240D - the saga continues; locked up engine - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WhiteShadow · #46 05-23-2018, 11:56 AM

Nice video of this procedure on youtube, 'Vito's Garage" under his playlist "Project Mercedes W123" (I'm an old guy and do not know how to link videos)....even shows him using the crimp tool at the end.

frictionshifter · #47 05-23-2018, 12:02 PM

Chain was oily.

I pulled the vacuum pump - it looks fine. (I've attached a pic - let me know if anything looks off.) Also, am I correct that this is not the older style pump? I figure I will do an exploratory to check the diaphragm just in case.

At this point I'm thinking I need to order a timing chain. Once that comes in, drop the oil pan, and feed the new chain on. Other than appropriate gaskets, crimping tool, is there anything else I might need?

I am a little curious how exactly I am getting the old chain out. It clearly broke off and is now sitting at the bottom of the crank. Can I fish it out once I drop the oil pan?

BTW - thanks for all the help here. Next time anyone is in St. Augustine, I owe you a beer or coffee.

ROLLGUY · #48 05-23-2018, 04:05 PM

Use a strong magnet on a stick (magnetic pick up tool) to get the end of the chain. Once you have it loose, the crank should be able to turn. Again, with the new chain linked to the old, turning the crank clockwise, the old chain will pull the new one around all the gears. Once you get to where both ends are together on the top of the cam timing gear, crimp on the new link. Then you can remove the gear and time it with the crank. This is a lot easier than trying to get the crank and cam gears timed before crimping. Your vac pump looks fine. You have the newer style piston type.

Sugar Bear · #49 05-23-2018, 05:20 PM

I had to drop the upper oil pan to free the chain, it was really bound up. Also had to drop the upper pan to repair the crack in it from the chain jamming between the crank gear and the pan.

Working the chain through with the upper pan off was not too difficult.

Clemson88 · #50 05-23-2018, 05:33 PM

I might suggest you check the cam plate on which the vac pump roller bears. It's reported to be an issue on old MB diesel engines.

You've done fine so far. I have all confidence you can get this car going again.

Here is a link to the method of rolling a chain into the 5cyl diesel engine. The outline is identical so it will guide you well.

Sugar Bear · #51 05-23-2018, 06:57 PM

X2 on the cam roller plate...good call, I forgot mine was bad.

frictionshifter · #52 05-23-2018, 07:04 PM

Do the chain tensioner and upper chain guide need to be removed?
When removing the chain tensioner, is it necessary to drain the coolant/remove coolant lines?

Sugar Bear · #53 05-23-2018, 08:05 PM

I'd get the tensioner out of the way for extra room to work and the long rail on the passenger side out to clean/inspect. Since the chain broke it would be preferable to replace the tensioner and all of the guides if it's in the budget.

Good luck!!!

frictionshifter · #54 05-24-2018, 01:10 PM

Chain is up! Quite a fishing expedition, involving two coat hangers and a telescoping magnet tool. I actually dropped it back down twice. And managed to get stung on the ass by a bee while at it. (Enjoy that image over the holiday weekend gentlemen!)

Check the damage in the attached photo. Now I know what to look for in the pan. I am thinking of pouring a quart of oil down the chain housing to flush it out, does that make sense?

moon161 · #55 05-24-2018, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frictionshifter

Chain is up! Quite a fishing expedition, involving two coat hangers and a telescoping magnet tool. I actually dropped it back down twice. And managed to get stung on the ass by a bee while at it. (Enjoy that image over the holiday weekend gentlemen!)

Check the damage in the attached photo. Now I know what to look for in the pan. I am thinking of pouring a quart of oil down the chain housing to flush it out, does that make sense?

NICE!. Before you crimp it, be sure the cam is in time with the crank.

ROLLGUY · #56 05-24-2018, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moon161

NICE!. Before you crimp it, be sure the cam is in time with the crank.

Read post #48.

frictionshifter · #57 06-09-2018, 02:06 PM

Quick update - just about up and running. New Chain is on, crimped, cam timing is set.

Before I finish up - beyond the chain pieces, I found several small aluminum bits in the oil pan. A corner of the oil pan also appeared to be a little chewed up, as did the same corner in the upper oil pan. Any ideas what could have caused that? I assume the aluminum bits are from the chewed up parts. The one thing I know is that the PO had just replaced the oil pan and gasket before I purchased it. We are talking about a dozen pieces, making up not more than half a dime in size.

Sugar Bear · #58 06-09-2018, 05:06 PM

The bits may be from the pan being torn up and from the end of the bolt on the drivers side of the block where it curves outward for the injection pump drive gear. The end of this bolt protrudes into the cavity of the injection pump gear, I think it protects the block from the chain but I'm not sure. The end of it can get chewed up, I'd just remove the bolt and file the end smooth if it is rough.

The chain flying around when broken would cause the gouging.

Have you removed the injection pump, lined up the mark on the front of it and re-install? This will need to be done. The crank 0 mark and the cam - mark sync the valve timing but not the pump timing.

Turn it over a few times without the starter to confirm no binding/interference.

Good luck!!!

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