Sequence of events for oil cooler, oil filter gasket, mm, shocks..
 

I'm in need of doing the motor mounts, shocks, oil coolers, and oil filter gasket. I'm posting to see if my sequence of attack seems correct(ish).

1. Soak the heck out of the oil cooler line compression nuts.
2. Undo the nuts that attach to the oil filter housing.
3. REmove the filter housing.
4. Replace gasket to block.
5. Replace other gasket on the oil filter (anyone know the name?)
6. Reinstall oil filter housing.
7. Loosen mm/shock screws and jack up engine.
8. remove oil cooler line fastening plate thing.
9. Undo nuts at the oil cooler.
10. Replace lines.

Do I have to mess with the tranny lines?

Am i missing something? should I consider some other things to replace while I'm in there?

To do the oil filter housing gasket, it's easier to pull the power steering gearbox. Separate the tie rod end below and the steering coupler above. Don't undo the spline connection as it is more of a pia to get re_centered. Also, try to locate the OEM gasket as it is much better quality. There are a few still left out of there.

I have done many of these, with only lifting the engine. Removing (or even moving it aside) the steering box is a LOT of work for little gain in my opinion. Just raising the engine (you need to do this anyway to replace the cooler lines) gives you plenty of room to get all the bolts out. You might also want to remove the accelerator linkage arm (from firewall to engine). You only need to lift the left side. This also puts the oil filter stand further away from the steering box, than it would if lifting the entire engine straight up.

Was there room to use a torque wrench (oil filter housing)?

If you are going to replace the entire Hose assemblies one of our member suggested that the to prevent the possibility of the threads from being stripped off (which happened to me) you could cut a slot lengthwise across the Nut (see the picture) and stick the blade of a screwdriver in to that slot, twist and spread the nut apart. Or I suppose you could cut a slot on each side and pry off the entire nut.

The job would be done with a generic dermel type tool and a small 1 inch cutting disc.

I don’t recall if he actually did that or not but no one else has tried it that I can remember reading.

Note that the hose line nuts don't seal on the threads but on the tapered end face of the nipple.

On the oil filter end to hold the fittings between the Oil Cooler Line Nut and the Oil Filter Housing you will need to thin a wrech head unless you happen to have one that fits.

I used a large crowsfoot type wrench on a breaker bar to get at the Hose Nuts on the Oil Filter end of the Hoses.

Not sure, didn't use a torque wrench. When someone works on cars every day, they get a feel for the right amount of torque needed for a particular fastener. I suppose if I worked for a factory authorized shop or a dealer, I would be required (expected) to do it by the book. However, I do use a torque wrench for things like head bolts, flywheel bolts etc.

Dealer Dayze
 

Thanx for the laugh Rich ~ when I was a Dealer slave I noticed all the others apart from our in house tranny guy, short cutted every job to the bone, I got hassled by management for doing things correctly .

Few dealer mechanics seem to take pride in their works, they're all about flat rating as much as possible and making mondo ca$h .

You're right, a Journeyman Mechanic learns the proper feel of tightening .

I always use a torque wrench on heads and other critical fasteners but not for general works .