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  #16  
Old 05-26-2018, 11:30 AM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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You don’t say where you are or where the car is but that isn’t a US spec VIN so possibly the car wasn’t built with central locking.

I second suspicions that you have aftermarket electric locks. Did the locks move slowly or snap up and down? Is there a remote for the locks?

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
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  #17  
Old 05-26-2018, 10:49 PM
1985 190d
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: canadian border vermont
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the aux vacuum pump allows the doors to be locked and unlocked a few times without the engine running. It recharges itself electrically. If you have a bad leak somewhere in the centreal locking it will start running even with the engine running. Its unexpected and sounds horrible. In that case somebody might just remove it. If it were removed i imagine the system might consume the vacuum present in the booster to function for limited number of times.

The vacuum lines under the passenger side rear carpet head to the booster pump you are missing. I would look under there for plugged or missing lines.
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  #18  
Old 05-27-2018, 01:06 AM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charrua View Post
How can I diagnose this? do you think I need to disassembly my doors and start following the vacuum lines?
You have to figure out what youíre dealing with. Remove a door panel.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-190E/05-BODY-Removing_Your_Front_Door_Panels/05-BODY-Removing_Your_Front_Door_Panels.htm

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
02 C320 wagon
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  #19  
Old 05-27-2018, 06:44 AM
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by vtmbz View Post
the aux vacuum pump allows the doors to be locked and unlocked a few times without the engine running. It recharges itself electrically. If you have a bad leak somewhere in the centreal locking it will start running even with the engine running. Its unexpected and sounds horrible. In that case somebody might just remove it. If it were removed i imagine the system might consume the vacuum present in the booster to function for limited number of times.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Sternschnuppe View Post
Huh.
This car has not central locking system from factory.
There is not S.A. code 466 in the datacard. This car came from factory without central locking system.
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  #20  
Old 06-11-2018, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Sternschnuppe View Post
There is not S.A. code 466 in the datacard. This car came from factory without central locking system.
Hey! I have found that the only thing that connects the doors with the car is an electrical cable. There are no tubes, so there must be an electrical locking system, a friend of mine told me to see in the doors...
There must be a central locking unit somewhere in the car I think.
I have checked all fuses but they are all ok... Any ideas?
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  #21  
Old 06-11-2018, 11:26 PM
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Diesel Dandy
 
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Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
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Post Failed Fuses

Remember : when checking fuses, looking at them is pointless ~ you have to use a test lamp and touch the tip to the fuse holders, not the fuse proper as there's quite often invisible corrosion preventing the electrical current from passing .
__________________
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1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD 90K Miles ICE COLD AC ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 426,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Motos /5's SOLD
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  #22  
Old 06-12-2018, 02:35 AM
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I will check today those fuses with a test lamp or with an ohm meter and post results.

For those who asked where the car is: Spain.

Maybe there is an aftermarket electric door lock as you said.. I donít know yet. There is no remote control.

The door lock (when it worked) locks/unlocks all doors when any of the front door keys where locked/unlocked. Or when inside the vehicle the drivers door was locked, it locked all doors..
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  #23  
Old 06-12-2018, 08:22 AM
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Post

Since your initial post said the L/R door was the primary failure point, I'd look there first after testing the fuses .
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD 90K Miles ICE COLD AC ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 426,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Motos /5's SOLD
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust
Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &
Peace Of Mind
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  #24  
Old 06-12-2018, 09:54 AM
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I have tested all fuses with multimeter and they are all ok.

So I have found some cables from front doors and followed them until I found the central locking unit: MES 98031

When I touched it make some sounds, like a relay energizing and clicks from internal relay... I suppose it is failing or maybe there is a cable from other door in short and drives crazy this unit... What do you think?

I'll try to get the datasheet of this unit and test it...
Attached Thumbnails
190D 1989 2.5 can't find vacuum door pump-img_0788.jpg  
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  #25  
Old 06-12-2018, 03:18 PM
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I have no clue in how to test this relay, I'll post some photos for anyone that knows how to... The only thing I can get is that when the relay is connected nothing happens, no clicks. But when I move the harness connector some clicking sounds, so anyone knows if this symptom is from a failed relay? or maybe an actuator failed?

Thanks
Attached Thumbnails
190D 1989 2.5 can't find vacuum door pump-img_0792.jpg   190D 1989 2.5 can't find vacuum door pump-img_0790.jpg   190D 1989 2.5 can't find vacuum door pump-img_0791.jpg  
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  #26  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:55 AM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
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Post

You failed the first test, don't ever use a multimeter when automotive testing as it'l often give false positive readings .

That relay is clearly marked for positive and ground terminals, connect those to power source and begin testing....
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD 90K Miles ICE COLD AC ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 426,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Motos /5's SOLD
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust
Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &
Peace Of Mind
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  #27  
Old 06-13-2018, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
You failed the first test, don't ever use a multimeter when automotive testing as it'l often give false positive readings .

That relay is clearly marked for positive and ground terminals, connect those to power source and begin testing....
Hey vwnate1 thank you for your information, what type of meter I can use for testing automotive?

And yes, I see positive and ground, I already have connected them to power source, nothing happens, can you give me more information in how to test this type of relay?
Thank you.
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  #28  
Old 06-13-2018, 10:02 PM
vwnate1's Avatar
Diesel Dandy
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sunny So. Cal. !
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Post Automotive Electrical Testing

As I said before : you use a TEST LIGHT .

Don't buy the cheapo ones, nor one with a coiled cord .
__________________
-Nate
1982 240D creampuff 370,000 miles
1978 300CD back from the dead&1980 300CD 90K Miles ICE COLD AC ~ SOLD
1984 300CD KEEPER ! 426,XXX miles
1984 Euro 300TD Fully optioned SWMBO's
1974 350SLC 4 speed stickshift SOLD & missed
Krazy Kommie Ural Motos (3)
BMW Motos /5's SOLD
1959 VW #113 Deuxe Beetle, 36hp engine, stock
Junk, Rust
Arthritis, Crushed Spine,Broken Neck&Back
Memories &
Peace Of Mind
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  #29  
Old 06-14-2018, 07:57 AM
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Join Date: May 2018
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Smile

I was able to fix it!
Started to test individually relays, they worked ok, then started following and testing traces for positive and negative, and I have found the main positive wasn't doing contact, so re-soldered again and FIX!

No need to use a test lamp as suggested, only with a multimeter as normal circuit test.

Thank you all for your time and ideas!
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