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  #1  
Old 06-10-2018, 05:09 PM
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Pump removal tool question

I have a 95 OM606 NA with the mechanical injection pump and a 99 OM606 turbo with the edc pump. I want to removed both pumps and put them on the other motor.

I have read about a lock tool for the pump. Do I need 2 of them (one for each pump)?

Do I need any other specialty tools to swap pumps?

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  #2  
Old 06-10-2018, 05:46 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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IMO the locking tool isn’t mandatory. The pump will stay where you leave it without the locking tool. It’s very useful for setting timing. To swap pumps like you described, casting aside why, it would make timing go more quickly to have a locking tool. I don’t think you need two.

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  #3  
Old 06-10-2018, 08:39 PM
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I have done at least a half dozen pump swaps on 60X engines. I have found that set point will move with out a lock.
Here is a simple, cheap, and for me, effective, DIY pump lock: DIY IP timing lock
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
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2006 Sprinter 432k
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1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2018, 09:14 PM
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I have done the same thing making a similar tool using a wooden dowel and a hacksaw.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2018, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
I have done at least a half dozen pump swaps on 60X engines. I have found that set point will move with out a lock.
Having dealt with removing and reinstalling the IP in my car more times than I want to remember, this is exactly my experience as well. The cheap eBay lock will let it move too, the groove in the end of the tool is not wide or deep enough to securely lock the "tang" on the weight. A few seconds with a file corrects that problem.
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
I have done at least a half dozen pump swaps on 60X engines. I have found that set point will move with out a lock.
Here is a simple, cheap, and for me, effective, DIY pump lock: DIY IP timing lock
Greg,

Thank you for the info on the homemade IP lock tool.

I will go make 2 of those so I can lock both pumps for removal.

Just so I am clear I am supposed to remove the plug from the pump where the tool goes, turn the motor by hand until the ridge visible in the hole is horizontal, then install the tool and tighten the plug to hold the tool in place. That sound right?

How would I know if I have the timing correct (or 180 out)? I have never touched a mercedes diesel before.

Thanks

Bob
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  #7  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob535 View Post
Just so I am clear I am supposed to remove the plug from the pump where the tool goes, turn the motor by hand until the ridge visible in the hole is horizontal, then install the tool and tighten the plug to hold the tool in place. That sound right?

How would I know if I have the timing correct (or 180 out)? I have never touched a mercedes diesel before.

That is correct.


The timing is correct if the ridge is centered in the hole. It is only there every other revolution of the engine.
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2018, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
That is correct.


The timing is correct if the ridge is centered in the hole. It is only there every other revolution of the engine.
That you for the clear answer. I really appreciate it.

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