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DIY OM603 head pressure test - head good?
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Well, I got this head from a junk yard. It was removed by others and left next to the car. I bought it not noticing the cracks between the valves in 3 cylinders. May be it was the reason that it was left there. I decided to challenge myself and pressure test the head for fun. I used coins to block all coolant passages with JB weld, block the big coolant outlet by putting a plate there and screw the hose connector back on. Actually it is quite easy to do and spend very little time. Submerge the head in water and pressurize the head to 50psi. NO BUBBLES. It also holds vacuum if I pump it with a vacuum pump. All in all, I think it is good. The only shortcoming is I did not use hot water. What do you guys think? Good to install?
btw: you can notice the cracks between valves if you look closely. It doesn't seem to matter in this case, contrary to conventional beliefs. |
I suspect that under the dynamics of a running engine things are quite different. Remember you’re dealing with 300-350 psi of compression (ideally) and the head is heated to approximately 80 C/180 F.
I think these two factors are what make head cracks leak, not hitting it with 50 psi air in ambient temperature water. My opinion which is probably worth about equal to the $0.42 I see glued to that head... |
The professional is also pressuring the head to Max 400kpa which is about 58psi. The condition is similar except in hot water. I ramped it to 80psi and still no bubbles. I may be wrong but I am comfortable with my testing.
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Cracks between valves = junk. It isn't a question of will it leak, it's how badly does it leak? The pressure in the cylinder is much higher than the 350-400PSI of compression when the fuel ignites.
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Is this a #14 head? Take close-up pics of the space between the valves and prechamber on cyl 4, 5 and 6.
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Visible cracks do not always mean they go all the way through.
It could be fine, but certainly not great, and is way more likely to crack further. Temperature is very important for this test. I would not install it without testing at near boiling temp. Thats a lot of work. |
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Go ahead and throw it on the car and see how it works. At best you'll get some life out of it before it starts vapor locking the cooling system. At worst you'll have wasted a head gasket, time, and money on a POS head. Your call... |
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I understand it is my car, my time and my money. I just want to share my experience on how-to with some improvisation. I appreciate all your comments. |
I'm not knocking the #14 head. I'm running one on my own car. When the head came off for valve work, it was inspected for cracks and pressure tested. It passed and got re-used. I'm certainly not afraid of a sound #14 head and I think the paranoia surrounding them is way overblown.
THAT SAID, cracks are NOT a good sign on the #14 casting, if it isn't leaking now, it will be soon. It's a lot of effort and time to pull and replace the head, not a job to look forward to. |
These are links which show how pressure test is done. As long as there is no bubbles, the head is good to go. It may not be necessary to test with hot water. Please understand hairline cracks do not mean cracked head. One word of caution for any one who tries this. Wear safety goggles. If the glued coin popped under pressure, it can fly anywhere.
https://youtu.be/A26KfDj6wAM https://youtu.be/VJL-hcC_CBA https://youtu.be/x_OHmyTYDBQ |
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Leaking into the CC, it's combustion leaking into the cooling system. That's over 1000psi which you're not going to simulate with a pressure test like that. On my bad #14 head I never needed to top off the coolant yet the hoses were bulging and smoke was blowing out of the coolant bottle. Any crack in a #14 head is bad. This is what a bad #14 head looks like. cyl 4 https://i.imgur.com/e0Y3RKJ.jpg?2 cyl 5 https://i.imgur.com/Fds8gj9.jpg?2 cyl 6 https://i.imgur.com/vy1dBEz.jpg?2 |
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