Re-packing front bearings - parts on hand - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #1 05-15-2018, 12:13 AM

Planning to re-pack my 240D bearings which are still on the original grease.

It's been over 10 years since Ive done w123 bearings. I seem to recall that the dust cap and maybe some seal gets damaged?

I'm going to buy the OE MB green grease and do it by mass. I'm assuming the bearings are in good shape, this is really just PM to check everything out.

Are there parts that are absolutely necessary to replace with this job? I may just buy an OE kit just in case, but if there are items I need for both sides I might as well get them upfront.

Thanks!!

Diesel911 · #2 05-15-2018, 12:44 AM

W123 Service Manual
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/?requestedDocId=12265

After 10 year I would guess for sure you are going to need the lip seal for the inner bearing. If you are careful you will not damage the dust cap and it is reused.
If the anti-static spring is still there it will be in the cap or fall out.

When I adjusted the bearing end play (there is a procedure in the manual) by hand I got it too tight and over heated the grease and had to remove everything and re-grease and use a dial indicator setup which is what the service manual calls for.
I am not trying to start an argument ageist those that do it by hand but in all of the times I have had the front hubs off and used the dial indicator to set the end play I have had zero problems afterwards.

If you adjust the end play by hand be sure to drive the Car a block or to and get out and carefully put your hand on the Wheel and see if it is unusually hot. That is how I discovered I got them too tight.

tjts1 · #3 05-15-2018, 01:02 AM

Ehhh yeah, I used whatever grease I had lying around. That was 100k miles ago.

Junkman · #4 05-15-2018, 07:43 AM

Buy bearings, inner seal and grease. Pack grease, don't just smear it on the bearing. Adjusted properly. I've used OR seals and aftermarket. Both worked. Buy brand name bearings.

JHZR2 · #5 05-15-2018, 10:14 AM

Perhaps I need to rephrase.

I merely wish to repackage the original 37 year old grease in my otherwise fine and functional 240D. This is a low mileage car still on its original brake pads and rotors.

I don't intend to replace bearings, just clean, repack, and reset. All work will be done in accordance with the FSM, including dosing grease by mass, and setting the bearing by dial indicator.

I'm merely curious what items (e.g. Seal, dust cap, etc.) will need to be replaced in this scenario. If I can buy minor parts instead of a kit, it would notionally save some unnecessary expenditures.

Thanks!

Zulfiqar · #6 05-15-2018, 10:24 AM

you will definitely need to change the grease seal, If you are very careful you can save the caps - but one wrong blow and you puncture them.

Any disc brake wheel bearing grease works excellent - the MB green stuff is the same as any valvoline/castrol/shop brand - disc brake wheel bearing grease you can buy at a parts store - the only difference is that its a bright minty green rather than a pretty red.

The real issue will be to set the clearance on the bearings - if you are oldschool and have been in practice of this job, it will be a no brainer, if you are not then use a dial gauge or get someone to set the preload for you.

Make sure to use about 60 to 70 grams of grease per wheel as the FSM tells you to do.

Diesel911 · #7 05-15-2018, 04:37 PM

For anyone who is reading this that has never packed a Bearing with Grease by hand I bet there is a you-tube video; although I have not checked on that.

Diesel911 · #8 05-15-2018, 04:39 PM

[QUOTE=Zulfiqar;3812898]you will definitely need to change the grease seal, If you are very careful you can save the caps - but one wrong blow and you puncture them.

Any disc brake wheel bearing grease works excellent - the MB green stuff is the same as any valvoline/castrol/shop brand - disc brake wheel bearing grease you can buy at a parts store - the only difference is that its a bright minty green rather than a pretty red.

The real issue will be to set the clearance on the bearings - if you are oldschool and have been in practice of this job, it will be a no brainer, if you are not then use a dial gauge or get someone to set the preload for you.

Make sure to use about 60 to 70 grams of grease per wheel as the FSM tells you to do.[/QUOTE]

I have an awful sense of humor to day. When I read that I pictured the Police kicking a Door down and finding a Scale with a blob of Grease on it and them thinking it might be some new narcotic.

JHZR2 · #9 05-15-2018, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

For anyone who is reading this that has never packed a Bearing with Grease by hand I bet there is a you-tube video; although I have not checked on that.

I like the plastic bag method myself...

vstech · #10 05-15-2018, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Perhaps I need to rephrase.

I merely wish to repackage the original 37 year old grease in my otherwise fine and functional 240D. This is a low mileage car still on its original brake pads and rotors.

I don't intend to replace bearings, just clean, repack, and reset. All work will be done in accordance with the FSM, including dosing grease by mass, and setting the bearing by dial indicator.

I'm merely curious what items (e.g. Seal, dust cap, etc.) will need to be replaced in this scenario. If I can buy minor parts instead of a kit, it would notionally save some unnecessary expenditures.

Thanks!

If you have a low mileage vehicle on its original brakes... it’s doubtful you will need a grease seal.

I’ve changed plenty of them... most times even heavily used cars with worn out brakes don’t need seals.

The trick is removal method.

I use the jam nut to knock he inner bearing and seal out... pulling on the rotor with a quick action.

I bet you open up the hubs, and will find the grease in fine shape...

vwnate1 · #11 05-15-2018, 10:45 PM

W123's you can't use the spindle nut to pop the seal out it's too large to fit through the outer bearing race .

I use the but end of my 45 year old dead blow mallet, the seals pop right out and the original seals are very good .

Unless some boob hammered them in and they're dented / bent, you'll be hard pressed to find them worn out .

*DO* look on you tube for the correct how to repack roller bearings ~ basically you put a blob of grease on the inner side of your palm and work the edge of the bearing into it, repeating until you see fresh grease mooshing out between the tops of the rollers .

This takes paractice so teach your self on the larger, inner bearing first .

Usually you'll pack 3 or 4 rollers, turn the bearing a little bit and repeat, keep going 'round & round until you see fresh grease mooshing out at the first pass .

DO NOT pack the hub, it's supposed to remain empty to help dissipate heat better .

Look closely at the races working surface after you've wiped it with a clean cloth, if it's brinneled (you tube) it's toast, replace the bearing and race as a set .

Zulfiqar · #12 05-16-2018, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

I like the plastic bag method myself...

the plastic bag method is the absolute best, mush the grease into the bearings while in the bag which already has 70 grams grease weighed out (even an eyeball of the level in grease tube/jar will be enough)

install bearings, cut a corner of the bag, squeeze the remaining blob near the bearings or in the hub.

Clemson88 · #13 05-16-2018, 01:24 PM

[QUOTE=Diesel911;3813057]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zulfiqar

you will definitely need to change the grease seal, If you are very careful you can save the caps - but one wrong blow and you puncture them.

Any disc brake wheel bearing grease works excellent - the MB green stuff is the same as any valvoline/castrol/shop brand - disc brake wheel bearing grease you can buy at a parts store - the only difference is that its a bright minty green rather than a pretty red.

The real issue will be to set the clearance on the bearings - if you are oldschool and have been in practice of this job, it will be a no brainer, if you are not then use a dial gauge or get someone to set the preload for you.

Make sure to use about 60 to 70 grams of grease per wheel as the FSM tells you to do.[/QUOTE]

I have an awful sense of humor to day. When I read that I pictured the Police kicking a Door down and finding a Scale with a blob of Grease on it and them thinking it might be some new narcotic.

It's common in Ireland before and during the St Paddy's celebration.

vstech · #14 05-16-2018, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

W123's you can't use the spindle nut to pop the seal out it's too large to fit through the outer bearing race .

Nope... it fits fine.
Performed hundreds...

MCallahan · #15 05-16-2018, 03:17 PM

I always install new inner seals. If the old ones get hard, they will cut the seal surface on the spindle. Best case is you can put a speedy sleeve on it, worst case is you have to replace the spindle/knuckle assembly.