed -I guess by Bosch.

To anyone following this and considering the same rebuild - the check valves looked totally fine but I replaced them anyway. The o-ring in the bore however had shrunk a fair bit. After installing the new o-ring the seal on the rod was definitely snugger. So that seemed worthwhile.